Backhoe Utility Backhoe

[DieselMonk]

As a few of you know I have a TC55DA with a Laurin cab. I found yesterday a nice used 757 utility backhoe year 2000, which I am very interested on buying. Question is how long does it take you guys, that have one, to install or drop the backhoe part? Is it some kind of quick attach, or do I have to remove the whole thing with the frame? I wanna be able to lose that backhoe in a hurry and pick up a bushhog or vise versa. Soooo how long does it take ya guys to switch those implements? /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Edit: Also is there any difference on having a frame for the backhoe or is it fine on hooking her up on the 3 point hitch?

 

[AndyMA]

I used a 758 on a 2120 (same frame as TC55) for years. subframe. 2 minutes off, on could be 15 minutes or several hours depending on alignment. Subframe would be better, but 757 is a small hoe so 3pt would probably be ok.

Andy

 

[GATC35]

You are better off with a subframe. They are allot more stronger and don't put as much stress on the tractor. I have a 757-c on a TC-45 and previously had the same hoe on a TC-35. It is a great piece of equipment. Mine has the subframe and I can drop it off in 3 minutes and put it back on in 10. I would stay away from the 3 point hitch types. I have even heard of stories of braking the tractor case in half. I also heard a story where the top link failed and the hoe rotated upwards and killed the operator. Installing the mounts, brackets, etc on your tractor is fairly easy also. You will need some large 3/4 drive sockets. The hydraulic power beyond kit is also a easy installation.

 

[MikefromMI]

ON 15-20 min. Level makes all the difference.
Off couple mins.

If you purchase make sure you take off your 3-point arms before installing the Back-Hoe. It will go on. But I bent the heck out of the 3-point arm extension (release) on one side while swinging the boom. It's only 4 lynch pins to get the arms off.

The Back-Hoe doesn't effect any of my 3-pt. attachments.

My dealer told me the New Holland warranty is voided if a 3-pt Back-Hoe breaks anything. Several times I've lifted the front end clear off the ground while stuck in tree roots. I wouldn't put that stress on the 3pt.

 

[DieselMonk]

Thanks guys for the posts! I am getting the 757 backhoe deliverd to try without the frame. If I like it my dealer will readjust the frame to fit my TC55DA as the hoe came of a TC45DA. Is there anything else on that backhoe, that I should look out for? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[GATC35]

Just keep it greased well. I bought a pneumatic grease gun from Northern. The type you slide a cartridge in, then hook a air hose to it. To do the tractor, front end loader and backhoe the correct way I use over one tube of grease.

Also be careful when retracting the stabilizers. If you hold the retract lever in the full retract postion against the stop they move very fast. They will "slam" againt the up stops. If your feet are not down on the platform you may have a chance of getting bitten. Once you sit on the hoe you will understand what I'm talking about. Don't ask how I know this ! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[DieselMonk]

I guess you got "bitten" ???? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[MikefromMI]

I've almost been bit. Watch those things.

Only other thing I could think of.... Mine came with a wide bucket. I believe 24". I recently purchased a 9". It cut my dig time in half (trenching only) and is alot easier on the tractor. I was upset it ran me like 300$. But now I feel it was a good investment. Just something to keep in mind...

 

[AndyMA]

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If you purchase make sure you take off your 3-point arms before installing the Back-Hoe. It will go on. But I bent the heck out of the 3-point arm extension (release) on one side while swinging the boom. It's only 4 lynch pins to get the arms off.
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I ran a 758 on a 2120 for over 10 years and on that setup with the subframe, you needed to remove the 3 point arms as the subframe used the lower pins as it's rear mointing point.

Andy

 

[MikefromMI]

The manual says to remove them. I actually read up here somewhere that on the class II's they could be left on. And they can. Just have to be very careful where they end up. It was one of the cylinders for swinging the boom that just caught enough of the latch to bend it up. It's better if you don't have the choice to be "lazy" on the 2120. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif