Transmission cover removal

[284 International]

Are there any tricks to removing the transmission cover on a YM2000? (Part 16)

I've pulled this part on my YM240 before, and it came off with 4 bolts. This time, it seems to be immovable. It has been immune to a dead blow hammer, blocks of wood walloped with a regular hammer, a putty knife hammered between the transmission case and the cover, hooks slid inside and levered upward with a 2x4, and probably some other methods I'm forgetting.

The tractor has lost neutral and reverse. That is, in those positions, the tractor moves forward when the clutch is let out. None of the other shifter positions correspond to anything other than forward, or locked. I'm suspicious of the shifter forks, but can't pull the cover off. I'm ready to build some hooks to connect onto my engine hoist, but I really don't want to break this cover.

The shifter cover (Part 8 (I guess) here) comes off easily; everything appears intact, movable, with functioning detents and so forth.

I haven't tried the old heat wrench yet; maybe tomorrow will bring me to that.

It's weird. There's going to be some write-ups about this coming, I suspect.

 

[Neat 1500]

it's not dowelled on as well is it? i dunno as i have never pulled one off. i might go and have a looky see at some of hoyes pics.

 

[Neat 1500]

had a look but doesnt appear to be dowelled. it hasnt been tack welded or something silly like that has it?

 

[284 International]

No dowels, pins, welds, silicone sealant, or anything else I can see that's visible. The shafts for the shifter forks are contained within the cover so aren't the issue. I don't know how the forks themselves could be bound up so tightly on gears that they don't come off.

When I did it on my YM240, I pulled the 4 bolts, wiggled the shifter, and it came right off.

 

[winston1]

We used a silicone sealant on big gear reducers where I used to work. That stuff can stick unbelieveable. We had to use jack bolts to break it loose. :thumbsup:

 

[Car Doc]

I wonder if you could drill and bottom tap a couple 3/8 16 holes in between existing mounting holes just down to the case and use a couple bolts screwed in to push it off which is what I believe Winston is referring to also.

 

[284 International]

I got it off, with a combination of a hoist and a mallet. I'm not sure why it was so tight, but it was! The internals were kind of disappointing, and also a relief. There was a broken shifter fork, sure enough:

There was also very clear signs of water contamination and the ensuing rust:

There is a film of something, whether it's an algae growth or what I'm not completely sure, floating on fresh hydraulic fluid over a milkshake of contaminated fluid. You can see the grayish-white flakes in the green circle. There is also ugly rust on some gears, but it appears to be fairly shallow, and shouldn't be a problem once cleaned.

The broken piece of the shifter fork is presumably down in the bottom of the transmission case. I haven't been able to find it with a magnetic probe. I'll pull the hydraulic screen and attempt to reach it through there. The hydraulic fluid badly needs to be changed anyway. I'm hoping to be able to fish it out from there.


The more observant may have noticed the horrible lime green fenders, and realized this is actually a YM240D, but that's neither here nor there, the cover is the same.

 

[winston1]

Never had a doubt you would overcome!

 

[Domush]

If the piece broke from there, it may be sitting at the bottom of the 4WD housing underneath the tractor. That seemed to be a popular spot for broken gear teeth to fall in mine.

BTW- You're not gunna use those gears, are ya?...

 

[Neat 1500]

If the piece broke from there, it may be sitting at the bottom of the 4WD housing underneath the tractor. That seemed to be a popular spot for broken gear teeth to fall in mine.

BTW- You're not gunna use those gears, are ya?...

nah you dont want those ones, they have rust and mould on them........:laughing: