tree scoop

[Tul01]

Build this tree scoop based on a plan from Champy. Thanks for the detailed info Champy! I had the flat steel cut with a plasma cutter where I bought it and "cheated" by using a pre built quick attach frame. I welded up the tubing and the flat steel. It was not pretty, I haven't welded much in the last 15years but it came back after a while. Pretty intense re-introduction to welding - it took 2 days of my long weekend.

I don't know a lot about trees/ tree moving. I tried a couple this morning and it works OK, our dirt is very heavy and becomes super sticky when wet. Of course its rained here for the past week and a half, but I couldn't wait anymore. From what I understand you are better off to move trees/shrubs when they are dormant. Our land is a former tree farm. We are going to be building a house starting in about a month. Where the septic field will be going, there are a bunch of these scraggly shrubs so I thought I would try to move them, if they die they would have been going in the burning pile anyway. Because the root ball is sticky its very hard to get the mud off in one pile or the tree straight. How important is it that these small shrubs are vertical? We hope to be able to move some 2-3" diameter elms as well where the driveway will be and save them as well. Any tips? It think I will sharpen the leading edge so it cuts a little better, took a lot of force to get it through the roots on the shrubs. The one on the left is about 6' and the one on the right about 9'.
Brent

 

[Tul01]

Forgot to attach the photos of the trees!

Brent

 

[sr160009]

Nice job!!!!

 

[Mr Grizz]

Very nice job

 

[Glowplug]

Now all you need is a little mini toothbar to put on the end of that thing and you'll be set! I'll bet it could really dig under those rootballs then.

 

[woodlandfarms]

How much was the steel if you don't mind me asking. I plan on making one next month when I get back home. Only mod for me is making a nice sharp point on the front and maybe reducing the angle of the sides...

 

[Tul01]

I paid 55 cents/lb for the 1/4plate, and about $4/foot of the heavy wall tubing. All together $140.00 for the steel. Had I built the quick attach as well probably about another $30. I didn't shop around for the steel as the guy I bought it from is a friend of my brothers and although he is busy he had it cut for me in only 2 hours after I faxed him the design. I think that is the going rate or slightly cheaper around here.

After my first 2 holes I may have gone a couple inches wider on the bottom, as the hole looks a little narrow, depends on your soil. A slight V-point on the front of the bottom plate supported by a bend or weld may be a good addition. I wouldn't go too wide on the bottom it is not the easiest thing to lift up through the existing roots. The trees I moved I only really have access on 2 sides without wrecking more so they were kind of a pry job vs nice cuts to loosen the root ball. I don't think it would be a problem to move quite a large root ball if you can cut it out all the way or most of the way around. Its raining again today and forecast is for 5 more days of rain so I may sharpen mine before I go back out next week. We'll see.

 

[Champy]

Good Job!

I would definitely recommend grinding a sharpened edge on the front to help in cutting roots/sod - though I haven't tried putting teeth on mine. And as you noted, if you can work your way around the bigger trees to pre-cut from at least 3 sides, they will come out a lot easier and cleaner. Plus, the deeper you can plunge, the wider the hole will be (or conversely you can shorten the depth of the bucket design to achieve this as well).

Also - this bucket design works fairly well to create trenches and drain lines too..........but it's not a backhoe so it requires longer / shallow bites.