Traction Trouble shooting Safety Start System

[berrymom]

I can't start my 2012 4010 HST. All lights and etc work. Not a battery problem. Compressing the clutch and brakes with shuttle in neutral , rotating the key . doesn't activate. Can anyone explain the "Safety Start" system? I located the clutch switch under the front panel. Where do the 2 wires go? When the switch is compressed how does that complete a circuit and to what? How does it affect the starter? How does one trouble shoot the "Safety Start" system? How does the shuttle interact with "Safety Start" system work? I'm dead it the field until I figure it out.

 

[AchingBack]

Make sure your PTO lever is fully disengaged. Other than that, I don't know what else is required

 

[RJI]

check your ETR solenoid fuse... if that's blown then look for bare spots on the safety switch wire... if you find any just jump it out, don't really need it...
if no bare spots, fuel stop solenoid would be my next check...

 

[oldpilgrim]

Make sure your PTO lever is fully disengaged. Other than that, I don't know what else is required

This is the most common of non start issues.

 

[Bascom]

Berrymom-might be the same prob I had with mine last year. From the thread and my post (with a pic of the safety switch on my 5035) per:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...tch-sterring-tilt.html?highlight=#post3956009

This recently happened to me on my 2010 5035. The "sweet spot" on the shifter was increasingly harder to find and thus start the tractor. I fixed it in a couple minutes.

If your safety switch is like mine, look for it by crawling under the left side of your tractor to view. Have someone move the shift lever from forward to reverse while you look for it and it will be very easy to find.

The bronze colored nut in the pic has a "ball-bearing" push-switch in the center. This is the safety switch. In the picture, the dark gray nipple (shift linkage) is depressing the ball-switch. This is the neutral position necessary for starting.

Mine was barely contacting the ball-switch when I diagnosed it. I fixed it by putting the gear shift lever in neutral and then taking a flat tip screw driver and very slightly bending the tab that holds the ball-switch and nut towards the nipple on the shift linkage (depressing the switch). The pic is after I bent the tab.

Hope this helps.

 

[berrymom]

Thanks all for your suggestions. Tried them all and still no go. I pulled the 2 plastic shrouds off the steering column and found the master brake safety switch. By passed it and still no go. Then pulled the seat and top plate off exposing the LH and RH shifters. No switches on the Left side. Found what looks like a switch as BASCOM described but looks different, not a ball bearing shape. Tried the screw driver wedge trick but no luck. Finally gave up and called the dealer to come and get it. I imagine it will take a couple of days to learn anything. I'll write back when I hear something. BTW I ordered the service and repair manual for next time there is a problem. While looking around I found a broken bolt and stripped bolt from the tractor to the bucket arms. So when the tractor comes back I'll have to disconnect the whole bucket assembly from the tractor and extract the broken and stripped bolt. Both where kinda hidden and not easily seen in the day to day stuff.

 

[kwbretired]

Did you check the seat safety switch?

 

[k0ua]

You start by buying a volt ohm meter. Then learn how to use it. then purchase the service manual for your tractor. Then learn how to read electrical schematics. Then start troubleshooting using the scientific method of "divide and conquer" or in other words is the problem this direction or the other direction. Yes I am being serious, and not trying to be a "smartazz". All of the worthwhile things in life are learned by experience, the rest they put in books.

I wish you the best of luck on your journey of enlightenment.