Water Line Question

[dthomas]

Hayes,

Class 160 pvc is rated at 160 psi and the inside diameter of class 160, 3/4 pipe is not much different than the inside diameter of one inch sch 40. Go to a hardware store and take a look. Be sure to buy <font color=red> cleaner </font color=red>and glue. I prefer purple cleaner and Rain-R-Shine (blue) glue. Be sure to clean both the male and female ends then apply glue to the male then the female. Apply only a light coat inside the female because all the excess will be deposited inside the pipe. When you stick it together...twist the pipe inside the bell 1/4 turn to even out the glue. I have used this combination to glue a valve on under pressure (with the valve open). Operators swear that they have glued up to a three inch valve on under pressure. If I knew the elevation difference and how much you would like to flow and what residual pressure you would like have, I could run the hydraulics...but, given the limiting factor of your pressure tank, I would just go with class 160 pvc, 3/4 pipe. This can even be laid with a chisel plow if you don't have rocks or roots, etc. Glue your straight runs of pipe together. Let it set 24 hours. Make two or three passes (in the same trench) with the plow then tie the pipe behind the plow point and pull it from point a to point b. Of course you have to dig out the ends to make your tie ins. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Donald

 

[Calpyro]

I hope I don't offend anybody by jumping in to the conversation, but here I go...
I finished a little plumbing project this summer. I ran 2" PVC from my 5 HP well all over my yard, a total of 1700' in all.
I am really pleased with the water flow and would suggest that you go with 2" the whole way. By doing so you leave the possibility of extending each line in the future and you maximize the flows possible to each spigot. I would simply use a 1" steel pipe riser to each spigot and top it off with the biggest 1" faucet available.
As a career fireman, I have never said that I have "too much water"
Cameron

 

[JJT]

I'm with Hayden on this one. The 500+' well only has 1" pipe - why go any larger? Around here, (milk country), you can get the 160psi pipe in 660 foot rolls.

 

[cowboydoc]

Boy I have to agree there. I just don't see how you're going to gain anything going from 1" down to 2" and back down to 1" again for your faucets or hydrants. I am not aware of any faucets or hydrants that are 2", at least for home or farm use. I mean I know they are out there but not for most of our uses. I certainly don't see any harm in doing it just don't see the advantage.

 

[Calpyro]

I suppose the main advantage of using larger pipe is that you can reduce the friction loss in the piping from the well to the furthest spigot to virtually nothing by using large pipe. In principal, if the well is capable of producing 25 gallons per minute, this flow would be available at the most distant spigot. Using smaller pipe creates more friction loss, which results in less water where you need it. While your well may have 1" pipe in the casing, you can certainly use larger pipe from that point on to reduce the friction loss and obtain maximum flows.
I will use my well as and example. My 5HP pump has 1-1/2" pipe in the casing and produces 55 gpm at the well head. 600' feet away, through 2" pipe, I still get 48 gpm. I spent a ton of money on my well and I want to be able to get all of the water flow available, even if I never need it. In comparison, PVC pipe is much cheaper than the well and the pump.
Speaking like a fireman for a minute. If you use big pipe, you can get outfit your new barn with a valve and fire department threads. You then could attach a length of small fire hose and nozzle for general cleanup and fire control in the event of a fire.
Good luck,
Cameron