trouble starting new 1046

[05tundra]

I'm very disappointed in Cub Cadet/Kohler. My 1046 is approaching 2yrs of age and has 26 hours on the engine. After 7-10 days of non use, it won't start. The worst part about this, is that it started doing this within a few months after purchase. The engine will turn over until the battery is dead, but it won't start. The only way I can start it, is to spray a shot of carb cleaner in the carb throat. When I did take it back to the dealer, they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I wanted them to clean the carb but they said "cleaning the carb" wasn't under warranty and would charge me 30-40 dollars. I can't take it back to the dealer again because I am afraid that I will choke the manager. I've been running stabil in my fuel the whole time. Any ideas on what might be causing this? Thanks,

 

[pegleg]

I have the 1046 CC that is only one mowing season old. I have not experienced your problem as of yet anyhow. My problem is it runs to high on idle and the dealer says if it is touched it will void my warranty. I would love to get my hands on a tach that will do 2 cylinder engines to check what it is set at, at the factory. There is hardly any difference between idle and full throttle.

 

[Fordlords]

Yes, there is something wrong, those Kohlers should start up quickly even after sitting a while. Have them check the fuel shutdown solenoid first, then verify the choke is closing, then check the fuel filter and the pulse fuel pump.
The idle speed is a very simple adjustment screw, adjusting it will not void your warranty. On Kohler's website The Power More Professionals Demand - Kohler Engines you can look up and download the service manual for your perticular model of engine to set the idle speed, it should be around 1200 RPM. -Fordlords-

 

[pegleg]

The idle speed is a very simple adjustment screw, adjusting it will not void your warranty. On Kohler's website The Power More Professionals Demand - Kohler Engines you can look up and download the service manual for your perticular model of engine to set the idle speed, it should be around 1200 RPM. -Fordlords-

Fordlords,
Thanks for the manual information, it will be a great help. Now to get a tach and figure out what has to be removed to get to the adjustments.

 

[Fordlords]

There are a few cheap small engine tachs available, one common one is called the, "Tiny Tach," and is an easy find on E-bay. You would need this style:
eBay: KOHLER Small Gas Engine Tiny Tach Hour/ Tachometer R-2c (item 230018352736 end time Mar-11-07 15:43:55 PDT)

The idle speed is not all that critical, and you can really just guestimate the speed if you want. I usually adjust it by taking it down as low as it can go until the engine starts faltering, then turn it up until it smooths out again- basically as slow as I can go where it still runs smoothly. The Cub 1046 will use either a Nikki or Keihin carburetor, but the idle adjustment is the same on both carbs. -Fordlords-

 

[JTKub]

O5tundra, like fordlords says, kohlers usually snap right to attention, given they are started correctly. Full choke, part throttle, etc. Can you see fuel in the in-line fuel filter during the crank/no start condition? Kohlers fuel pumps are very sensative to the type of fuel filters used. I have heard of fuel starvation issues with aftermarket fuel filters. Also, can you get a visual of the choke closing?

Joel

 

[05tundra]

Yes, I can see fuel in the filter. As of yesterday, my cub hasn't been used in about 2-3 weeks. I used it yesterday and it took about 15 minutes to finally get it started (took several sprays of carb cleaner). I know that all you guys are loyal Cub owners but.....I'm not happy. I feel like selling this thing but would hate to dump this problem on someone else. If I take the carb apart, what should I be looking for?

 

[Dave01]

First see if the choke is closing correctly as others have suggested. Just take off the air filter and see if the butterfly closes when you pull out the choke. If this is OK, take a look at the spark plugs. I'd first pull the plugs, check the gap and adjust if needed, put the spark plug wires back on, then touch the threads to a metal engine part while cranking the engine. When you do this hold the plug with an insulated glove or a thick rag so you don't get shocked. You should see a solid spark when you crank.

If you have good spark, re-install the plugs and try starting, using full choke. After you have cranked quite a bit like you have been describing, turn off the key and pull the plugs again. Do they look wet or dry? If dry you have a fuel delivery problem. If they look wet you have an ignition problem.

I hope this helps, its a simple approach that might find a simple problem.

 

[05tundra]

Thanks for the info. But I'd be willing to bet the farm that it is some type of fuel delivery problem and not an ignition problem. The flap does appear to be working properly when choked. I'm no mechanical genius, but if I spray a type of starter fluid in the carb throat, this is what allows it to start. When it's running, it runs like a top. The day after I run it, it will fire right up. The problem I have seems to be caused by several days of non use. I wonder if some component in the card is sticking or something?

 

[keltonkrew]

sounds like a carb issue to me...maybe float?

 

[Dave01]

Whether the problem is weak spark or bad fuel delivery, the starter fluid will help it start. The fact that it keeps running and also will start the next day makes me think your fuel delivery is OK.

