trailer rear support

   / trailer rear support #11  
If you have stake pockets at the back of the trailer you can insert channel iron in the pockets and weld a cross piece, heavy enough to handle your load, to the tops of the channel. That way you can completely remove it when you don't need it.
Sound's easy enough but does that extend length of trailer and is the cross piece level with deck of trailer?
 
   / trailer rear support
  • Thread Starter
#12  
yes, good point...it should be exactly the same length of the trailer, no more and yes, cross piece level with the majority of the bed. If you load overhangs a bit, it is not a problem
 
   / trailer rear support #13  
Sound's easy enough but does that extend length of trailer and is the cross piece level with deck of trailer?

The vertical channels would be in the pockets at the end of the trailer so no, it wouldn't extend the length of the trailer. But I didn't take it that he wanted to extend the trailer. As far as "is the cross piece level with the deck", it will be as level as he makes it.

Be sure to weld stops on the vertical channels that will sit on the deck so the channels don't just slip on thru the pockets.
 
   / trailer rear support #14  
But I didn't take it that he wanted to extend the trailer. As far as "is the cross piece level with the deck", it will be as level as he makes it.
.
Obovously everyone isn't on the same page with what OP want's to accomplish. My understanding is he want's a temporary way to support ends of 20' poles,lumber,rebar and other items on a 17' trailer with a 3' beaver tail. Since the cross piece welded to channels in stake pockets doesn't effectively extend length of trailer,exactly what does it accomplish? I ask because I like hearing ways of saving money by adapting existing tools to new tasks rather than buying new tools.
 
   / trailer rear support #15  
I think what you may be missing is, it isn't a 17' trailer, it is a 20' trailer with 17' of deck and a 3' beaver tail. If the support is put at the end of the trailer, meaning at the bottom of the beaver tail, it effectively lets him support 20' long items.

Or maybe I am misunderstanding.
 
   / trailer rear support #16  
I think what you may be missing is, it isn't a 17' trailer, it is a 20' trailer with 17' of deck and a 3' beaver tail. If the support is put at the end of the trailer, meaning at the bottom of the beaver tail, it effectively lets him support 20' long items.

Or maybe I am misunderstanding.
I missed the fact beavertail had stake pockets,non of my trailers ever had pockets on the beavertail. Now I'm with you.
 
   / trailer rear support #17  
I think what you may be missing is, it isn't a 17' trailer, it is a 20' trailer with 17' of deck and a 3' beaver tail. If the support is put at the end of the trailer, meaning at the bottom of the beaver tail, it effectively lets him support 20' long items.

Or maybe I am misunderstanding.

that's how I interpreted it, 17' 3' dove tail wants to be able to haul something longer than 20' and it not follow the contour of the trailer . The stake pocket is a good idea also but My idea comes from using a T frame bed extender on my truck They will support quite abit of weight
 
   / trailer rear support
  • Thread Starter
#18  
you are all very helpful...yes 17' of flat deck..3' of beavertail..i just wanted something at the end of the trailer to help support a 20 ' load...i can weld up something to fit in the stake pockets...and the cross piece will be level with the flat section of deck... thank you all
 
   / trailer rear support #19  
Also weld on a couple of short verticals extensions on TOP of your new cross piece. Space the verticals ones on top to match the distance apart the stake pockets are running down the side. When not using the cross piece it would be safely carried out of the way and could be used as a guard rail or side board
 
   / trailer rear support #20  
Another way to accomplish the same thing is to weld that receiver hitch on the back of the trailer just like you were going to use it as a receiver hitch to pull a tandem trailer. Then, using a male end, weld an upright end that goes up (90*) to the desired height and put a T at that level. This will allow the support for the longer loads (within reason) and also will allow the operator to put a male part with ball if he decided to pull tandem trailers. Have seen this before and it makes for a quick change over and works well. Just be sure to have trailer wiring plug in there for additional lighting. Have my goosenecks set up with that plug at the *** end of the trailer for just that task.

Quite frequently, I'll plug into it with magnetic lights just to have an extra layer of visibility. Both DOT and State Troopers appreciate that. ;)

Edited: Depending on what you're hauling, it wouldn't hurt to have outrigger legs at the ends of that T bar for additional support. I'd have to actually see it to give further advice.

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