Up on 2 wheels, need new underwear

[rbargeron]

The element of TRUTH in all these posts is that the top link needs to be able to get shorter with a rotary mower. And it needs to resist lengthening beyond a certain point so you can lift it. Someone with a relatively smooth place can use a fixed link and let the flex link supplied with the mower do any minor adjustments. But if you have moguls, use a chain. Or get some sheep. Whatever you do - be safe...no more 2-wheeling, with or without Depends !

 

[Von]

Wen,
The chain only allows excess movement in one direction. You can lift the mower because the chain is only so long, and it allows the mower to move up in the rear so you do have to use common sense on how steep to go with the tractor. So a chain is more than having no top link at all, and does work well when used for this purpose. I set the chain so it is as long as my solid top link.

Von

 

[geneP]

Paul, do you normally lower your control handle to the float position when you are using your mower? I suspect you do since the mower lowers enough to make the top link reverse the swivel on the mower. I believe you could eliminate the problem by setting your stop on your control lever to where the front of the mower is just off the ground. Then if you hit a bump or back up the hill to the level spot, the tractor will keep the mower up and it won't have a chance to reverse the swivel as it does now. I agree with Wen on his point about the top link restricting undesirable pitching of rear of the mower upwards and in the direction of the operator. I've never heard of this happening, but that doesn't mean it hasn't or won't.

 

[gordon]

After reading all of todays posts I finally can picture what was happening. Good description Gene! I agree with von about the chain the only thing to remember with a chain is if you backup onto a hill or a short steep bank you have a chance of binding the pto shaft. Because there is nothing to stop the mower from raising until the shaft bottoms out--depending on your shaft lengh. But I would take that possibility over two wheels any day of the week.

Gordon

 

[PaulB]

I do not know if my tractor (B1700) has a true float position or not, but if it does it must be at the "1" on the position control, right? I run my mower with the position control set between 6 and 8 (all the way up) and by the time I get the lever to 5 the front edge of the mower is touching the ground. Maybe all of my problems stem from a tall mower relative to my tractor? I have a 4 foot King Kutter, and as I have posted before I had trouble with the initial set-up of the mower because the pins for my lift arms are so high off the ground relative to the position of my lift arms that even with the mower on the ground 75% of the range of motion of my 3 point is used up. If I had turf tires the tractor would sit even lower, and I might not be able to raise the mower even to mowing height I would guess, but my ag tires add a few inches of height.

 

[MarkV]

PaulB - There was a rather heated dicussion about top link chains on "that other board". Might want to do a search and see what was said. Like here, there were good points for chain always or chain never.

 

[PaulB]

Mark - been there, read it, still confused!!!

 

[geneP]

Paul, You are correct about position "1" being the float position. However, the lift will float up from any position you run it. I assumed that you were running it at a low number for the cutter to get low enough to raise your tractor when your top link jammed. After the full weight of the mower contacts the ground, it can float up(unless restricted by the top link). After that point, the lower the number on your position control, the lower the mower can go if the ground "falls" out from under it.

 

[MarkV]

Paul - I hear you!