I'm no mechanical genius either, I tend to fight my way through these problems, but you can usually isolate it with a bit of playing like I suggested. Fordlords mentioned the fuel shutdown solenoid, could it be failing or have a bad connection? Maybe the points need to be replaced?

I think if you stick with it you'll solve this problem, be patient and try a few things and report back what you see.

 

[dqdave1]

Call Kohler direct; tell them your story and I bet you will get it taken care of.
By Phone:
Customer service is available to take your call 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Call us toll-free at: 800.544.2444

 

[05tundra]

Thanks for all the tips. I will work on it this weekend and definitely call Kohler customer service. By the way, don't ya'll think the dealer should have been willing to tear the carb apart to perhaps locate the problem instead of wanting to charge me? Unless I've been living on Mars for the past few years, I always thought a warranty was what I consider "peace of mind insurance" that the product will perform correctly during that period or the manufacturer will fix/repair at no cost to the consumer. Anyway, that is why I really can't bring it back to the dealer.....I really think I would shove his head into the carb.

 

[Dave01]

I agree with you. A few years ago I thought I had a transmission problem on the 1211, we were planning to replace the tractor that year. I called my dealer and he told me to bring it in. When I said I was worried about spending much money on it he said "bring it in, lets see whats wrong, I'll let you know what it will cost to fix it. If you don't want to fix it I won't charge you." That's a dealer that isn't afraid of spending an hour of labor to help out a long time customer.

So, I think your dealer should have offered to take another look at it. When in your first post you mentioned that the dealer couldn't find anything wrong, it sent up a red flag for me. I doubt your problem is too difficult to find, the dealer's mechanic should identify it in a half hour. Just my opinion.

 

[California]

re the "Tiny Tach" - That one on Ebay was listed at $42.

I got a tach from Briggs & Stratton that was simply a coil of spring-steel wire that you reel out of a hub until it resonates with the engine. Then read the rpm on a scale. It works well and matches readings with the tachometers in my car and tractor.

If Harbor Freight sold something that simple it would be under $5. At B&S it should still be under $15.

But like another poster said, just adjust it down where it still can gain rpm easily. This isn't rocket science.

 

[vtcress]

I'm very disappointed in Cub Cadet/Kohler. My 1046 is approaching 2yrs of age and has 26 hours on the engine. After 7-10 days of non use, it won't start. The worst part about this, is that it started doing this within a few months after purchase. The engine will turn over until the battery is dead, but it won't start. The only way I can start it, is to spray a shot of carb cleaner in the carb throat. When I did take it back to the dealer, they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I wanted them to clean the carb but they said "cleaning the carb" wasn't under warranty and would charge me 30-40 dollars. I can't take it back to the dealer again because I am afraid that I will choke the manager. I've been running stabil in my fuel the whole time. Any ideas on what might be causing this? Thanks,

Dump the fuel and start with fresh stuff from the station without stabalizer. This will eliminate "old" fuel as the problem. If the dealer let the tractor warm up first, it may have just started right up. This is not an unknown fuel characteristic of stale fuel. Second, if there is still a problem, remove the fuel bowl and inspect/clean the rubber coated fuel needle tip. They have a tendency to stick sometimes. If its neither of these, then proceed to the suggestions of others.
charlie in vt

 

[Fordlords]

This brings to mind something. I have not used Stabil with any of my small engines, preferring to shut the fuel valve off and run the carb dry, then just dumping the old fuel in the tank. I once tried Stabil with a Kawasaki motorcycle, and had nothing but problems getting it to start and run after sitting. I now know that Kohler engines use the same make Keihin carbs as that Kawasaki, and they might not care for Stabil too much. -Fordlords-

 

[JTKub]

This brings to mind something. I have not used Stabil with any of my small engines, preferring to shut the fuel valve off and run the carb dry, then just dumping the old fuel in the tank.

Same here. I've never used a fuel stabilizer, even in my generators or boat engines. I run the carbs out and dump the tanks. I fog the $$$ boat 2-strokes as they are running out of fuel.

Joel

 

[Dave01]

Uh Oh, not a stabilizer/no stabilizer thread

05tundra, let us know if you have any luck this weekend.

 

[doc_cottom]

I have the 1046 CC that is only one mowing season old. I have not experienced your problem as of yet anyhow. My problem is it runs to high on idle and the dealer says if it is touched it will void my warranty. I would love to get my hands on a tach that will do 2 cylinder engines to check what it is set at, at the factory. There is hardly any difference between idle and full throttle.

Pegleg,

On the Kohler twins when you go to shut them down, let them idle a few minutes to cool, then go wide-open throttle and turn the key off. This is what my IH dealer recomended, and it works fine. (It's got something to do with the government mandated emmission controls on that engine.)

Doc