I have a Troy Bilt Horse s/n 109117 with a 7hp Kohler. I'm 99% sure about the model, finding a manual for it with pics that look just like my machine. I went to replace the belts following instructions in this manual which said "simply" remove bolt from reverse disc and remove reverse disc. My problem is that the disc won't simply remove. It doesn't look like a seperate disc at all, looks like it is part of the engine pulleys. Furthermore, there are three small allen head screws running through the disc and into the pulleys. I can't find a manual or part illustrations anywhere showing me the screws. Have I got my model number wrong? wrong manual? wrong belt changing instructions?
Troy Bilt Horse reverse disc (model question)
- Thread starter tjack335
- Start date
- Views: 36557
-
- Tags
- troy bilt horse
2manyrocks
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2007
- Messages
- 9,517
You can get the manual off the Troy Bilt website to be sure you have the right one. I thought the reverse disk just came off the pulley once you removed the bolt. http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/DocGetter?doc=mnl20h-7-2.pdf
Saxman
Bronze Member
I had a 7HP Kohler "HORSE" tiller in the 80's. If it is a 4 speed model you should have one belt with a two belt pulley on the engine and the tiller transmission. High speed is the with the belt in the groove closest to the engine low is the rear pulley. I think the part number for the belt is 1128 and to just change the belt it is not necessary to remove the reverse disc.
Steve
Steve
claridon
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2007
- Messages
- 79
- Location
- Geauga County (snow country), Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota L3540HST+
The 2 speed tiller has two belts, part no. 1128. The 4 speed tiller has a single belt, part no. 9245.
The reverse disc comes off by removing the single bolt in the center of the disc.
On my Horse it is necessary to remove the reverse disc to change the belt.
The reverse disc comes off by removing the single bolt in the center of the disc.
On my Horse it is necessary to remove the reverse disc to change the belt.
claridon
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2007
- Messages
- 79
- Location
- Geauga County (snow country), Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota L3540HST+
My mistake.
Saxman is right; you do not need to remove the reverse disc to get the belt off. It is easier to get the belt off if you do remove it, but it's not required.
-Len
Saxman is right; you do not need to remove the reverse disc to get the belt off. It is easier to get the belt off if you do remove it, but it's not required.
-Len
2manyrocks
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2007
- Messages
- 9,517
Maybe what is going on is that the posts that the engine goes up and down on are bound up with dirt or you're otherwise not getting the full range of motion that would allow you to change the belt without removing the disk. I've never had to remove the disk to change a belt, either.
Thanks for the advice, but I am still curious about the model. It is a two speed model (fast and slow). I has the two belts and I'm referring to the same manual that 2manyrocks linked. Everything looks like the Horse in that manual except the reverse disc. I'm still curious about the three allen head screws. Anybody seen one with such screws. I'll try to get a photo posted.
jas67
Platinum Member
I have an old (S/N 143036; est. 1970's) two-speed model (two belts) that has a reverse disc with the three screws. I have been unable to get the reverse disc separated from the pulley, and I'm afraid of destroying it trying, and then still having part of it rusted fast to the pulley, keeping me from installing a new one.
I'll be doing a little more research on this today, as I'm going to order a reverse disc, and new belts for mine to put on it, since I have it apart already to re-power it with a new engine.
BTW, anyone re-shim the main transmission shaft on these? Mine has about 3/16" axial play.
J.
I'll be doing a little more research on this today, as I'm going to order a reverse disc, and new belts for mine to put on it, since I have it apart already to re-power it with a new engine.
BTW, anyone re-shim the main transmission shaft on these? Mine has about 3/16" axial play.
J.
jas67
Platinum Member
"Simply" -- yeh, that's funny. That's easy for them (manual writers) to say. They were working with a new unit, not a 40-year-old one with the parts rusted together.
jas67
Platinum Member
Yes, I got a reverse disc. I'll need to check the part # from home (I'm at work). I'm not 100% sure it is the correct one, and had not gotten the old one off last I had a chance to work on it. I've had the parts for weeks now, but no time to even look at it. I have a day off work on Thursday with no wife or kid at home (those days are VERY rare for me), so I hope to work on it then. I'll keep you posted.
I know it is a reply to an old post, but maybe it will help. I had the same tiller and problem. Take out the 3 allen screws that hold the disk. Remove the center bolt.
Then I took a 1 1/2 inch paint scraper with a solid center and beveled edge. I held it up against the inside edge of the reverse disk and tapped it with a hammer. Working around SLOWLY I could see it separating. After the scraper was too small to help any more I Kept the scraper against the disk to protect it and slipped increasingly larger screwdrivers between the pulley and the scraper. It slowly worked its way off without much damage. I agree it looks like one piece.
I remember also that sprayed some penetrent on the shaft to help.
Now I to get rid of the play in the tiller drive shaft. If there is a lot of play, can I keep on shimming or do I need to change bearings, gears or something? At least 1/4 inch after stock shims are in it.
Then I took a 1 1/2 inch paint scraper with a solid center and beveled edge. I held it up against the inside edge of the reverse disk and tapped it with a hammer. Working around SLOWLY I could see it separating. After the scraper was too small to help any more I Kept the scraper against the disk to protect it and slipped increasingly larger screwdrivers between the pulley and the scraper. It slowly worked its way off without much damage. I agree it looks like one piece.
I remember also that sprayed some penetrent on the shaft to help.
Now I to get rid of the play in the tiller drive shaft. If there is a lot of play, can I keep on shimming or do I need to change bearings, gears or something? At least 1/4 inch after stock shims are in it.
This is in response to a very old post so I hope someone sees it. I have a mid-70s vintage Horse 2 speed that came with a defunct 6hp Tecumseh (serial number 162677). The age is my best estimate and I have re-powered with a 900 series Briggs. As you can see from the attached photo, there are 3 (I believe threaded) holes that accommodate the Allen screws mentioned by another poster; however, there was never a reverse disc on the machine since I've had it. Now looking to find said disc because I'm too old to be wrestling the thing around. My parts catalog says part no. 1072k with part no. 1287 mounting plate (see attached schematic and parts list). I've see no hard fiber reverse discs with 3 holes in them for the Allen screws. Any help appreciated.
Attachments
Found some more info at - Fiber Reverse Disc #CP1072 See attached files.
