Using rear remotes for flail ditch mower instead of top and tilt?

smithmillworks · Mar 9, 2021

Hey first time posting, long time lurking. I have gotten a bunch of great information from here over the years and I appreciate it greatly.

I have a question about how to configure my hydraulic setup to accommodate an articulating flail mower (ditch mower).
I am still pre-purchase on the flail as I am trying to see if its going to be cost-prohibitive to modify the hydraulics to run it.

Setup:
Kubota MX4800 w/loader
dealer installed front hydraulic ports for grapple
dealer installed 2 rear remotes for top and tilt currently installed (adjustable lever control style)

So the Flail needs two cylinders to operate one to push it out to the side and one to tilt. Currently, the top and tilt occupies both the rear remotes and I am trying to figure out the best way to operate the flail cylinders. I don't really need them to operate at the same time as the top and tilt.

some thoughts:

If I disconnect the top and tilt and plug in the flail will the cylinders stay in place?
I could uninstall the top and tilt and put in a solid link for running the mower(seems like a pain)
I found some hydraulic port multipliers but needing 2 of them at 500$ each seemed excessive
installing a new multiport control valve, seems ok but requires abandoning the existing stock control levers for the top and tilt.

Anyone have any ideas on the best way to accomplish this?

Thanks for all the input!

Snowlan · Mar 9, 2021

If you can find a spot to add a T in the hoses to both sides of one of the remotes you can keep the existing remotes as is and add an electric control panel for extra remotes installed on the back somewhere. I like that option because it involves buying fewer ports than the multiplier option since you don't loose the existing remotes and it is cleaner in the operating station because you don't need to route hoses up there.

/pine · Mar 9, 2021

If there is no place for the fluid to go the cylinders (T&T) can't move...just disconnect the hoses and plug in the mower hoses to the remotes...no need to buy anything...

ericm979 · Mar 9, 2021

/pine said:
If there is no place for the fluid to go the cylinders (T&T) can't move...just disconnect the hoses and plug in the mower hoses to the remotes...no need to buy anything...

Yep.

If you want to avoid the minor hassle of unplugging the TnT cylinders you could add a set of two valves. Putting them on the right fender would make them close to hand. And you could make one or both of them valves with float, which would be a must for a ditch bank mower so it can follow the contour of the ground. A good quality two spool valve with float is about $250-300. You can also use a loader joystick valve if that would be better ergonomically. You'd need to fab a bracket for the valve and the additional quick connects, and run some hoses. But it would let you keep your TnT in place and operational while running the ditch bank properly.

for example you could use this joystick

Hydraulic Control Valve Tractor Loader, Joystick, 2 Spool w/Single Float 11 GPM: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

and plumb the raise/lower with float into the mower's angle cylinder and the dump/curl into the cylinder that extends and retracts the mower. That would be more intuitive than two generic valve handles, though if you always connect it the same way eventually you'll learn which is which.

If you have the Kubota factory valves I think there is a kit to add float.

droptop · Mar 9, 2021

Another way to add additional hydraulic circuits is by adding a diverter valve to one of the existing circuits. These are a cheaper than adding more valves to the tractor. they are good options for functions that are not used much. This would be a lot more operator friendly than swapping hoses ever time you wanted a different function. You can even stack these to operate 2,3 or even 4 separate circuits off of a single control valve. Below is a typical valve, you can get cheaper ones, but this one had good schematics to show the concept. It can be mounted on the tractor or on the implement to shorten the hoses needed.

Amazon.com: Hydraulic Solenoid Selector/Diverter Valve, 13 GPM, 12v DC: Home Improvement

smithmillworks · Mar 9, 2021

Wow! Thanks for the great responses. I thought I might just be able to use them as is but wanted to make sure it wouldn't cause any issues.

ericm979 said:
Yep.

If you want to avoid the minor hassle of unplugging the TnT cylinders you could add a set of two valves. Putting them on the right fender would make them close to hand. And you could make one or both of them valves with float, which would be a must for a ditch bank mower so it can follow the contour of the ground. A good quality two spool valve with float is about $250-300. You can also use a loader joystick valve if that would be better ergonomically. You'd need to fab a bracket for the valve and the additional quick connects, and run some hoses. But it would let you keep your TnT in place and operational while running the ditch bank properly.

for example you could use this joystick

Hydraulic Control Valve Tractor Loader, Joystick, 2 Spool w/Single Float 11 GPM: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Hydraulic Control Valve Tractor Loader, Joystick, 2 Spool w/Single Float 11 GPM: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

and plumb the raise/lower with float into the mower's angle cylinder and the dump/curl into the cylinder that extends and retracts the mower. That would be more intuitive than two generic valve handles, though if you always connect it the same way eventually you'll learn which is which.

If you have the Kubota factory valves I think there is a kit to add float.

This is a great idea, it seemed so unintuitive for just two random levers to control it but makes complete sense to create a secondary joystick w/float.
Seems like it would just take the two spool valve, two tee's, two hoses, a couple of various adaptors and 4 quick connects and it would be good to go.

You guys rock!