vacuum oil from sump

[deereman64]

I just purchased a boat and I thought it would be a good idea to remove the engine oil myself. My father used to do this but usually ended up with most of the oil in the bilgeas he would do it via the drain plug. Perhaps the fact he owned shares in BP explains some of this. Any way, I purchased a vacuum pump (hand) to remove the oil and decided to test it out on my Deere 2210. To be quite honest not impressed. I removed the drain plug after no more would come out and there must have been at a couple of cups left. So, perhaps those who go to Quickie Lube etc beware

 

[travis potter]

All of the oil change Co. I have used pull the drain plug. A frind worked at a place that had a bunch of comuter cars and they vaccumed the oil but they changed it every 30 days even if it had only a few miles on it but they were a oil co.had plenty of oil.

 

[RalphVa]

I bought a Pela oil extractor from the DR folks. Have tried it on almost everything I own with oil in it. On the tractor, it sucked out EVERYTHING. Nary a drop came out with the drain plug out.

I'd get one and use it on your boat. Unless the sump has a splash baffle or something to keep the tube from going most of the way to the bottom of the sump, it should work fine. My VW Cabrio has such a baffle, and it didn't work on it. Worked on everything else.

Ralph

 

[MontanaMEL]

You got that right...but, here are some thoughts from someone that ran a 460cid Ford Jet boat for nearly 20 years...with a Dooley pan, 14 qt capacity...hi lift Isky cam, etc...toys!

You need to have your oil warm, very warm to hot even for such methods to have any chance of working "near" correct...Cold oil will not "flow" very well, specially in very small tubes, like the 1/4" you are most likely using down the dip stick hole...

Cut the end of that suction tube at about 30 deg...so you can't "suck it down" on the pan bottom...and it should just "touch the pan, not be bowed out into the pan cavity at the bottom, if possible... IF YOU HAVE SOME HYBRID OPENING, WHERE A BIGGER TUBE WILL FIT, USE IT BY ALL MEANS...it will work about 200% better if you can use 5/16" or 3/8" tubing!!!... AND:::

Remember to try and position the boat (on a trailer I am guessing) so that "spot" below the dip stick tube is "LOWER" than any other...block the tires, elevate the trailer nose/hitch, etc...use the street curb...be creative. IF you are in the water...be careful...there are all sorts of ****'s out there looking for an "oil spill" in the harbors these days...same goes for pumping your bilges when cleaning up, eh?... We always grabbed the dish washing soap after such operations, shot a bunch down there and added some fresh water, say 3 or 4 gal, and hauled out...drove around the parking lot a couple of times and pulled the plugs...hosed out with fresh water when we got home, before parking the boat...flushed the engine then too.

As for "some" being left...as long as you get 80% or more...you'll be OK...BUT, remember to change your oil more often than just once per year...think "operating hours"...Think 50 hr max between changes and you'll be OK...more often IF you push things to the max, power wise... ALWAYS change the filter and clean out your fuel filter at each LOF change. Check any buddy bearings on your trailer wheels then too...For ANY marine usage, I would suggest a heavier weight of oil...say a 20W50, rather than some 5W30 or 10W30...even a plain 30wt...IF it has the API ring on it and says at least an SJ or SM rating...long hi-throttle runs will tend to shear thin lighter wt oils, unless you have some very cold water for cooling, or can adjust high flow rates in warmer water...ALSO..big block engines will always tend to "use some oil", like a quart or 2 per 30-50 hours ... I would NOT suggest the use of any special, pure synthetic PAO based oils in such an application, due to that shear thining issue again...any thick syn/PAO oil will still need changing just as often...ergo, no savings like on a "constant temp" application like on a car..with a radiator, etc..

Good luck,
God Bless

Mel

 

[Diamondpilot]

I work on boats as a part time job. What motor do you have? The reason I ask is most motors now day have a aftermarket drain and filter system available. If not I make my own. I have tried every oil extractor with limited success.

What I do on a new motor is figure out what thread the drain plug is. I also cross the filter over to a common filter brand like Fram. I then suck all the oil I can and then pull the filter and drain plug getting all out possible. I then install a remote filter kit making the filter easy to get to and then install a hydraulic grade fitting in place of the drain plug, a quality brass ball valve, attach a length of 3/8" or 1/4" hydraulic hose (must be small enough to go though the drain plug hole). Now take your drain plug and drill and tap it in the center and install a screw. This will hold a piece of small nylon rope that attaches to the drain hose.


When its time to drain simply warm it up, pull the drain plug, pull the rope to bring the hose out, open the brass ball valve and you drain it easily out the back of the boat with no mess.

When done draining simply pull the hose back in the bilge, and install a safety cap on the hose or simply tie wrap up the hose to the top of the engine. Some also tie wrap the ball valve closed if possible.

Chris