Troubleshoot reason for 53 farmal super C stalling iut

[feleds]

First let me say how I appreciate having this forum and the excellent advice I致e gotten over the years. With that being said. I have a new problem. My 53 super C. Wants to stall out when I知 brush hogging. It will run fine for 3 cycles then it begins. It starts to sputter if I press in the clutch the tractor revives. Let me list what I’ve done (my guesses)
1. It’s a brand new battery
2. Starter, generator and wiring were checked out repaired replaced ( so thats all good)
3. What it might be? Spark plugs
- Spark plug wiring. Both these were replaced 4 years ago
- celinoid original. Belts in good condition
- I planned to change the oil after brush hogging this year.
-Some of the gas is old but I have been diluting it with new. So it’s mostly new
- I just sharpened the brush hog blades
- Radiator was fully inspected. Replaced cap
-Clutch and transmission work fine
I have been brush hogging with this tractor and implement for 3 years
I think thats about it. Does anyone have any ideas what I might try befor I take it in for a service call

 

[AWSubie]

Have u checked the governor linkages?

 

[DJ54]

It sound fuel related to me. #1, could be the vent in the fuel cap is not working properly. Next time it starts to falter, stop, shut the tractor off, and open the fuel cap, listening for a vacuum in the tank.

#2, if you don't hear the sound of a vacuum in the tank, remove the fuel line at the carb., and check for a good strong stream. If not, could be the screen in the top of the sediment bowl is partially plugged. It will run good, but it may not provide enough fuel, when you're pulling it hard. If you have a good strong stream, shut the fuel off, then remove the elbow where the fuel line attaches to the carb. It should look like the elbow/fuel strainer in the picture below. If partially plugged, it will give you the same symptoms as #2. It will flow fuel if partially plugged, but not enough if you're pulling it hard. You can back flush it with a can of spray carb., or brake cleaner, spraying back through the mesh screen. You should be able to see through the screen, if you hold it up to the light.

#3. If the temperature was in, say the low 80's outside, and you're pulling it pretty hard, there is a possibility of it vapor locking. Without knowing the temperature when you're mowing, how hard it is pulling, and what type of fuel line, or how close it is to the manifold, this is merely speculation. I have had my Farmall A vapor lock on me mowing with the rotary cutter, on a hot day. IF that is the problem, it's a pretty easy fix. If you have any of the wooden, spring type clothes pins, clip 3 on the fuel line, between the air filter, and carb., and it will eliminate the problem. Ask any older Ford guy about that fix. It was pretty popular for the early 60's cars & truck with vapor lock problems.

I have also had a small speck of something get in the main jet, and make my Super C sputter. A quick pull on the choke usually lets you know if it's a fuel problem, as it will at least partially recover. You may also just want to look through the sediment bowl, and see if there is any debris in the bottom. If there is, it's a good bet some haspassed on through the fuel line,and has your elbow/fuel strainer partially plugged.

 

[jaxs]

I go along with what DJ say's about probability of restricted fuel flow. To expand on what he said, tractors that old should have the intire fuel system cleaned as preventive maintenance. Years of rust and debris can result in "clogged arteries". #1 suspect is screen at sediment bowl. Some have cylinderial screen similar to one on ell-bow pictured above and usually require draining tank before removing. Others have a flat screen that can be removed along with bowl gasket. Be prepared to buy a new gasket and screen because they might be too far gone to clean and reuse. Tractor Supply Company carry's a few parts. The lazy man method is blowing compressed air through everything in reverse direction but that's not a long term cure. At miniumn,dump bowl. It might have water in it.

 

[feleds]

Thanks you are all life savers will try that next time as I am leaving for a time and won’t get back for several weeks. Thanks again I will get back to you

 

[DJ54]

With today's ethanol laced fuel, you'll get stuff in the fuel tank you don't want. It also draws moisture, and can cause rust in the tank. 4 years ago, I bit the bullet, and tried Seafoam, as many had suggested on here, to clean up the system. It works great. It worked too great..!! I'm not really sure what the residue was in the bottom of the tank. The consistency reminded me of some sort of algae, in a real thin layer in the very bottom portions of the tank. The Seafoam cut that debris loose and was floating around, and plugged the system from the sediment bowl screen, and finer pieces passed through the sediment bowl, on to the elbow strainer pictured above. I ended up purging the tank, and cleaning the whole system out. Once that was done, so far Seafoam, or now I use Stabil 360, which has a fuel system cleaner in it, I've had no problems since.

 

[feleds]

Great info. I was also told to use the lead additive. Thanks great info.

 

[feleds]

Finally getting back to you. Today we cleaned out the gas tank replaced the screen and seal in the sediment bowl used sea foam in the gas swished it around ( we removed the gas tank ) gear oil and hydraulic fluid is full. The tractor ran 10 200 yd laps brush hogging. When the engine quit again. Could I need the carb removed and cleaned out? I知 stumped. And you guys seem to have the answers. Please help me again. What should I do next. It gets into high grass and stalls after running it a half hour or more. We ran it in 2nd gear full throttle. Any more suggestions. I知 going back and read the posts again

 

[jaxs]

You must consider due to age plus a dozen or more unknowns,noone can nail it down from what you have told us about the problem. Let's try and eliminate a few things then work with remaining possabilities. For starters will it start up and run again after sitting a few hours? I suggest you try starting fluid when it quit's or refuses to start. If it start's then die's when given a shot of starting fluid,that point's to lack of fuel. Lack of fuel can result from clogged filter,restricted line,trash in float needle seat or half a dozen other reasons. Remove drain plug from carburetor bowl and catch fuel as it drains. If you see a steady stream until a pint or more is in receptical,filter,line and float valve are likely not the problem. If stream stop's or slows to drip,tell us and we will go from there. BTW,if it will not start on starting fluid,the problem is not fuel related.

 

[DJ54]

Being it's taking that long before it stalls, I'd have to lean towards the tank not venting, or, vapor locking. Did you loosen the fuel cap as soon as it stalled..?? If not, if it's stalling after 10 laps, stop, and crack the fuel cap after 6 laps, then go again. Run another 6 laps, and crack the cap again. If it keeps running, fuel cap is not venting. It won't take but a few seconds to loosen the cap, and get back with it. If it's vapor locking, you should know within the next 6 laps.

How long are you having to wait before you can re-start it..?? If it has to pretty much cool completely, then I'd say vapor lock. As mentioned, and easy fix with several clothes pins on the fuel line, like in the picture below. They act as a heat sink, even though they are made of wood. You can get a whole bag of them at Wal-Mart for a few bucks.

You don't say how big of a cutter you are pulling, so I'll assume at least 5'. And, not saying how tall the grass is, but, if it's 10" plus, that's probably asking a lot for that tractor in 2nd gear, and about guarantee the governor is calling for extra fuel continually, on a hard pull. So can't help but think, if it takes that many rounds for it to stall, it's a venting, or vapor lock issue.

Actually, the first thing I'd do, is remove #1 plug, and check for spark right when it stalls. Just put a plug wrench in the tool box, so it's handy right then. If you haven't found out by now, a 3/8" deep well socket fits those spark plug wells in the head, much better than a 1/2" socket. Set the brakes, make sure the tractor is in neutral, and pto is disengaged. Ground spark plug on the engine block, then roll the engine over, and see if you have spark. If you have spark, it's definitely fuel related. If it was air filter related, it would falter long before 10 rounds.

It's something simple in the system, you just need to find it.