Tram Brake Fun

[woodlandfarms]

So, for the few of us with Tram brakes I just learned a new lesson.

I was working a steep slope and panicked and bogged the engine. It nearly died. The I let the engine recover then began backing out. The steering started jerking and (with headphones on) I could kinda hear a new tone. With all my oil loss I thought maybe I ruptured a hose so I backed up quickly to a flat spot that I knew I could get a truck to and climbed off.

Well, for those who care to know, the tram brakes come on when the engine is turned off. When I bogged the tram brake half activated.

So, anyway... Another thing to look at when things start acting up.

 

[BobRip]

Just guessing, but it sounds like the tram brakes did their job.

 

[J_J]

So, for the few of us with Tram brakes I just learned a new lesson.

I was working a steep slope and panicked and bogged the engine. It nearly died. The I let the engine recover then began backing out. The steering started jerking and (with headphones on) I could kinda hear a new tone. With all my oil loss I thought maybe I ruptured a hose so I backed up quickly to a flat spot that I knew I could get a truck to and climbed off.

Well, for those who care to know, the tram brakes come on when the engine is turned off. When I bogged the tram brake half activated.

So, anyway... Another thing to look at when things start acting up.

Carl,

How did the brakes only work halfway? From what I understand, the brakes are full on or off, and activate when the pressure falls below about 600 psi . If you bogged the engine down, the brakes would try and lock up, but as you regained rpm, and had no leaks, the brakes would release. This could go back and forth as you regain full power. You said something about all that fluid, did you pop a hose somewhere?

 

[woodlandfarms]

Sorry, my engrish not so good.

I bogged the engine low enough so that (unnoticed) the tram brake began to activate. But only halfway. It caused this weird jerking while driving...

nope, no oil leaking... I am getting to the end of the leak issue for the moment I think.

 

[Rip]

The BrakeTender-equipped 18** series machines will begin to "set" when hyd pressure goes low as when the engine boggs down as Carl described. There is a limited range of low pressure that can result in a partial brake set, like trying to drive a vehicle with the parking brake set. Whether partially- or fully-set, you then have to flip the brake handle to the full release position to proceed.

The other machines with the internal wet-disc brakes do not require a manual release step, but may still have a momentary low-pressure zone where the brakes are not fully set, yet not fully released. They would fully release as soon as normal pressure was achieved (unless parking toggle switch has been set).

 

[J_J]

The BrakeTender-equipped 18** series machines will begin to "set" when hyd pressure goes low as when the engine boggs down as Carl described. There is a limited range of low pressure that can result in a partial brake set, like trying to drive a vehicle with the parking brake set. Whether partially- or fully-set, you then have to flip the brake handle to the full release position to proceed.

The other machines with the internal wet-disc brakes do not require a manual release step, but may still have a momentary low-pressure zone where the brakes are not fully set, yet not fully released. They would fully release as soon as normal pressure was achieved (unless parking toggle switch has been set).

Rip,

Is your pressure gage connected to the accumulator pressure or system pressure? If the brakes are applied, can you tram with the brakes on, or is there a circuit that dictates either brakes on or full power? Shuttle valve or something similar maybe. Do your brakes hold on a steep hill, or is there some creep?

 

[Rip]

JJ .... Gauge appears to be reading accumulator pressure....upon releasing brake lever it will read zero until I apply treadle for either forward or reverse at which point it will rise to system tramming pressure.

You can attempt to "power through" the brakes without releasing the handle and it will overcome the brakes to some extent, but it becomes obvious right away. This is dependant on all four of the brake calipers being properly adjusted.....the manual lays out the procedure.

I have had no creep with just the machine even on the steepest hills, but have been able to slide some wheels and roll others a bit when winching heavy logs while parked on a steep slope. I probably could adjust the calipers a bit better than they are.

Overall, the BrakeTender system works quite well for me, but I think I would probably be satisfied with the wet-disc system also, although the swept area is much smaller. I have never had to bring a fast moving (8 mph ?) or run-away machine to an emergency stop with just the brakes, but if I did I would guess the BrakeTender with the larger discs would perform best.

Rip

 

[woodlandfarms]

On the 1850 the Tram brake kills the treadle. Not sure how but there is no juice going from the treddle to the tram pump when the brake is activated. When you take the tram brake up the guage starts to read immediately, wether the treadle is activated or not.

 

[ponytug]

Rip,

Stopping a 1445 going downhill at speed was one of the things I tried at the factory. The brakes lock up strongly enough to wish for a shoulder belt or a 4pt harness. There is an audible "klung", and then you continue forward while the tractor stops.

It is similar to what ensues when you accidentally step on the left treadle while moving forward at a good clip.

Not to be recommended, unless you want to prove to yourself that the tractor will stop you going downhill.

The automatic brakes and their ability to stop a moving tractor were the #1 reason for me to buy a 1445 over the lower HP tractors. I probably should have gone for the 1850, given my slopes, but I have just labeled some areas "no go" zones.

We're in mud season here, and I've had to tip some wet clay out of the 4n1 bucket because it was just plain too heavy. Of course with that much clay, you have to be careful not to end up in the PT pucker...

I wouldn't be out on these slopes in any other tractor, save perhaps an Aebi.

Stay warm, dry, and safe!

All the best,

Peter

JJ .... Gauge appears to be reading accumulator pressure....upon releasing brake lever it will read zero until I apply treadle for either forward or reverse at which point it will rise to system tramming pressure.

You can attempt to "power through" the brakes without releasing the handle and it will overcome the brakes to some extent, but it becomes obvious right away. This is dependant on all four of the brake calipers being properly adjusted.....the manual lays out the procedure.

I have had no creep with just the machine even on the steepest hills, but have been able to slide some wheels and roll others a bit when winching heavy logs while parked on a steep slope. I probably could adjust the calipers a bit better than they are.

Overall, the BrakeTender system works quite well for me, but I think I would probably be satisfied with the wet-disc system also, although the swept area is much smaller. I have never had to bring a fast moving (8 mph ?) or run-away machine to an emergency stop with just the brakes, but if I did I would guess the BrakeTender with the larger discs would perform best.

Rip

 

[Rip]

Well it seems that the BrakeTender either is set up differently between the 1845 & 1850 or perhaps depends on the model year. I guess I better only refer to my particular late 2002 model in this regard.

Glad to hear the wet disc models will bring a moving machine to a rapid stop also. Figured they might, but no personal experience with their internal discs. Knew they worked well as parking brakes though.