Understanding Loctite procedures

[sixdogs]

I'm replacing the 105 tines on a slit seeder and am going to use Loctite blue 242 thread locker. In researching the temperature minimums I can use it at I realized I may have been using it incorrectly over the years. There are squeeze locknuts on the 3/8" bolts and are grade 8 fine thead.


There is mention of putting Loctite on the first few threads of the bolt when I have always put it on under where the nut would wind up. Not sure how my thinking formed on that but it makes more sense. What do others do?

It is mentioned to put the product all the way around the threads and not just a drop on one side. I have done both but never thought about it much and haven't had any bolts loosen up. Do you apply all the way around the threads or just a drop in one place?

Also mentioned is to clean the old bolt thoroughly before applying the product. I've only rarely done this ( but never any oil) and this time around have 210 bolts to contend with. I don't really want to or plan on cleaning 210 bolts so I don't see a problem adding Loctite to the bolts that are clean, dry and free of oil but contain a small amount of residual Loctite. Thoughts on this?

Temperature application range is above 50 degrees and it's supposed to be above that today, with tomorrow going to almost 70. Then back into the 30's at night. Since the product sheet says it is fully cured at 24 hours, I think I'm fine. Do others use in cool temperatures?


Any info helpful on this. Thank you.

 

[boomer1025]

Just make sure the threads are clean, Take the bottle and run a line of sealer the length of the threads and zip the nut on.

 

[sixdogs]

Thanks. Because of the awkward position of the parts, I have to hand tighten them.

 

[Scooby074]

Old loctite and dirt should be wire wheeled off. Depending on the length of exposed threads ill either apply it at the end or close to where the nut will end up.Use a liberal amount.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I use self locking nuts and a thread lubricant/anti seize product on most small bolts (1/4-1/2) for such applications. Never had one back off in service. I make up fairly snug (as far as my arm will do with standard length wrenches) and omit using a torque wrench also. I don't bother with a torque wrench except when mating machined surfaces or precision connections. I use a lot of self locking nuts, stock a lot of sizes for replacements of regular nuts. Here in our rainy; NW corrosion/rust is a bigger problem with implement bolt connections than any other thing. I grease all pin connections for the same reason.

Ron

Ron

 

[RalphVa]

I use it on the 3 bolts holding the chipper blade on my MacKissic. I just dribble it along the threads and screw it in. Let it sit overnight before using.

Ralph

 

[bindian]

6dogs,
Self locking nuts don't need locktite. Are the nuts metal and have a narrow squeeze or crimp on the top? Or are they fiber locking nuts. Fine thread nuts, I use metal self locking. Mostly because that is what we mainly use in avaition. If it is catastrophic if the nuts back off..........we use castellated nuts with cotter pins.
If you gotta use lock tite..................one strip down one side of threads is all that is needed.
hugs, Brandi

 

[sixdogs]

6dogs,
Self locking nuts don't need locktite. Are the nuts metal and have a narrow squeeze or crimp on the top? Or are they fiber locking nuts. Fine thread nuts, I use metal self locking. Mostly because that is what we mainly use in avaition. If it is catastrophic if the nuts back off..........we use castellated nuts with cotter pins.
If you gotta use lock tite..................one strip down one side of threads is all that is needed.
hugs, Brandi

Brandi---the nuts are metal squeeze and not the nylon Nyloc ones. Metal squeeze lock nuts can loosen up on tillers and slit seeders because of the vibration and it is industry practice to use blue-242 Loctite from the factory. My Brillion BOS4 slit seeder came through with Loctite and I an verify that since I just loosened most of the bolts. I don't think castellated nuts and cotter pins would work for a ground engaging tool. In other instances I have used wire ties with success.