TX1500F? Bolens G174 service manual and/or rear axle help?

[willierides]

I am a new member here. I recently bought an Iseki/Bolens G174 four wheel drive with a bucket and finish mower. It had flat rear tire when I bought it. I removed the pin and can not get the hub to budge either by pulling (with a GOOD puller) or by twisting it (in case it's threaded on there). It looks like the hubs can be mounted two ways, with the rims inside the flange or outside the flange. Mine are mounted with the flange on the outside, so the hub must be removed to get the rim off.

Can someone tell me 1) how the hub is held on there once the pin is removed? and, 2) where can I find a reputable source for a good service/repair manual?

I posted this in the parts and repair forum. I think that was a mistake and apologize now for "cross posting". I'll be more careful in the future. Thanks!

 

[NHmitch]

Hi, congratulations on your new tractor! I have a G154 TX1300F, and I have posted most parts of the service manual in other threads under the Iseki Forum, but the regular operation manual is free at this site: Bolens - Iseki Diesel Tractor Models The hub is not threaded on, it may just be rusted in place. Mine are turned around the opposite way from yours with the flange in, but either way, they are designed to just slide on and of once you take the pin out, in fact they will move a bit on the axel. I would try a good Penetrating Catalyst like PB blast and let it soak overnight. I have found that PB works better than WD-40. They do just slide on and off, so you may have to hit the tire with a rubber mallet to help. I bought my repair manual on eBay for around $5 on disk. I also have a source for the decals, and the paint, if you decide to re-paint yours, but I am not sure what condition it is in. I would check the oil, the air filter, the hydraulic dipstick, located next to the gear shift boot, and the coolant right off the bat. I actually have quite a bit of information about your tractor if you need it. Do you have any photos of your tractor? Also is it a two cylinder, or a three? You can usually tell because the two cylinder has the exhaust stack horizontal to the ground. I found this diagram for you in one of my manuals. I see what else I can finds for you, welcome to TBN, and again, you bought a great little machine that should work like a tank for you.

 

[NHmitch]

I also forgot to mention, if you don't have a ROPS (roll over protection) they have a program in NY where you can get one for your new tractor almost for free. I used the program in NH to purchase a ROPS for my Bolens, and I only had to pay roughly about $100 of the $800 for the ROPS. NY is one of the few states that offer the program, and thats where mine was administered out of. The links is: New York ROPS Rebate Program It is a really worth while investment since your tractor weights in around 1 ton with your equipment, and because they are a bit narrow, you can roll easier. Just an idea.

 

[willierides]

Wow. Excellent information! Thank you! At least I know it's SUPPOSED to come off. It's rusted and painted on there, I guess. Looks like I may need to borrow my brother-in-law and his oxy-acetylene torch to get some real heat on there. I bought an OTC 7394 puller (an awesome tool) and it's not budging it.

Also, it definitely needs an ROP system, so that link is awesome. Thanks again!

I have to head off to work, but will post pics soon.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Also check to make sure somebody didn't weld them to the shafts (heaven forbid) just to be sure.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

... Also is it a two cylinder, or a three? You can usually tell because the two cylinder has the exhaust stack horizontal to the ground. ...

My experience has been that the stacks *usually* came horizontal on both types of engines. The big difference is that the 3-cyl engines have it on the left side of the tractor and the 2-cyl on the right.

 

[NHmitch]

Thats a really nice puller, I could have used that on several jobs at home! The ROPS that they have you get are SAE certified, and fit great. This is a photo of my G154 with the ROPS attached, and my new post hole digger attached.

 

[willierides]

I can't see your pic, Mitch. But here's mine, sitting where it was when I bought it. I have a friend and his brother coming up Sunday to try and get the wheels off for me. They're bringing a torch, some more tools I think, and lots of experience between them working on equipment! Fingers are crossed. If these guys can't get them off....they're not coming off in one piece!

Anyway:

 

[NHmitch]

Thats a great looking tractor! I like the FEL, and the finish mower! Were you able to get the rear wheels off yet? Your rear tire look like the original turf tires that came with it. Mine had the same ones when I bought it, but I added the R1 ag tires, because I needed the traction when I use the tractor in my woods, and when I plow with it. Yours looks like it is in good shape, and I think that who ever had it added an after market exhaust, but it looks good. Thanks for the photos. My photo didn't show up when I looked at the thread on my ipad, but I saw it on my Mac. Thanks for the photos! See if this works:

 

[willierides]

That's a very nice looking tractor! I think I'll go with Ag tires once I get some stuff straightened out. I want to get an ROPS first.

The wheels are not off yet. But I have a good friend that's going to come up with his brother tomorrow (Sunday) to give it a try. My friend Gary was going to borrow his older brother's torches and come up today (Saturday), but his brother, who I've only met a couple times over the years, said, "Well, if you can wait until Sunday, I'll go with ya." According to my friend, who has all kinds of experience and knowledge on all kinds of stuff, said his brother has a lot more experience with heat than he does. Lol. By the way, my friend is 57 has lived on a farm all his life and is a certified motorcycle and marine technician. And his brother is much older than he is. We're talking experience here! These guys are both farmer/heavy equipment/mechanical handy guys with many years of dealing with this kind of stuff. They're bringing a good torch and some know-how. I'm really hoping they can do it. I can't wait.

 

[willierides]

Thats a great looking tractor! I like the FEL, and the finish mower! Were you able to get the rear wheels off yet? Your rear tire look like the original turf tires that came with it. Mine had the same ones when I bought it, but I added the R1 ag tires, because I needed the traction when I use the tractor in my woods, and when I plow with it. Yours looks like it is in good shape, and I think that who ever had it added an after market exhaust, but it looks good. Thanks for the photos. My photo didn't show up when I looked at the thread on my ipad, but I saw it on my Mac. Thanks for the photos! See if this works: View attachment 273280

I see you have your wheels and hubs oriented the way I want mine to be. By the way, do you have anything in your tires besides air? I was thinking of just putting air in and getting/making some kind of wheel weights. I like the weights on the front of yours, too.

