Trailer for BX23 and ZTR

   / Trailer for BX23 and ZTR #21  
I think that there are disk vs drum versions of both electric and surge.

Another con of surge is leaks - if the fluid leaks out of a bad cylinder or a loose fitting, you end up with no brakes. I suppose electric can have corroded or broken wires...


I think that boat trailers have surge brakes to help make it easier to sell the boats. It tends to put out the excitement of buying a new boat if you have to wait to take it home until you can get a brake controller installed in your tow vehicle. Some people say the surge is better for boat trailer because the electric brakes would corrode too much when they get wet, but I think in reality they get wet a lot on the road, so I don't see this as being a real issue.

The key to dealing with the no trailer brakes when launching the boat is of course to remember that is the case and to back slowly enough down the ramp to stay in control. It doesn't help that most boat launch ramps are usually wet.

- Rick
 
   / Trailer for BX23 and ZTR #22  
I thought it was due to submerging the electric parts in the water, ie shorting things out. Boat trailer lighting needs to be waterproof. Wouldn't the trailer brakes, if electric, have to be waterproof? Are they waterproof?
 
   / Trailer for BX23 and ZTR #23  
Nik,

I just came across this thread, and don't know whether you have pulled the trigger and bought a trailer.

For my $0.02, electric brakes are the only way to go, UNLESS you are trailering a boat and the brake drums are routinely getting wet. Otherwise, electric brakes with a controller in the cab give the operator the most control (read that as safety). The controller has a slider which can be activated while you are driving to apply braking to the trailer w/o applying brakes to the tow vehicle. When would you want to do this? As has been cited on the Forum a number of times, selectively controlling the trailer just may save your ASSets (trailer, tractor, tow rig) under condition when the trailer goes gollywhompers for any reason. Fishtailing, inappropriate tongue weight, etc. could all cause this, and a gentle application of the slider brake can bring the trailer back under your control, so you can pull over, stop and change your shorts, if necessary.

A good trailer brake website is HERE

We have a 14 foot dual axle, 7,000# rated Aluminum open car hauler made by Featherlite Click Here
It weighs sub 900#. We regularly tow a 3,000# race car and gear using our V6 Toyota Tacoma, no struggle whatsoever. Our tractor is sub-2,000#, so it's no problem either. The 14' length is perfect for both the car and tractor. The loading ramps get tucked into their own compartments, and if you have an ATV, the ramps can be place on the sides of the trailer, to load the ATVs sideways, too.

Hope that helps...
 

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