Waste oil furnace again

stnickstoys · Feb 15, 2003

Ealisimi are you still out there? Just looking for some thoughts. I built the mother stove and does it get hot!! I have noticed that if I give it a fairly steady stream of oil it gets to a point where it makes a fluttering sound and the flames try coming out around my door. I did weld on flanges around it but have not yet installed gaskets for tight seal. I was going to skip that if I didn't need it. I get huge puffs of smoke coming out around the door and even a little flame. Do you think I will have to go with the door gasket idea? I noticed that when it does that huffing/fluttering sound of I lay a piece of flat steel across the intake to slow some of the air going in it stops doing that right away. It almost seems like my draft is too good and if I cut off some of the intake air it then behaves itself. I was going to raise up the funnel a little more but since I discovered the air intake control idea I haven't yet. It's about 3/4 to 1 inch above the upper brake drum. Anyones ideas would be helpful.

Other than that I can't wait to make a surround for it and get a fan hooked up. It really makes heat. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Thanks
Nick

beenthere · Feb 15, 2003

When my wood stove (boiler) starts that puffing and fluttering I have learned that it is incomplete combustion of fuel and those are mini explosions - blowing smoke and non-combusted gases out the intake draft. I find that the fire is too hot and there is too much wood being converted to combustable gas, but not enough intake air OR not enough draft up the smoke stack for good combustion to take place. I find that opening the door may cause a big fireball to erupt into the room, because those hot gases just need some air to burn "right now". Similar to damping off the intake and then opening the door for a rush of fresh air, and whooomph! - fireball.

I think you may be over feeding the oil and exceeding the limits of the furnace. Just my opinion, but there is a limit to how much the furnace can handle, and you may be finding that limit. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

stnickstoys · Feb 16, 2003

Thanks beenthere, I was starting to think the same the more I mess around with this furnace. It really makes good heat and I too was thinking that I may have reached the limits. What made me think that was that the smoke is really black when it's acting like that . Similar to an engine that's running rich or fuel heavy.
Nick

ealasimi · Feb 16, 2003

Nick, I am still here. Been a busy couple of weeks around the house and work, so not much time to check out the web.
I did have very similar problems with mine also. I do think you are feeding too much at one time. What are your intake and exhaust pipe diameters? Maybe you have too much being sucked into the stove and not enough being pushed out. That may be causing the puffing. Mine intake is 3 inches and exhaust is 6 inches.
With just oil I seem to have the same problem.With some diesel added to my fuel I think I have a better fuel mixture, I have also added used mineral spirits to my oil. I can get it from a commercial painting company. It seems to work well also, use about 1 qt. to 5-qt. oil.
I am going to keep my burner in the woodstove I have. It works great, go though about 6-7 gallons over a weekend. Not bad for free heat. The temps have been around zero and the shop gets warm in about 1 1/2 hours. I did not put gaskets on the door, I don't think they are needed.
Will keep posting.

stnickstoys · Feb 17, 2003

Thanks again for the info. I have a 6" exhaust and a 4" intake as described in the Mothers plans. If I cover the intake pipe just slightly it quits the fluttering and puffing. I have only been using straight engine oil, haven't tried cutting it down yet. Maybe I'm getting too much unburnt fuel that way and the stove is trying to catch up and burn the excess causing the huffing. Certainly gets your attention when a flame jumps out around the door a foot or so!

Does your fuel/oil mix separate when it stands? I was thinking that I would have to mix it once in a while if I mixed it up ahead of time.

I still haven't tried veggie oil yet. Waiting for the local restaurant to get my drum filled. I'm guessing I will have to keep a jug warm cause it will turn to lard sitting in my 10 degree shop overnight.

I will try the fuel oil mixed in today. No school, President's day. Play day in the shop! Check back with you later.
Nick

ealasimi · Feb 23, 2003

Nick, how is the burner going. I tried some used hydraulic oil this weekend. Did not get the same results as motor oil, seemed to burn at a lower temp and had to feed more than I usually do to get the shop warmed up. I will stay with the motor oil I have been getting. My burner seems to be at its best design, little burn out on the materials, should last through the winter. I am going to build a couple of burners so when they start to show problems I will have replace parts available. My only problem has been in the oil clogging up in the ¼ inch feed tube. I am going to increase in size to 5/16 or 3/8 inch. I am also going to fabricate an oil tank which does not feed from the bottom, seems that causes a problem with the feed. Materials that are mixed with the oil, plug up the valve. This has been a good project and hope others will try it. Please keep posting, as I will, with any developments

stnickstoys · Feb 24, 2003

Hi Ealisimi,
I haven't had as much shop time as hoped. I made the intake pipe and funnel assembly out of galvanized stove pipe. Doesn't seem to be getting burned up yet. Not sure why. I haven't had too many days of running the stove to red hot, maybe that's helping. I am still burning engine oil, hyd/trans oil mix from my tractors. Seems to be burning hot, is leaving burned residue on the top of the brake drum after several hours more than likely from incomplete burn. The burner design with the heavy cast pan on the bottom and the brake drum on top is working very well. No signs of distortion from heat yet, only periodic cleaning needed. The mortar lining on the pan seems to be doing the job but is coming off after many hot cold cycles. To control the flare ups and fluttering I simply set a small piece of steel over the intake pipe to cut some of the air going in. Once I get it set and burning it works well. I only wish I had the ceiling in my polebuilding shop to keep some of the heat in. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Sure is keeping the snow sliding off the roof nicely. I'm pretty sure when I get a ceiling in it will heat my shop comfortably. I used a stainless milking machine bucket for my reservoir and place the tap about 1" off the bottom. This allows for settling of the gunk in the oil and protects the valve from plugging. I use several screens on the oil before it goes in so really hasn't been a problem. I used 3/8 soft copper so I don't have any flow problems. Also put in one extra turn around the exhaust flue to warm the oil more. I also tried mixing in a little diesel to thin the oil a little and that has also helped. Next I plan to build a sheet metal cabinet to move the air around the heater and direct it into the center of the shop more. Salvaged a furnace fan to help with that. Hope to get that done soon. Tractor sales are picking up again so have to stick with the tractors as best as I can.
That's the latest from nicks

CTyler · Feb 24, 2003

A cheap ceiling fan or blower would help keep the heat from collecting up top and keep you warmer.

stnickstoys · Feb 25, 2003

Need a ceiling first. That's the next project
/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

CTyler · Feb 25, 2003

My shop isn't built yet /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif weather is holding things up. I won't install a ceiling or finishing the inside for about year. I'm going to install a couple ceiling fans higher up between the trusses.

Not sure what your building has but there should be a truss or beam to hang a fan or two temporarily. Just an idea.