Tires Turf to Ag Tires

[Saltfork]

First off I would like to thank everyone here as you have been a GREAT help as I’ve been lurking for the last few weeks. I am new to tractors and Yanmar in particular. I purchased a YM276D that was running but not moving under its own power because it needed a clutch. I did the clutch job, yes it really is only a 4 to 5 hour job (I'll post a picture of it split in half tommorow). It now works fine.

I seems however that I am in the minority wanting to go from turf tires to Ag tires. What I have is 16.5L – 16.1 Goodyear All Weather tires rear and I would like to get Ag/rice tires and having been to the Firestone, Goodyear, and Titan web sites they really don’t seem to make that size Ag tire. The service manual calls for 11.2-24 or 12.4-24 tires. Do other Yanmar tractors have this size tire/wheel? Do the comparable JD tractor (850,855,950,955) wheels fit? Others? The front tires/wheels are also a problem current 25x7.50-15 and the book calls for 7-14 or 7-16 size. What about the lug pattern/spacing and the center hole?

Thanks for the help I’m sure there is an easy solution. Trade someone?

 

[Saltfork]

Just a couple of pictures of the split tractor.

 

[Saltfork]

Another.

 

[MarkLeininger]

I've never taken a tractor apart but I assumed they had a frame. It looks like the clutch housing is the only thing holding the two halves of the tractor together. What am I missing?

 

[gbirky]

You are not missing anything. Almost all tractors use the engine block, bellhousing, and tranny/transaxle casing as the tractor "frame" with a "tunnel" or sort of box frame enclosing the a driveshaft, that connects the bellhousing to the tranny. Some newer Japanese tractors actually do have frames, but that is not the typical design.

This is why it is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that you use a subframe when installing a loader on a tractor. The subframe connects to the loader frame, and runs back to connect to some part of the tranny/transaxle. This essentially connects the front part of the tractor (engine block) to the rear of the tractor. It is not uncommon to break a tractor in half from hard loader/backhoe use. Normally the belhousing is the weak point. 3pt backhoes are particularly prone to cause these problems. A good subframe mount hoe is a much safer implement.

 

[Saltfork]

No frame just 8 bolts holding the bell housing to the engine plate. After all the other stuff that is between the break are disconected (fuel line, hydralic line, decompression cable, electrical wires, etc. ) you just support both halves and unbolt it and roll the back away from the front.

One thing that I did read but forgot to do was block the engine and front axle /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif . Good thing my son was at the front to grab/hold the engine as when the back separated the engine started to tilt. I don't know if it would have been enough to knock the front off the stands/jack but I'm real glad he was there /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

But overall it was fairly easy job. First evening I got every thing apart, new clutch installed, and back together. The second evening I hooked all the lines back up and took it for a drive /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[Marv]

I may have tires & rims that you are looking for. Just click on my name for my e-mail address

 

[devoman1999]

Not sure if you have your solution yet or not but I just may be willing to try a trade. I have a set of rice tires (12.4 x 24) on the rims ready to go. Off a ym2000. Could possibly deal on the fronts also. Where are you located. I am in SE Indiana.

 

[Saltfork]

devoman1999 I left you a personal message.

 

[devoman1999]

Ok, just sent you one back. Thanks for response.