Transmission drained before filter replaced?

[Stackwood]

According to my MX5000 manual, it sounds like I'll get transmission fluid pouring out if I try to replace the transmission filter before draining the fluid. Paradoxically, the manual calls for fluid replacement only at every other interval.

What's the story? Do I need to drain the oil first, then reinstall it, or can I simply screw the old filter off and put a new one on?

Stackwood

 

[rdsaustintx]

Your tranny probably costs more than my whole tractor, but I have changed a BX HST filter without draining it first. I worked fast, and oil didn't exactly gush out. More like a dribble. Took less than a quart to top it off afterward.

Russell in Texas

 

[Stackwood]

Sounds like a reasonable operation to me. Hopefully our filter change will be a similar experience.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Marcussen]

I was told that to put a shop vac in the inlet cap with a rag to keep the transmission in a vacum, then take the filters off to replace them. It should keep the fluid loss down. (I have not tried it yet, but its sounds like it would work). My L2800 drains the entire transmission when I pull the filter, and it drains very fast. My manual calls for fluid change every 400 hours but filter change every 200?

 

[5030]

According to my MX5000 manual, it sounds like I'll get transmission fluid pouring out if I try to replace the transmission filter before draining the fluid. Paradoxically, the manual calls for fluid replacement only at every other interval.

What's the story? Do I need to drain the oil first, then reinstall it, or can I simply screw the old filter off and put a new one on?

Stackwood

The story is, if it's like my M9, drain the oil and then change the filter(s). Drain the fluid into a couple of clean 5 gallon pails and put it back in. Takes 3 5 gallon plastic pails for the M9. I you try to unscrew the filter(s) without draining, you will have a BIG mess on your floor. SUDT flows like water.

I'm not sure if the vacuum method would work. The filter cavity on the big frame tractors is pretty large, besides, I'd worry about compromising a seal somewhere. The seals aren't designed to hold against a vacuum. You don't even want to think about transmission work unless it's a warranty job. Somehow telling the service man that it's leaking because I stuck a shop vacuum in the filler hole don't seem too Kosher to me. Even if you played dumb, there would be questions, I'm sure, about the seal lip pulled in. Let your conscience be your guide. If it was me, I'd drain it like I have many times before.

 

[ozzie tractor]

just have the new filter ready to go on, quickly unscrew the old one and chuck the new one on. you wont loose to much. you can do the same with a M90 (i presume thats what you ment, or its a model i dont know off) but block the trans breather first to slow things down, but you still loose about 2-3 gallons.

 

[Stackwood]

Great inputs gentlemen. Sounds like the most conservative approach, both in $$$ and avoiding disaster, is doing exactly what I was trying to avoid, draining the transmission then refilling it. I need to get some squeaky clean buckets first.

After looking the tractor over again another thought occured to me. I could park it sideways on a steep slope with the filter on the uphill side. With luck most or all of the fluid would be below the filter. I'll let you know how it works. It'll be a while though; I've got 40+ more hours before I need to do anything.

Stackwood