Type of steel

[Syncro]

All interesting info, I can see there is more to steel grades than just a generic term, eg 'plow steel'
Since I already have the 3/8" parts cut to length I'll weld em on anyways. On my little CUT it may last a long time, and if not I can always replace them or weld on some hard surfacing, I guess.
My dad used to show me the different grinder sparks from different steels, but it was simply either 'hard steel' or 'soft steel', pretty informal and as smoeone here said, a relic from a time long gone.

Thanks again for all the input.

 

[markct]

the sparks wont tell you if the steel is hard or not, what it will tell you is weather it is high carbon,low carbon, cast etc, to make steel heat treated it is heated and quenched in various ways, the sparks just tell the makeup of the steel, not what heat treat has been done to it

 

[rdln]

my 19th machinery's handbook recommends 1080 for plow shares, disks, harrow disks.

unfortunately nothing is recommended for excavating wear plates.

I have used a product called "casenite"
for case hardening which is about the shallowest penetration. should help a little.

 

[jmc]

Could that steel be in the annealed condition and its up to the user to heat treat it after fabricating? That's how most tool steels are sold.

 

[RICHARDG]

Syncro,,yeah,,you bought it,might as well use it,,it probably is a hardened steel,of some sort,,but plain old carbon steel would last a long while you would think,,,,you will probably get by with just a 70,000 tensile,but if it is a hardened steel at least 80 or 90,000 tensile filler might be more better,,preheat it to about 100,don't get it to hot,,,but if you have trouble with weld cracking later,,you may need to get a higher tensile low hydrogen filler,,it probably won't though,,,those hard surfacing rods and wire were made for putting a surface on your wear areas,,if you got a stick welder you could probably just be able to buy a small can,,a whole spool of wire for mig would cost....thingy