TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH

[Theowegian]

I was told recently by a transport chain supplier that if the tractor FEL has a Quick Attach bucket on it, then the bucket must have a separate tiedown from the tractor/FEL....at least here in Kansas. Guess a few FEL buckets have been bouncing down these rural highways ....! what a sight, uh?

Anybody else ever heard of having to tie down the quick attach buckets separately?

dwight

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The biggest thing I found with straps is there are lots of sharp corners around tractors. I got some cuts on mine )</font>

I use fire hose.. or sharp corners or pinch points. Canvas.. or even cardboard works ok... scrap moving blankets.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Maybee the QA buckets are actually bouncing loose of the brackets? I've seen several different schemes for lock cylinders for the QA buckets.

Soundguy

 

[WALT]

Soundguy & others that replied:

Thanks for your info.
It appears that having each binding device able to hold the full load is the best way to proceed. Some extra care & caution on the front end would be good money spent in the event of a sudden stop or accident.
The background that I neglected to add to my question is that I have been hauling my tractor & implements around on a 16' 9750 gvw trailer for 4+ years now. I currently chain the tractor to the trailer by numerous "D" rings I welded to both the tractor & trailer. I also use 2" nylon rachet straps to secure extra implements to the front deck of the trailer.
You are correct that old fire hose makes for excellent protectors for the straps & chain.
I do tractor work as a part time business, and transport the tractor to 25-30 jobs a year. I have also rented mini-excavators & other equipment that I have moved by my trailer.

The rainstorm turned blizzard in CT. today gave me time to look up the CT. DMV rules for securing loads on the internet.(C.G.S. 14-271) The statue does not specify the 4 corner binding as suggested by some of you, it just states that it is an infraction if you fail to secure your load.
What I was taught on the farm was to chain the front of the machine to the trailer, back up to snug the front chain, then tighten the rear chain using one (1) rachet binder. That gives you the four (4) points of contact.
One of the posts suggested 4 chains & binders to accomplish the same. That is certainly more secure that my current method, but I have not seen that done in my area, except by the heavy equipment transporters. I guess it depends on how much faith you put in your binding devices, relative to your load.
If the tractor fairy brings me the L-39 or L-4630 I've been wishing for, I will consider it.

Also, a note on getting used fire hose. I work as a station captain of a suburban fire dept. operating 5 stations. Surplus hose & equipment generally goes to the purchasing dept. who auction it off. I was able to get some old hose years ago, but these days taking or giving away anything violates ethics rules and can quickly make you an ex-firefighter. That happened to a 12 year fire lieutenant 2 years ago from my job. Besides, it's the cops who eat donuts & coffee. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Firefighters are more partial to cake & ice cream.

Thanks Again:

WALT

 

[RobertN]

I chained my tractor the way you mention originally. My little B8200 is only abot 2300lbs, and sits on a 7000lb dual axle trailer.

I like the Ca rules. From what CHP said, they derive from DOT.

The way I used to chain the tractor, if on chain broke, the whole thing was pretty much loose...

Now, I use two chains. On the front, I anchor a chain to the front corner of the tractor, and pull the chain over to a trailer d-ring. I bind to that. I run the chain over to the other side of the trailer, next to a d-ring. I hook the chain on the other front corner, and bind on the d-ring I just set the chain by. I do the same for the back.

If one point comes loose, the other three will still hold tight...

I volunteered at our local station(St-28, Shinlge Springs, Ca) for a few years. If your picture went in the paper, you better be out buying ice cream

I'm updating my EMT certs right now. Although I do not work Fire anymore, my son and I are active in Boy Scouts and 4H. As long as I'maround all those kids, seems a good skill to have that EMT and CPR certs...

We usually had spare 1-1/2 single jacket wildland hose around that was no good. There's enough wildland activity around here, and single jacket is not too sturdy. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[WALT]

RobertN:

I stopped and talked to the local CSP trooper, who also happens to own and operate an excavator. He stated that machinery requiring a CT. D.O.T. hauling permit needs the 4 independant anchoring points, along with a chain over the tracks, holding it down to the bed. For the load that I originally described, he stated the law does not specify any particular method, as long as the load is secure.

While not required, I will spend the $200-$300 for new chain/binders to keep a $30,000 TLB secured to my trailer.
As a firefighter, I have responded to numerous accidents involving improperly secured loads that shifted or fell on to the street, other vehicles etc. Generally, those accidents were preventable if the operator had taken the time to properly secure the load.

With all the rain lately in CA. hopefully you will get a break from the past wildfire activity you have experienced. That might free up the surplus fire hose supply. I use old double jacket 2 1/2" hose for the chain/strap protector.

Also it's a good idea maintaining your EMS skills, when you are a firefighter or EMT, you're never really off duty.

Thanks:
WALT

 

[willfick]

This is sort of by way of "Remember the good old days." or maybe, "Boy, didn't we used to be stupid."
I started out my working life at ten, 43 years ago, at my grandad's Farmall dealership. When I turned 14 and got a six-to-six learners permit they started sending me out by myself on the old flatbed truck to pick up tractors to bring in for repair. It was the back into a ditch to load 'em style. No winch - if they didn't run you'd pull 'em on with chains and binders, tighten one, tighten the other, one link at a time. At fifty cents an hour they didn't care how long I took.
To the point of this thread; the standard way to fasten one down was lock the brakes, if it had brakes, leave it in gear, and run a single chain through the rear wheels to each side and put the binder on it. A two foot cheater pipe on the binder if we wanted to show off.
One time the customer was there to watch and told me he didn't think one chain was safe. So I put another chain along side the first and pulled it down. That put some slack in the first chain. So I tightened it a link. That made the second chain slack. This went on until the tires were squished almost flat. Customer seemed happy.
By the mid-sixties IH had come out with tractors that were big enough that when you'd back them on the truck from the dock at the shop the front wheels of the truck would lift up off the ground. Some times we'd use two chains on those, too.
Wm