Just changed the right front axle seal on my 2002 4310 hydro MFWD and noticed it was not vented (front axle). Email JD and got no response so I made one my self. Bought a grade five 3/4-10 one inch bolt from Running's 93 cents. Cut off about 1/3 of the threads. Drilled from the top about half way down with small drill then 21/64 drill and taped it for 1/8th pipe thread. Drilled the rest of the way through the bolt wit 1/8th drill. Bought a Alemite Air Vent Fitting Breather 1/8 inch pipe (.93 cents) and put with some pipe dope in the bolt. I also added an o-ring on the bolt so I could hand tighten it only in the axle fill hole for easy hand removal. I was going to add a tig weld 1/8 square stock stem on the bottom of the bolt as a dipstick but I carry the original one in the tractor so I didn't see a reason to do so. Paul C.
Venting the front axle on CUTs(with pics)
- Thread starter Rob-D
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beenthere
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- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
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I just leave the dipstick plug loose.. and it works well to vent.
A pic or two of your fix would be great. Click the "go advanced" button by the Post Quick Reply and you can upload pics into your post.
I just leave the dipstick plug loose.. and it works well to vent.
A pic or two of your fix would be great. Click the "go advanced" button by the Post Quick Reply and you can upload pics into your post.
Hi, just got done taking some pictures and down loading them into my computer for the venting the front axle on my 4310 MFWD JD tractor beenthere and here they are. The o-ring I use came from a two dollar kit I bought at Harbor Freight it's a P16 (15.8 x2.4 mm Nitrile). I probably could have taken more off the bolt but I wanted enough material to drill and tap and it's still way above the oil level in any kind of tractor possible angle anyway. The bolt was a zinc plated grade 5. I have a Pontiac T/A I bought new in 1973 when I was 21 and I noticed it was leaking gear oil out the right rear wheel so I change the seal but it reappeared every 6 to 8 years and I would change the seal and bearing, again and again. Finally a friend asked me a couple of years ago if I checked the vent, a little plastic push in unit like the one in the picture and sure enough it was plugged. The oil will blow the seals if it gets hot and expands. You also see the 1/8 inch square stock I bought but don't think I'll use it. Hope this helps you out . Paul C.
By the way the unit should be checked and cleaned every so often say yearly or every other year to make sure it's functioning correctly.
By the way the unit should be checked and cleaned every so often say yearly or every other year to make sure it's functioning correctly.
Last edited:
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,528
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Thanks for the pics.. very clever design and machining for a good vent solution. Nice contribution to the TBN archives.
No problem buddy. In my crazier day when racing on circle tracks we would use what is called a roll over check valve for our fuel tanks. It's the same kinda valve but it contains a check ball inside which would seal it self in the event of a roll over. Much more expensive though and I think unnecessary in this application. You see them in 4 wheeler's and some dirt bikes and water immersing vehicles now. Paul C.
