type of metal and weld rod advice

   / type of metal and weld rod advice #1  

KFhunter

Bronze Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Messages
79
Location
NE,WA
Tractor
Kubota M6800
I need some knowledge on what steel and weld rod to use (Lincoln buzz box) on a project I'm starting very soon.

I bought a bale grapple last year for cheap, but it's very rough. It's go so much metal scabbed on that it weights almost twice what it's suppose too and it's probably too heavy for my smaller tractor with up to 900 lbs of hay clamped under it.

So what I need to know is what high strength without a ton of weight metal to use and suggest wall thickness, I'm thinking 2x2 square tubing bridged.
Want to completely rebuild this thing just using the parts but all new frame. The holes you see on the side with the 1 inch square tubing rotates the forks down into the bales and they're all wallowed out so I want to make a frame and install pillow block bearings and slide a round sleeve over the 1 inch square tubing to sit inside the 1.5 or so inch pillow block bearing.

It's suppose to look like this:
J2238.JPG


but it's worse than this, scabbed with huge plate and angle iron everywhere, but it's got a ton of forks too and the hydraulics and hardware is good. frame is shot.
Farmhand8pack%20(1).JPG
 
   / type of metal and weld rod advice #2  
Most rods will work. If the metal is rusty and dirty and you cant clean it with a grinder. Burn 6011. If you can clean it 1st, Use 7018. A dozen other rods work well to but these are the 2 go to rods. good luck.. 1/8 will work most of the time but a little 3/32 for thin material is good too.
 
   / type of metal and weld rod advice
  • Thread Starter
#3  
It's going to be all fresh metal but I need to know what I should get as I have to place an order and meet the truck.
 
   / type of metal and weld rod advice #4  
If you buzz box is AC only stay with 6011. It is a good all position rod for AC. Your weld will be as strong or stronger than your steel. DC just switch to 6010. For structural shapes 1/8" rod is fine if you have 100A A or more. Key is full penetration welds both sides. A36 steel is garden variety for structural shapes and satisfactory for what you are building. I would use at least 1/4" wall thickness throughout including tube stock; and probably 3/8 or 1/2" for the basic frame items in angle and channel

Ron
 
   / type of metal and weld rod advice #5  
Assuming you are a novice welder, if not ignore this. If your buzz box is AC only stay with 6011. It is a good all position rod for AC. Your weld will be as strong or stronger than your steel. DC just switch to 6010. For structural shapes 1/8" rod is fine if you have 100A A or more. Key is full penetration welds both sides. A36 steel is garden variety for structural shapes and satisfactory for what you are building. I would use at least 1/4" wall thickness throughout including tube stock; and probably 3/8 or 1/2" for the basic frame items in angle and channel. Any thing over 1/8" bevel both sides of the joint. I(f you are a novice or put of practice do some practicing on scrap for awhile till you can get comfortable and can get a good full penetration weld.

Ron
 
   / type of metal and weld rod advice
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks, it's just a Lincoln AC 225 buzz box. I have both 6011 and 7018 but I'll grab a fresh box of each.

2x2 square tubing .25 wall thickness is 5.4lbs /foot. Think I really need it that thick throughout?
 
   / type of metal and weld rod advice #7  
That was only a recommendation on my thought process w/o know anything about your overall situation. Just think about the torque and other stresses you will develop. If You use 1/8 and it twists up in use you are out your time and money. Not being an engineer I tend to build he!! for stout to avoid a disappointment later. When you say "box" what size/#. I would have a minimum of 10# on hand. That is the way I buy it from Pacific Welding. I avoid 50# boxes as they do not have a way to seal them up like the 5s and 10s do.

Ron
 
   / type of metal and weld rod advice
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I normally do also, but I'm right at the edge of my loader capability. Seriously worried it won't be big enough to lift the grapple + 8 bales. In which case I'll convert it to a 4 bale grapple (really want to avoid that)

It's good for about 2000lbs, rated for 2400lbs at the pins which seems optimistic. Of course you loose a lot of lift as you leverage the load further out as with these grapples they stick out a long ways. I do have a carry all type setup that hangs off the front of the bucket and I can lift 12-14 80lb bales on that.
 
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