 

[NHmitch]

I have my front tires loaded with windshield washer fluid. I am going to get the rear tires loaded this week. I really adds very good ballast, and they are very heavy. They made original wheel weights when they sold the tractors new, but I have not seen any for sale anywhere. If you add weights, you will have to make sure that they are balanced, and round, so you don't throw off your the balance while you are driving. I think that it may be less expensive to have them loaded with washer fluid. They make other substances that weight much more, but they cost a considerable amount. I was able to get the washed fluid in the tires at a dealer for under $30. They do sell kits where you can do it at home, but you need a small electric, or hand pump. You can also make a homemade ballast for the rear using a half a 55 gallon barrel, and filling it with quickcrete, after you install the 3 point attachment points. I would recommend putting tubes in your tires if they are not in there now because they will stop just about any issues with leaks. The R1 ag tires were not cheap, they ran about $350 for all four, but compared to larger tractors, that is the price of one front tire. You can also just buy them one tire at a time, and put them aside. I like the rims turned in, because it seems like they do not get dirt in them like the other way, however the way that you have yours widens your stance a bit. You should contact the NYCAMP ROPS program as soon as possible to get on the list. Sometimes the funds are available right away, and sometimes you have to wait several months. It depends on when they get their funding in. b I like how you have your FEL repainted. It came out good.

I see you have your wheels and hubs oriented the way I want mine to be. By the way, do you have anything in your tires besides air? I was thinking of just putting air in and getting/making some kind of wheel weights. I like the weights on the front of yours, too.

 

[willierides]

Well, not a super day, but still good. My friend and his brother came up with a torch and a sledge hammer. Ended up having the hub glowing cherry red, the OTC puller cranked down and wacking it with a sledge hammer. It didn't budge a bit. Not at all. Even they were scratching their heads. I guess rust is a powerful thing. I had already broken down the bead on the outer side of the rim and they helped me break it down on the other side. I ended up buying a new tube, wire brushing the bejesus out of the rim and putting the new tube in. It worked and I am now at least able to use the tractor. I left the pins out of both hubs with the hope that they may loosen up with use. If I get ambitious I will make new hubs, with a two piece, clamp type design and cut the stock ones off. But my ambition is about zero at this point. Time to play with the tractor. My next two projects will be to get and install a Roll Over Protection System and to make a spring-tooth harrow type attachment for the three point hitch (to dig up my motocross track). I have an old spring tooth harrow that I've dragged around behind my 1947 Oliver for about three years now. I will cannabilize that for some of the parts I need.

 

[OkieDiesel]

I hope the reason we haven't heard more from you is because you're out tractoring, not because the wheel fell off and the tractor smushed you Seriously, that pin is the only thing (besides rust) holding your wheel on. If it comes off, it's a good bet that tractor's going over. Put the pin back in PLEASE.
I'm a new owner of an Iseki 1510 myself, and lovin' every minute of it. Was just browsing around for a service manual, and came across your thread. Have you tried nosing the FEL up to a tree, and with that pin out going in 1/low and breakin that shaft loose with the torque of the diesel? After a good PB soaking for a few days, you just may have some luck with that... just make sure that you are in a position where the wheel can't slip off the shaft if it does break free. I just had my wheels off yesterday, and on mine they are a loose fit.
Best of luck! Hope you are enjoying the new ride as much as I am.

Well, not a super day, but still good. My friend and his brother came up with a torch and a sledge hammer. Ended up having the hub glowing cherry red, the OTC puller cranked down and wacking it with a sledge hammer. It didn't budge a bit. Not at all. Even they were scratching their heads. I guess rust is a powerful thing. I had already broken down the bead on the outer side of the rim and they helped me break it down on the other side. I ended up buying a new tube, wire brushing the bejesus out of the rim and putting the new tube in. It worked and I am now at least able to use the tractor. I left the pins out of both hubs with the hope that they may loosen up with use. If I get ambitious I will make new hubs, with a two piece, clamp type design and cut the stock ones off. But my ambition is about zero at this point. Time to play with the tractor. My next two projects will be to get and install a Roll Over Protection System and to make a spring-tooth harrow type attachment for the three point hitch (to dig up my motocross track). I have an old spring tooth harrow that I've dragged around behind my 1947 Oliver for about three years now. I will cannabilize that for some of the parts I need.

 

[willierides]

Those wheels are not coming off. I have been using the heck out of the tractor, though. I've accomplished all kinds of stuff with it. If I ever really need to get them off, I will cut the hubs off and make new ones. For now, they are fine just being frozen tight to the axles.

 

[Rod in Forfar]

I am a new member here. I recently bought an Iseki/Bolens G174 four wheel drive with a bucket and finish mower. It had flat rear tire when I bought it. I removed the pin and can not get the hub to budge either by pulling (with a GOOD puller) or by twisting it (in case it's threaded on there). It looks like the hubs can be mounted two ways, with the rims inside the flange or outside the flange. Mine are mounted with the flange on the outside, so the hub must be removed to get the rim off.

Can someone tell me 1) how the hub is held on there once the pin is removed? and, 2) where can I find a reputable source for a good service/repair manual?



The wheel simply slides onto the axle and is held in place by that pin. Use lots of penetrating oil. It should come right off.

You can download the Iseki TX1500 service manual without cost from any number of sites. Then you'll have as much information as the rest of us.

Hope this helps,

Rod