Trailer braking question

   / Trailer braking question #11  
It does not sound like your controller was turned up too high. It sounds like the brakes are adjusted too tight and are dragging. But presumably you towed it home from where you bought it and didn't have this problem, right? Here is what I would do.

First, with the trailer disconnected from the truck, jack up one side of the trailer and spin the wheels by hand. Properly adjusted brakes, you should just be able to feel and hear them dragging the slightest bit. If they are significantly dragging, then the brakes are adjusted too tight and that is probably your problem. If they don't drag at all, then they are too loose and need to be tightened up a bit.

You should refer to your owner's manual to see how to adjust the brakes. Most of them, there is an oval-shaped rubber plug in the back of the hub that you pry out (I pull it out with a needle nose pliers). Then there is a hole, inside of which there is a star-wheel that you turn. Turn it one way and the brakes get tighter; the other way, they get looser. You can use a screwdriver to turn it, but you will be much happier to get a brake-adjusting tool called a "spoon". It is basically just a piece of metal with a right-angle turn at the end, that allows you to insert into the hole and more easily move the star-wheel. I improvised one myself out of a piece of metal I had laying around the shop. It is MUCH easier to use than a screwdriver. Well worth it, IMO.

Here's a picture of a "professional" brake spoon:

View attachment 281576

Some trailers have auto-adjusting brakes. The way these work is, you attach the trailer to the tow vehicle and then hit the brakes hard while backing up. I've never had one of these, so I can't say much more about it.

Once you have all four of your brakes adjusted correctly, the next step is to hook up your tow vehicle and plug in the electrical connector. With it hooked up, again, jack up a wheel and see if it spins freely. If there is a malfunction in your wiring, simply hooking up the truck may cause the brakes to actuate.

Finally, have someone press the manual activation lever on the controller and confirm that the brakes lock up and you cannot turn a wheel by hand.

With regard to adjusting the controller's strength, this is a "feel" thing. IMO, if you are locking up your wheels, that's too much. What I pay attention to is, when I hit the brakes, does it feel like the trailer is "pushing" or "pulling" on the truck. If I hit the brakes and I feel the trailer tug on the truck, that means the trailer brakes are too strong. If I hit the brakes and I feel the trailer kind of push on the truck, that means they're too weak. When they are properly adjusted, the truck and trailer both stop as a unit, with no tugging or pushing. This all really only matters at surface street speeds. At highway speeds, the controller is pegged all the way up unless it is very lightly loaded.
 
   / Trailer braking question #12  
The method I have been using is to load the trailer, put foot on brake, put in Drive, grab the controller's manual brake level and apply full braking force. Try to drive forward. Keep doing this until either the tow vehicle won't pull forward or the tires drag (lock). Back off the braking force a little.

Drive it a few miles, using the brakes, then repeat the process. Once the brakes are warmed up a little, they will likely grab differently.

You should do this with the trailer empty and loaded to understand what sort of braking force is required in both scenarios. Depending on your tow vehicle and its brakes, you may need to apply some brake boost via the controller (if possible) to increase the initial amount of braking applied.

In *MY* scenario, I have found that my Tekonsha P3 controller should be set to 6.0 with no boost when the trailer is empty (10k Anderson with brakes on both axles) and around 8.5 with boost set to level 1 when the tractor is loaded. I tow with an '11 Tundra CrewMax 4x4, my trailer is around 2700 pounds empty, and my tractor is somewhere in the 3500 pound area.

If I haul firewood, I tend to haul 5000-6000 pounds at a time and increase my brake level to about 9 with boost set to either 1 or 2.

Read the manual for your specific controller and you should be able to develop a "feel" for it rather quickly. You definitely shouldn't be smoking the brakes, nor should you be feeling like your tow vehicle is working extra hard to stop the whole load.
 
   / Trailer braking question #14  
Ahh have you checked to be sure the connector is wired correctly? Maybe the lights are wired to the brakes and they are dragging all the time.

good point.

I had a truck with a 6 pin and another with a 7.. and trailer was 6...,and used a hoppy 7 pin adapter... seems there are 2 wireing 'standards' and there are 2 wires in the adapter that changes from power to brakes you must swap depending on which 'standard' was used. otherwise as soon as you plug in brakes get powered full.

maybee that was his issue?
 
   / Trailer braking question #15  
What I tell my customers to do is turn it up 1/2 way and roll ahead at 20 mph. Use the manual lever on the controller to try the brakes. If they lock up back it off some. If not turn it up till lock up then back them off about 20%

Once you do it a few times its a feel thing.

Chris

+1

yup!
 

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