Tree Spades

CGranat · Apr 17, 2002

I'm looking at getting a small (20"-24") tree spade for my TC33D. First, I'd like to know if anybody has a tree spade for their tractor and what has been their experience with one. From what I read into the limited information I have seen, I believe I need a power beyond; the spades I've seen all have valves on the spade itself. That leads to my next question, what type of valves are the rear remotes typically? My last question stems from the previous question. I presume that the rear remotes are similar to the 3 pt hitch's position control and that this valve would not work for the tree spade so, how have others gotten power beyond to the rear (a la log splitter)(yes, a log splitter is in the plans but, not in the near future).

EdKing · Apr 17, 2002

The remotes usually work like any hydraulic valve, push it one way, the fluid flows one direction, push it the other way, the fluid goes in the reverse direction. Your rear remotes should work, you will need to be able to lock the remote in the on posistion in the proper direction. My backhoe works off of my rear remote, the remote has a latch to lock it in either posistion. I have heard of some guys using a bungie cord to hold the remote lever on for using attachments. You can also get a hydraulic pump that works off the PTO, together with a fluid tank. This makes the attachment work independant of the tractor hydraulics. The advantages of the pump are greater flow rate if your tractor flow rate is too low, and a seperate hydraulic system, preventing possible contamination of your tractor hydraulics.

RobS · Apr 17, 2002

Can't offer any real help (do I ever anyway?), but just last night my boys and I followed a large truck mounted spade into our neighborhood. Had some time to kill so we stopped and watched. Pretty slick machine, took all of five minutes to pop a large Norway Spruce into the ground. I think I counted ten valves in the control center for the four spades, the stabilizers, the swing away arms, lift and tilt /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

After he planted the tree, he dug the hole for the next one (makes sense AFTER you think about it, probably a good practical joke for the new guy on the job /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif ). Those blades just plunge right into the ground like it was butter /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif

If you come up with anything, I'll be very interested /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Anonymous Poster · Apr 17, 2002

Try going to www.treetoad.com

Darren · Apr 17, 2002

Mr. 3054 has a good suggestion. Treetoad makes a line of manual 3 pt hitch spades. There's no hydraulics which means a big cost savings.

Driving the blades in requires using something like a manual post driver. The 3 pt then extracts the tree. For occasional use they've got the best deal unless you've got several thousand to spend. Hydraulic spades are not cheap.

An unusual design feature is they use cor-ten steel for the blades. It only rusts to a point and then it stops. It's the same steel they use to make bridges that don't need paint.

Another factor that complicates a 3 pt mounted spade is that a 3 pt hitch is not designed to resist uplift forces. That means a 3 pt mounted spade must incorporate something like the downforce attachments for augers to not raise when the spades are extended. It all adds up to a heavy expensive implement if you can find one.

pcmem · Apr 18, 2002

Darren,

Good point about the hydraulic downforce. However all the three point and trailered spades I've worked with haven't needed it as they generally weigh a couple thousand pounds /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif. You just keep working the spades into the ground. One model has a splitter valve for all the points so the one with the least resistance moves first.

I've been toying with a small manual design for a few years. The treetoads are pretty nice units. You can even get a trailer model with hydraulic jack for those who are tractor limited /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif.

Thanks,
Michael

Darren · Apr 18, 2002

Michael, I'm glad you posted. How much trouble is it to use a treetoad when you hit a rock? Can you recommend manufacturers that make a hydraulic 3 pt unit?

PaulT · Apr 18, 2002

I have thought about getting a tree spade, but when you look at the size of the ball required for the size of tree I would be moving, my 2710 barely had the capacity to lift the ball/tree. When you add the spade weight, it is definitely over spec. Even if it could lift the ball, the cost for the appropriate size spade became prohibitive. Just to give you an idea, I was looking to move 8-12 foot trees with 5-8 inch caliper. My memory is a little foggy, but I think they would need a 30 inch rootball. I somewhere saw a guide to weight by rootball diameter (I htink it was some Michigan x-mas tree web site, but I'm not sure). You will be surprised by these weights! CUTs are not really the right vehicle for the job. You sure don't want to undersize the tool, just so it will fit on the tractor!!

Turfman · Apr 18, 2002

Here's what I have for rootball size and weight. It varies with the soil composition, moisture content, etc. I got this from a book on aboriculture, can't remember the name, but the authors are root specialists.

Here's the list:
Size rootball Weight (lbs)
20" 200 lbs.
28" 520 lbs.
36" 1000 lbs.
44" 1500 lbs.
60" 4000 lbs.
90" 10,000 lbs.

CGranat · Apr 18, 2002

Thanks for all your information. I've looked on the internet at quite a few manufacturers including the TreeToad. The size of trees that I'm interested in moving are from 1" to 2". A common rule-of-thumb given is 10-12 inches of rootball per inch of trunk. Thus a 20" spade would be the right size. I talked with a Vermeer dealer, the information he had said their 20" spade's weight with rootball was about 1000 lbs whereas the 30" spade with rootball was 2700 lbs. The class 2 Boomers are spec'd at about 1600 lbs at 24" on the 3 pt. I'd like to talk with someone who's used the TreeToad to find out how hards it is to use.