Buying Advice Trailer sizing for truck

   / Trailer sizing for truck #1  

RugerSAfan

New member
Joined
May 15, 2020
Messages
23
Location
S.W. Michigan
Tractor
Scag TT2
I'm on the fence between a Kubota L2501 or Kubota L4701.

One of my concerns is whether my current truck can adequately pull a L4701 tractor with loaded tires, loader and at least one large attachment to my other property 3 1/2 miles away.

Truck info:
2017 F150 V8, Crew Cab w/ 157' bed, 1.73 ratio

Off door sticker:
Payload: 1,793 lb
GWR: 7,050 lb
Rear GAWR: 3,800 lb

Per Ford website:
GCWR: 16,200 lb
Max Trailer Load w/ WDH: 10,800 lb

I have limited experience with trailers except for cargo trailers, and am willing to surrender my man card by admitting I rely on Ford "Backup Assist". :)

Can my truck safely transport the L4701 et al? What is the max weight I should safely carry? Does the weight include the trailer weight? I do NOT want to have to get a larger truck!

I look forward to your insight, as I don't really understand the #'s, and the trailer dealer said "you'll be fine!", and I know how some sales guys are.... (no offense to you folks in sales...)
 
   / Trailer sizing for truck #2  
You are probably looking at a max of 6500#weight for tractor ,loader,tires and 1 implement. That is a bit much for a normal 7500# trailer. It puts you over maybe 1000-1200 lbs. I would not worry about it for 3.5 mile trip. Your truck should be fine. If you want to be legal, you will need a 10,000# trailer.
 
   / Trailer sizing for truck #3  
I'm on the fence between a Kubota L2501 or Kubota L4701.

One of my concerns is whether my current truck can adequately pull a L4701 tractor with loaded tires, loader and at least one large attachment to my other property 3 1/2 miles away.

Truck info:
2017 F150 V8, Crew Cab w/ 157' bed, 1.73 ratio

Off door sticker:
Payload: 1,793 lb
GWR: 7,050 lb
Rear GAWR: 3,800 lb

Per Ford website:
GCWR: 16,200 lb
Max Trailer Load w/ WDH: 10,800 lb

I have limited experience with trailers except for cargo trailers, and am willing to surrender my man card by admitting I rely on Ford "Backup Assist". :)

Can my truck safely transport the L4701 et al? What is the max weight I should safely carry? Does the weight include the trailer weight? I do NOT want to have to get a larger truck!

I look forward to your insight, as I don't really understand the #'s, and the trailer dealer said "you'll be fine!", and I know how some sales guys are.... (no offense to you folks in sales...)

So the tractors are approximately 500-700 pds in weight difference from what I could look up. Add at least 1000 pds for the FEL, another 1000pds for the implement and the loaded tire weight your probably over 5k easy and may be closer to 6k. Add the weight of the trailer...not sure what your using as a trailer...will give you your total weight. I have a 10k trailer and load a Mahindra 2645 with FEL and a 5 brush cutter. I pull it with either the 3/4 duramax or the F450 - both bring over kill for the tow weight.

-Chris
 
   / Trailer sizing for truck #4  
Been towing heavy things on farms 40+ years so here's hard won wisdom...

Go to Tractordata website to get the weight of L4701 plus front end loader if applicable. Add loaded tire factor (messicks has a good page with tire size and weights of typical fluids). Add diesel capacity, other margin for accessories on the L4701 plus chains, chain binders on each corner of the machine plus straps on EACH attachment. This is your load weight requirement. Add your weight of trailer and Add hitch to this separate number. Subtract both numbers from Ford's Max Trailer Load number and ensure you have no less than 10% safety margin left (preferably more because sooner or later you'll tow with a load in the truck bed or more gear than you think).

My gut says you get either an 18' or better 20' 10K gross lbs tandem-axle trailer with brakes on BOTH axles and battery backed break away safety brake that recharges via the 7-pin light + brake controller connector to your truck... weighs around 2300 to 3000 lbs empty depending on quality of trailer construction which means you net to 7000+ lbs for the tractor and the goodies above maximum. But you will be smart and not max it out and always leave safety margin (for God forbids like truck brake wear, hot days if the brakes or tranny starts to overheat below Ford's "max" rating numbers, etc.). Once you have a good trailer, life becomes a lot simpler for property maintenance and friends seem to come out of the woodwork asking for favors so be prepared.

