Trailer wiring

[ch47dpilot]

Need to replace the lights and wiring on my 3 trailers. Figure I'll need about 130ft of wiring total. Looked at some 7 wire cable on the internet and best price I can find is about $2.20/ft. I can get all the wire individually at Lowes for about $1.00/ft. I'm thinking about getting it from Lowes since some of the trailers don't need all 7 wires and I'll save money. My question is what have you used in the past for sheathing. I don't want to use hard lines like electrical conduit and not a fan of the plastic split loom(water can get inside loom) or using just electrical tape. I was thinking of using tubing, like fuel line, but wasn't sure if it will be to stiff for the section that hangs between the trailer and truck. Just interested in what others have used in the past with success.

 

[GaryM]

If you're going to use the individual wires I'd just use an electric drill at low speed to twist them into a bundle. My Dad and I used to do that years back with a hand cranked drill and it works fine. Get a friend to help. Lay all the wires out full length and straight. Have your helper keep them separated with some cardboard as he moves away from the drill allowing the wires to twist into a bundle. They don't need any sheathing, but attach them to the frame with nylon cable clamps and sheet metal screws into pre-drilled holes.

I'd also use the sealant filled crimp connectors to hookup the lights. After crimping you heat the connector with a heat gun or torch and the sleeve shrinks while the sealant flows to make a weatherproof seal.

 

[Soundguy]

i know you don't like emt conduit.. but I have used plastic grey pvc as a runner pipe, open on bother ends. snake the tube and pull the cables..

check out the 2pair trailer cables for doing 4wire flat instalations. i've seen it sold in rolls.. large rolls. a 'double' would give you 8. use the 7, and have a spare line in case one goes bad. that's what I do.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I used the spiral loom. You can get at auto parts or Lowes. Water should be no problem with a trailer as the voltage is low. Drill holes in the frame a little larger than the wire bundle with loom on it so it does not drape around. I put a exterior cast junction box on the tounge for making splices and used a RV 7 wire umbilical cord for the tounge end. Turned out well. If you have the funds look at using LED lights, they are really bright.

Ron

 

[ch47dpilot]

Ron, going by Lowes tomorrow I plan to look at the loom and J-Box. Could you put some pics of what you did on here

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Sorry, sold nthat trailer after I bought a bigger one.

Ron

 

[SPIKER]

Hi All:

should be able to get trailer cable pretty cheap at local truck stops or farm stores like TSC. flat 4 wire is pretty cheap for smaller trailers you can also get stuff thru Harbor Freight or JC Whitney w LED submersible lights. I bought some magnetic LED lights from HF with 20 or 25' of 4 wire cable.

Mark

 

[Gunny]

I agree with Spiker. The four wire flat is common through the industry for lights, which simplifies hookups and eliminates any confusion years from now about which wire goes to what. Any trailer that needed any additional wires for brakes, winches, etc, I'd use an appropriately sized wire. No need to spend that much on a 7 wire cable since there's some wires in there that didn't need to be as long as the lighting wires.
You say you don't like conduit, but a length of emt running down the middle of the trailer to the axles is cheap, provides a lot of protection and is really easy to install, just weld the hangers to the frame and you're good to go. Once the wires are in and hooked up, just fill the back end with silicone and you're waterproofed.

I really like the idea of using an outdoor junction box on the tongue end, I'm going to have to remember that for the next one I build.