tree shear owners

[tpaulson]

Does anyone own a tree shear?

If you do:
What are the features or items about the design you really like?
What about the design would you change?

I am considering buying or possibly building one for my skid steer
and was looking for some user feedback. It would primarily be used to
remove 2" to 6" dia cedar trees.
The purchase price of these range from $2400 to $7000.
If I built one it would be based on the <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.treeterminator.com/terminator2.htm>Tree Terminator2</A> design.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.treeterminator.com/>Tree Terminator</A>
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.midlandindustrialgroup.com/aamain.html>Agra axe</A>
Mightyaxe
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dymaxattachments.com/attachments/catalog/index.html>Dymax</A>

 

[beenthere]

The design likely will depend on how much crushing and splitting you can stand in the 'sheared' end of the log. If you are making a product from the log, then you may want to have a chain saw type cut, rather than a shredded end with splits that run up the log. If for firewood or the like, or just to remove to put on a brush pile, then crunching them off shouldn't be a problem. It certainly takes power to sever wood across the grain this way.
We'll be interested in the progress you make.

 

[rozett]

I would be very concerned about what happens to the tree after you shear it.

Having just had 6 acres clearcut, I spent many hours watching the 36-ton tree saw cut, lift and stack trees up to 40" across. There is just not enough weight or roll cage on a skid steer or tractor to handle a tree after it's cut. So then it falls whichever way it wants.

 

[ns_in_tex]

Tim,
I own a tree shear that is a little different from the ones shown in your link. I don't know how to make a link, but search for 'cuts up to 8" hardwood' & you should find a picture of mine. What I like about it is, it sticks out about 5 or 6' in front of the loader to give more reach, can cut higher, ETC. Also it has power rotation of 90 degrees so can trim limbs off side of tree. Gets you farther away from tree or limbs you are cutting.

I built my own mount. but can be purchased with a skid steer mount which I havn't seen. Does not come with hoses.

Purchased from P & W Engineering, 424 N Harding Ave, Sedalia, MO 65301, 888-497-3224 John Parkhurst
Paid 2233.00 for mine, including freight to East Texas.

 

[tpaulson]

Neal
Thanks for the info.
Here is a link to your old post <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=implement&Number=133017&Search=true&Forum=All_Forums&Words=cuts%20up%20to%208"%20hardwood&Match=And&Searchpage=0&Limit=50&Old=allposts&Main=133000>'Cuts up to 8" hardwood'</A>
That is a neat design. Definately a different approach than the others shears I have found.

Just a few questions.
1. Does it work well? Is it really able to shear an 8" tree?
2. What size cylinder does it use for the shear? 4" bore, 8" stroke
3. Is there another plate that runs on the under the shears?
4. Do the shears rotate on 2 pins that go through the angle iron on the top of the shears?
5. It appears the cylinder or another plate is under the cutting edge which is holding it up off of the ground a little. How close to the ground does it cut the tree off?
6. Do you have some more pictures of it?
7. Does the manufacturer have a web site?
8. How much does it weigh?

Thanks
Tim

 

[tpaulson]

Rozett
I will be using it for cutting cedar trees with a max dia of 6". The entire 6" cedar tree probably only weights 200lbs. Any ROPS/FOPS on a skid steer should be able hold that. If you lift up and tilt it forward slightly when the tree is almost sheared, it should fall away from the skid steer. I was also planning on using a tube frame and some expanded mesh steel to protect the operator from branches.

I agree with you on some of the large shears that cut up to a 25" tree. I think a 25" live oak tree would be a bit much for a skid steer to handle if it started falling the wrong way.

Tim

 

[ns_in_tex]

Tim,
Took a few more pictures today. Will try to answer some of your questions first.
1. It does work well (my opinion). It is really able to shear a 8" tree, but no more. I think I failed to cut maybe 2 trees out of several hundred (shear blades stalled). Never did figure out why, unless maybe a little over 8".
2. Cutting cylinder 5x8 I think, Tilt cylinder 2-1/2 or3x8
3. Plates on both sides of shear.
4. Blades do rotate on pins, pin to cylinder about 12". Pin to blade tip about 18".
5. If ground is soft, bottom metal can be forced into ground to cut near ground level, although on the larger trees, the roots start out above ground level which will hold the shear up, as well as make it larger than 8" dia at ground level.
6. Will post a few more pictures, if more needed, let me know.
7. I don't think the manufacturer has a web site. Most likely a small operation.
8. The way I try to control the fall when cutting, is if tree is tall enough for concern, lift the cutter to max fel heighth, push on tree to lean it away from you, then cut, it almost always falls the other way. Then the 10" stump is to short to reach me.
9. Havn't used this on gear tractor, but I think would be much easier to control with hydrostatic.
10. The angle iron braces you see running to the rear, I put on in place of the chains they recommended & I assure you, you would like the angle iron better also.
11. Unit is fairly heavy, that far in front. Would not recommend on less that 40 HP tractor & would still need counter balance.
12. My hydraulic pump is 9 gpm, but I normally run at 1/2 throttle or less, but wish the pump was faster.

 

[ns_in_tex]

Bottom view of blades

 

[ns_in_tex]

Rear top view of blades & angle iron braces

 

[ns_in_tex]

Power Tilt picture.
I might mention, I have not cut any 6" cedars, but have cut 8" oak , sweetgum & others.
Hope this helps.