Up and Running

bobidy · Oct 6, 2009

I finally got My 1610D up and running.

This is my first tractor by the way, so I've spent the last few days feeling out the tractor & the controls. I experimented with different wheel, cutting angle, & toplink settings on the howse 4ft mower I picked up for the tractor. Figured out how to work the hydraulics, to smoothly pick up and set down the mower.

I mowed a little over 3 1/2 acres of waist high grass & sumac meadow that's dotted with trees & a few plum thickets. With the fel out front & the mower behind, judging when to start making my turns took a little getting used to. & as others have stated, I found out what an asset the use of those L & R brakes are for making tight turns.

I settled on a range of mostly 2/1 & 2/2 for my mowing (@ 2200-2400 rpm.) Till i get used to the tractor I wanted to make sure I could maintain control of the tractor. Besides, any faster than that seemed to be hard on the mower. I followed a tip in another post and set the fel bucket a little below frame level, it was great for bending down the sumac patches before running over them with the tractor & mower. Got to use everything from the diff lock & 4wd to the fel. And, I had an enjoyable time doing it.

The little yanmar ran great.

Quite a contrast from my other attempts. First, the stub axle breaking on me a couple of days after getting the tractor & then, over a period of 2 days & about an hours worth of mow time, I had 3 flats on 2 new frt tires. On the last flat, a sumac stub punched a 1/2 hole in the tire. The new tire was shot. I had a boot put in it so i could get the tractor out of the field. The backs,(rice tires) were unaffected.

I nipped that in the bud. I took the fronts down & had the tubes foam filled. cost 64.00 a wheel. Wheels weigh 55# ea. The 2 shops I found that did foaming, both used medium density foam, and didn't offer any other option. Do any of you have an opinion on weather the added weight of the wheels should be considered when using the fel, as far as the axle is concerned ?

I'm looking forward to getting some things done that before I did not have the equipment, or mussel to do, or the money to have done. Also, I burn wood for heat. And, I can see the fel being as big an asset to me, as my log splitter. Wrestling that wood around lol, gets just a little harder every year.

Below are some pic's of my rig. (I really like the sound of that diesel when it's hummin !)

Bob.

Johndeere3720 · Oct 6, 2009

I love the sound of a yanmar humm two! I just bought my first tractor, a Yanmar 169D with ROPS and a brush hog and love it. I plan to get a FEL next year for it. I am so glad I have it for snow removal with my rear blade. Good luck with your yanmar 1610D! Have fun! That differential lock works great dont it?

MJPetersen · Oct 6, 2009

Glad that you got your 1610 up and running. There is a real sense of satisfaction and pleasure of accomplishing a long neglected task.

You have your top-link connected to what I believe is the special top link for the Yanmar tillers. Normally your top-link would extend to the bracket with attached just above the PTO. The special connection will make the bake of the mower kick up quickly as you lift the mower rather than picking up flat. This will be especially a problem as you graduate to other implements and tasks. This feature is very nice for the tillers because they are so close coupled that it moves the tines away from the rear tires as you lift.

Mike

drippingwithgold · Oct 7, 2009

Congrats on all your work, glad it paid off! I have a 1610d and love it.

bobidy · Oct 7, 2009

Mike:

Thanks for the input! Just the kind of advice I was looking for!
1st tractor + no experence = don't have a clue.

I don't have anyone around me to get advice from, so I have been putting as much into my post's as I can in hopes folks here would guide me if I am missing something or doing things wrong.

That setup may be part of the reason I had jerky lift/set down on the mower. I did notice the other pin holes on that bracket but didn't know what they were for. I will go out later and check things out. will I need to remove the arms for that special link ?

I do have another longer top link I can use if needed. the one on there now I had to cut and weld back together to make it work with the mower. At least I will have one for a tiller when I get one.
I figure that is going to be my next implement for the tractor. what little box blade type work I have at this point I am going to try and do with the fel bucket.

Like they say; Knowleage is power. weather earned or given. you can waste a lot of time & effort not knowing what you are doing. Thanks again.

Bob.

clemsonfor · Oct 7, 2009

the same top like should work unless you cut it and made it really short. Top links are adjustable by turning the middle part like a turnbuckle to legthen or shorten it. No need to take anything else apart for the swithch, just have the BH on the ground and remove the toplink from the tractor side and adjust it out so that it will fit in the correct place, that top hole below the seat back.

MJPetersen · Oct 7, 2009

bobidy said:
will I need to remove the arms for that special link ?
I do have another longer top link I can use if needed. the one on there now I had to cut and weld back together to make it work with the mower. At least I will have one for a tiller when I get one.
I figure that is going to be my next implement for the tractor. what little box blade type work I have at this point I am going to try and do with the fel bucket.

Put that top link and the bracket together on a shelf somewhere in anticipation of getting a tiller.

Use the longer one for connecting to the mower. Actually many guys just use a chain for the top-link on a rotary mower like you have. The reason being is that it can ride on the tail-wheel and will stay with the ground rather than waving around like a dog's tail as the tractor goes over humps and dips. Having a flex connection to the mower is not a bad thing.

Mike