Get a drop arm and ball rated for the trailer above. These are rated for 5K, 7K or 10K gross typically. A 10K trailer takes a solid shank 2" drop arm and at least a 2 5/16" ball that's heat treated to cover 10K lbs. Spend the money on this. You're not worried about the vertical tonge weight, you're buying the strength laterally to stop or pull that 10K lbs horizontally here. And check the hitch capacity on the F150 while at it (if it's an after market hitch, this is critical to check, but you may have a factory setup to support 10Klbs already.) Remember, the truck will squat a couple or more inches with the tractor and trailer, so an adjustable drop arm typically on a anti-sway hitch kit is a nice thing to have to adjust the height of the ball here.

Get a trailer braker controller NO MATTER WHAT ANYONE ELSE SAYS. Tekonsha Prodigy is good. Curt models with better displays are good. Make sure the display is clear in direct sunlight as you have to adjust trailer brakes for either "empty" or "loaded" conditions (brakes will lock on an empty trailer if brakes not adjusted down for example.) If the Ford has a controller already, good. If not, get the controller installed or buy the adapter yourself as works best. Usually, the higher the truck trim level, the easier this step is.

If you do anything trips with this rig on highway, get an anti-sway hitch with the anti-sway bars that connect to the hitch ball. It's key for highway trips in wind, 18-wheeler drafts, etc. to avoid trailer swaying, then loss of straightline control. And it's a blessing if you ever have a real emergency stop to keep the truck and trailer better aligned as each trailer wheel, brake and truck wheel + brakes all interact to stop at varying little bits.

Do test drive the trailer empty including backing up and the new binders and chain setups before you get the tractor loaded. It's goofy to do, but it pays off.

When using binders and chains on a tractor, remember the top risk is the tractor sliding forward on quick stops. Ensure the rear binders and angle pull the load to the rear and the front binders pull forward of their contact points on the tractor. If done properly, all 4 tires "squat" once you've tightened her down as well.

Your F150 w/10K+ gross towing capacity will pull the above setup like a champ with the above covered. FWIW, I tow right near the limit on a 6cyl Honda Ridgeline with AWD for my 2025R, loader and 1 or 2 attachments. But I invested in the above and the truck pulls and stops quick and straight. All this sounds more daunting than it is and enjoy learning the tricks of the trade. Then you can share with someone else some day.
 
   / Trailer sizing for truck #5  
Consider firestone riderite air bag overloads for rear suspension of truck. 10,000lb load means 1000 lb tongue weight. They really help level truck when trailer loaded. Put truck in 4x4 when driving tractor on and off trailer in case it lifts truck rear wheels off the ground if ramp trailer. 4x4 puts front axle in park��
 
   / Trailer sizing for truck #6  
You already recieved some good advice. I assume for such a short distance, you will simply tow on the ball, and not purchase a Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH). But if you are planning longer distances, a proper WDH like from Reese is recommended.

I think an 18' trailer is OK for the L2501 but not the L4701. For my tractor, i found that an 18' trailer was too short if I had a loader and a 3pt implement attached like my rotary cutter. I think with an L4701+loader+cutter any 20' medium to heavy duty trailer will be perfect. Remember to center the weight over the trailer axles.

When connected to your hitch, the unloaded trailer adds weight to your truck called tongue weight, and that weight goes up with your tractor loaded. Most trailers unloaded have between 650-800 lbs tongue weight. Add your tractor and the trailer tongue weight could increase to 1250lbs or more. So far that's below your F150 payload. A WDH will move about 120lbs to 140lbs back onto your trailer axles....and off your truck, making towing even easier for your truck.

Don't forget to get chains and binders to tie down that tractor, and always keep loader and implement right down on the trailer boards.

When you get everything loaded, visit a CAT scale and park your truck on the first scale and keep your trailer on second scale to see how everything weighs in. They will give you a detailed printout. Compare the loaded truck weight from CAT to unloaded weight specs from Ford to see what your actual payload really is.
 
