trimming trees up

[Dutch445]

after mowing this new property for the summer, (or drought) i am going to
trim up many of the 34 trees that we have to mow around. There is a mix
of maples, and pines, (different varieties) etc.
Some of the pines have boughs down to the ground, no problem, i just
mow as close as i can with my front mower. There are many with branches
just at the wrong height, where I can't quite duck under with the mower,
that leave me looking like i got beat up!
I want to trim those trees up a little more so I can mow under them.
Anything growing down to the ground now stays.
My question is about trimming in the fall, is it ok to do? I am only
talking those few branches that are in my way. I can wait till Spring,
if that is recommended.

 

[mikehaugen]

I have heard late fall through winter is the best time, and not right after the leaves drop. I could have heard wrong though.

 

[lockhaven]

no problem, in my youth working for the maryland forest service I spent my days elevating pine trees all summer all fall all winter all spring acres and acres of them.

 

[dave1949]

I guess the theory behind late winter pruning is that there are fewer fungus spores blowing around and active insects to get into the open wound. How the pruning cut is made is really important. Leaving a stub is supposed to invite rot to enter the trunk, but you don't want to skin off a big patch of bark either. I would check some pruning instruction pics before starting.

Those low branches have stolen my eyeglasses more than a few times :laughing: And I have two replacement "Ohio" lights that sit on the top of the rear fenders of the tractor to put on this fall.

 

[ncnurseryman]

It's okay to do, just use good pruning techniques. Prune close to the trunk not several inches out. A quick Google search will elaborate.

 

[Dutch445]

ok thanks,,

 

[bigtiller]

I coppied this from the link. It seams that heavy pruning is not desirable in the fall but a branch or two is ok.

Planttalk Colorado - When to prune trees



Light pruning to remove a few small branches of trees can be done at any time of year. More extensive pruning should be done in late winter to early spring. There are three advantages to pruning at this time of the year.
First, wound closure is most rapid if it's done just prior to when new shoots emerge.
Second, there are few insects and disease spores to infest pruning cuts.
Third, deciduous trees have dropped their leaves, so it's easier to see what you're pruning!
Trees such as elm, maple, walnut and birch are "bleeders" when pruned in late winter to early spring. This oozing sap is annoying when it drips on cars and sidewalks. There is disagreement as to whether the oozing is harmful to trees. It is thought that oozing might interfere with the closure of pruning cuts. Oozing is reduced if these tree species are pruned in the fall. However, fall is probably the least desirable time of year to prune most trees. Pruning cuts close more slowly in the fall than in any of the other seasons.

 

[RSKY]

I am by no means an expert but for years I have removed the lowest limb on every tree in our yard. One limb every spring as soon as the leaves come out. It may take a couple years to get everything trimmed up like you want but there is little stress on the trees.

 

[radioman]

I tend to trim my branches after the leaves has sprouted since the added weight droops them. This allows me to cut where I want to leave tree looking more natural. I take my tractor I mow with and park it under tree and just trim everything so the rops won't hit them.

 

[Pilot]

For pines, prune when dormant. If you prune during the early growing season it will be easy to wound the tree and damage the tree. Hardwoods, prune in late summer and autumn. If pruning dead limbs prune any time. That's from my old (but that doesn't mean it's wrong!) silviculture text book.

Oozing is good--it expels fungi and bugs.

If trees are still relatively small, say 3 or 4" or less in diameter you have a risk of sun scald, killing the cambium on the south or west side of the tree. Prevent this by leaving one or two limbs to shade that portion of the tree. Go back the next year and cut that remaining limb.

Prune with loppers if they will do the job. My Corona loppers with handles about 24" long will handle limbs up to 1" in diameter; after that it varies with the tree--some have harder wood than others. A very small chainsaw is OK if you are very careful, but you stand a greater risk of damaging the tree. A pruning saw is a lot of work, good for only a few trees at a time before your arms are ready to fall off.

 

[Pete Judd]

Outside of my fruit trees, I have taken all limbs that I can't mow under off. Haven't paid much attention about what time of year it was, But I think it was in the spring when I started mowing. Just threw the chainsaw in the trailer behind the tractor, and cut them flush with the trunk. But those where fir and western red alder, and they grow like weeds around here. Hardwoods like you have in NY may be different.