Truck brakes

[Boondox]

In the continuing saga of the 1957 Dodge pickup, I just finished replacing both wheel cylinders up front. Since there was so much rust, and so much difficulty getting replacement parts, I stripped things down to the backing plate and used that POR15 paint to reduce future corrosion. The truck looks great, but I'm a real mess. The instructions said to wear gloves, because once dry that stuff can't be removed. Figured I could be neat. Figured wrong. My hands will be gray till the top layer of skin sloughs off! Had a big gray spot on the tip of my nose, too. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif Tried every chemical in the garage to no avail, and finally took a long shower and simply shaved my nose to get the paint off. /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

But back to the truck. I have plenty of brake shoe left, and have adjusted the cams just shy of the point where the shoes rub the drum. Bled the brakes thoroughly and am getting only clear new fluid out. But the pedal goes much further down than before -- nearly to the floor -- and I can't reach the adjusting rod on the master cylinder to adjust the pedal free play. Gawd, parts of this truck are HARD to reach! Since it's my wife's truck, and we live on top of a long hill, good brakes are fairly important to me. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif I'm thinking of just buying a new master cylinder and having the local garage swap it out for me.

Covered in grease and loving it!

Pete

 

[s1120]

Your right on that Por15 stuff. Works real good, but if you get it on you, its there forever./w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

Also I hove found that when you replace part of the braking system, you put stress on the rest of it, becouse it it making more pressure. I would put in a new master, and most imporant, replace all the rubber lines!! Also if you want a project, swap to a dule cyl master. Much safer.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I had to replace the rubber lines in my '85 Chevy truck. I can only imagine what they look like in that Dodge. Is there a small knock-out on the backing plate that would allow access to the adjusters with the drum on the hub? If there is, punch that sucker out and replace it with a rubber plug. That's what I did on that old Chevelle anyway.

 

[Egon]

If you have access to an air compressor an inexepensive sand blaster may be a definite asset in cleaning off the rust and accumulated gunk etc. when working on the truck.
When working on the braking system be prepared to do a lot of replacing if rust is prevelent and all pressure hoze/tubing and cylinders should be rebuilt or replaced on a vehicle of that age. Turn the drums too and install new shoes.
Egon

 

[Boondox]

Well, since I can't find another pair of drums I'm afraid to have these turned. I just rough them up with emory cloth and they seem pretty happy. All the brake lines were replaced a year ago, but one seems to be leaking. Judging from the shape of the rubber my bet is the last guy tried to screw it in without removing the wheel cylinder...just kept turning till the hose was all kinked up. I have the master cylinder on order, and will probably replace the rear wheel cylinders if I have the $$$ before the weather turns cold. No fun laying on concrete at minus ten.

The adjusters are just a pair of eccentric cams attached to a bolt that goes all the way thru the backing plate. Turn the bolt (big 1 1/4 sucker!) and the cam rotates to push the shoes out. Really simple, though I've never seen that arrangement before.

You know, the day will come when the drums are shot. Not sure what I'll do when that happens. Hopefully I'll find something in a desert junkyard. Hey, Muhammad lives in Arizona now! Buddy! Friend! Want more coffee??? /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Pete

 

[brewerbob]

Pete: I think you may be able to order those drums from Napa. They have an old parts department if I recall correctly. You could turn the old ones if they are thick enough. The brakes on these trucks are bad even when they work perfectly.
Bob

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Have you tried posting on the Power Wagon forum? Even if you don't have an M-37 or a Power Wagon, thise guys will help you out with a dodge. www.dodgepowerwagon.com

 

[Egon]

Boondox:
Would you beleive I actually have a tool designed to turn that little cam wheel that is usually rusted stuck and another that's for taking off the springs that hold the shoes together. They haven't ben used for many a year. You may find later model truck drums that will fit and all of them had drums on the back. Just as an example a 1966 chrysler front wheel bearing was the same as a 1951 internation 1/2 ton front wheel bearing.
I'd love to have 1959 dodge long box with a 383 and four speed.

Egon

 

[Boondox]

Egon -- Sometimes I think design changes are made just so more tools can be sold! As for the springs, I've seen that tool, but depressing the spring by hand while turning the rod with a pair of needlenose pliers works just fine.

Is there a resource that gives dimensions for drums? Mine are 11" diameter and 2" deep. Looks like they changed to 2 1/4" deep since then. And of course the five lug pattern welded to the drum complicates things Struck out at NAPA, so it looks like junkyard raids are in my future. Sure would help if I knew which vehicles had drums like the ones I need.

Pete

 

[Boondox]

Bob -- NAPA was unable to help. They looked for several hours before admitting they had no source of drums for my truck. First time they've ever let me down.

Yes, the brakes are bad. On the plus side, the truck is slow. /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Pete