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   / Trailer sizing for truck #7  
You already recieved some good advice. I assume for such a short distance, you will simply tow on the ball, and not purchase a Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH). But if you are planning longer distances, a proper WDH like from Reese is recommended.

I think an 18' trailer is OK for the L2501 but not the L4701. For my tractor, i found that an 18' trailer was too short if I had a loader and a 3pt implement attached like my rotary cutter. I think with an L4701+loader+cutter any 20' medium to heavy duty trailer will be perfect. Remember to center the weight over the trailer axles.

When connected to your hitch, the unloaded trailer adds weight to your truck called tongue weight, and that weight goes up with your tractor loaded. Most trailers unloaded have between 650-800 lbs tongue weight. Add your tractor and the trailer tongue weight could increase to 1250lbs or more. So far that's below your F150 payload. A WDH will move about 120lbs to 140lbs back onto your trailer axles....and off your truck, making towing even easier for your truck.

Don't forget to get chains and binders to tie down that tractor, and always keep loader and implement right down on the trailer boards.

When you get everything loaded, visit a CAT scale and park your truck on the first scale and keep your trailer on second scale to see how everything weighs in. They will give you a detailed printout. Compare the loaded truck weight from CAT to unloaded weight specs from Ford to see what your actual payload really is.

I have a 14,000 GW trailer but restrict loading to 12,000 lbs., for additional safety with my K2500HD 4x4 Suburban.
If I tow more than very short distances at low speeds, I use a 14K Equa-l-izer hitch.
The Equa-l-izer hitch is a very significant safety asset at highway speeds.
 
   / Trailer sizing for truck #8  
Truck info:
2017 F150 V8, Crew Cab w/ 157' bed, 1.73 ratio

Off door sticker:
Payload: 1,793 lb
GWR: 7,050 lb
Rear GAWR: 3,800 lb

Per Ford website:
GCWR: 16,200 lb
Max Trailer Load w/ WDH: 10,800 lb

The Ford F-150 can be equipped to tow an impressive weight trailer. However, given the spec's you provide from the door sticker (is that a 2.73 axle ratio?), I don't think your truck has the max towing equipment. Also, you have to be careful in reading the manufacture websites on towing capacities. The devil is in the details. The max on your truck would have required the tow package and probably an axle ratio in the high 3.X or even 4.X range.

To find out exactly what your truck is built to tow, you can take the VIN to your Ford dealer and have them run it. That will tell you what exactly your truck has for options including tow capacity. A good used car dealership may also be able to look your VIN up to determine options.

Having said that, I would not be afraid of carefully making the 3.5 mile tow with the truck you have. That distance begs the question as to why you don't just drive the tractor? Seems to me by the time you hook up trailer, load up and tie down, then unload you could just about be as fast just driving the tractor 3.5 miles!
 
   / Trailer sizing for truck
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I just double checked miles with maps app, and it's 4.3 miles with private road, and 15 minutes via vehicle. My area is just south of Grand Rapids, MI and the growth near us is explosive in last couple of years. Was countryside; not anymore with busy streets and everyone exceeding speed limit. Also requires crossing major highway without a traffic signal. Al though large tractors are on the roads once in a while, I wouldn't be comfortable going that distance with a CUT in a regular basis....

The Ford F-150 can be equipped to tow an impressive weight trailer. However, given the spec's you provide from the door sticker (is that a 2.73 axle ratio?), I don't think your truck has the max towing equipment. Also, you have to be careful in reading the manufacture websites on towing capacities. The devil is in the details. The max on your truck would have required the tow package and probably an axle ratio in the high 3.X or even 4.X range.

To find out exactly what your truck is built to tow, you can take the VIN to your Ford dealer and have them run it. That will tell you what exactly your truck has for options including tow capacity. A good used car dealership may also be able to look your VIN up to determine options.

Having said that, I would not be afraid of carefully making the 3.5 mile tow with the truck you have. That distance begs the question as to why you don't just drive the tractor? Seems to me by the time you hook up trailer, load up and tie down, then unload you could just about be as fast just driving the tractor 3.5 miles!
 
   / Trailer sizing for truck
  • Thread Starter
#10  
deleted due to double post
 
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