UDT VS AW 46

[danh]

Looking for comments on this one.

I have a B20 that developed a leak at the shaft between the engine and the hydrostatic transmission. The leak was on the transmission side. In order to access it, the dealer had to disconnect and pull the transmission back. Big Job, Big bucks.

They claim that the reason for the seal failure was "overheat" condition.
About a year ago, I replaced the hydraulic pump on the front of the unit - the one that works the front end loader and after doing so, I put AW 46 in the unit. Not recommended by Kubota - they say to use UDT.

Can anyone advise if using this fluid had anything to do with the seal failure and can I expect any other internal hydrostatic problems as a result. Also, the backhoe is off the tractor and I would like to purge the AW-46 (if required) from this unit. Can anyone give me suggestions on how to do this?? If there is an incompatibility, I would like to get all the AW-46 out.

thanks in advance for the comments.

 

[_RaT_]

Who makes your AW46? Regardless, if it says it meets UDT specs, it is fine and I very much doubt would be the case for the seal failure. Extreme heat would indicate a cooling problem and if it is a seal that fails as a result, perhaps the seal should have its heat durability increased. UDT is typical hydraulic fluid, not better at disappating heat over other oils, but is designed with the proper viscosity for the Kubota. Does your tractor have any indicator that says the hydraulic fluid is to hot?

 

[Spiffy]

Can you fill out your profile a bit?

46 seems a bit thin - I'm thinking UDT is a AW68, but if you read a recent thread here, there were two determinations: 1. UDT specs don't seem to be published 2. you might do as well or better, but no doubt would be happy with SUDT and probably with UDT).

Being an AW it should be compatiable with all your seals and shouldn't have issues with the new oil.

Going to the UDT or even SUDT, I wouldn't worry about a perfect purging. However, do you want simple, cheap, or well purged? Simple & cheap: change it and forget it. Simple, but more expensive: change it, run every cylinder you have: to both extremes, and change the oil again. Cheaper, but not as simple - you don't need to completely fill it on the first change (but this gets hairy as you definitely want to be above the suction line(s) even when with your loader arms extended.

Not simple, but cheaper, disassemble all your hoses, manually extend and retract all cylinders (this might take another tractor with FEL). But now you'll have fun, purging all the air when you put the new oil in. Of course, if you're that worried, you'd still want to change it again because of the gallon or so you just can't get. Not really a good option, but it does make the others sound better! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif