Water Well Drilling
- Thread starter Bigtoe1
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DavidJ
Gold Member
We use a hand auger to drill wells around here in sandy soil. If it's really sandy you'll need to sink a casing with it. Take a look at the following site for the kind of auger we use. http://www.globaldrilsup.com/
If you're decent at welding you can buy a mobile home ty-down anchor and weld a 1" pipe coupling to the rod and a short piece of 3-1/2" thinwall pipe to the top of the flight to make your own auger then just use lengths of pipe to screw it into the ground. If you'll look on page 5 of this document you'll see an example of what the final product will look like. Shallow Well Drill Sets
If you're decent at welding you can buy a mobile home ty-down anchor and weld a 1" pipe coupling to the rod and a short piece of 3-1/2" thinwall pipe to the top of the flight to make your own auger then just use lengths of pipe to screw it into the ground. If you'll look on page 5 of this document you'll see an example of what the final product will look like. Shallow Well Drill Sets
daedong
Veteran Member
Hi
I hope this make sense, please forgive me if it does not.
I have put down several bores to about 36 feet in clay useing a home made tool and mains water.
This is done using lenghts of 3/4 water pipe
First pipe has an arrow welded on the end in such a manner to allow water to squirt towards the arrow head.
The top of the pipe has a snap lock garden hose fiting attached so you can connect the garden hose.
Use a wooden handle that clamps around the pipe so you can turn the pipe and arrow, the water assists with the boreing and washes the loosened material to the surfuce. as you go down just keep adding lenghts of pipe, (10 feet is suffice )
Always turn in a clockwise direction so your joins don't undone
I hope this make sense, please forgive me if it does not.
I have put down several bores to about 36 feet in clay useing a home made tool and mains water.
This is done using lenghts of 3/4 water pipe
First pipe has an arrow welded on the end in such a manner to allow water to squirt towards the arrow head.
The top of the pipe has a snap lock garden hose fiting attached so you can connect the garden hose.
Use a wooden handle that clamps around the pipe so you can turn the pipe and arrow, the water assists with the boreing and washes the loosened material to the surfuce. as you go down just keep adding lenghts of pipe, (10 feet is suffice )
Always turn in a clockwise direction so your joins don't undone
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DavidJ
Gold Member
We call that jetting a well down here and it works really well where you have a supply of water to begin with. We've also used a gasoline driven pump to supply the pressure if it's close to a pond, creek or other source.
rrw1238
Member
A lot of people around here drive them with a tool that is just about like a T post driver only it is big enough to fit over 1 1/4 pipe. Its normally just used for lawn watering and only about 25 feet or less deep. They use 5 foot lengths of pipe with a well point at the tip and a heavey screw on cap at the top. As it goes down they add a length of pipe and move the cap up to the top of the next joint of pipe. This in the Rio Grande Valley
RichC
New member
I wonder if a rental yard might have a rig like this:
http://www.portadrillmini.com/index.html
If you do drill your own well, let us know how it goes. I have an interest in the same.
Thanks,
-Rich
http://www.portadrillmini.com/index.html
If you do drill your own well, let us know how it goes. I have an interest in the same.
Thanks,
-Rich
JazzDad
Gold Member
Hello BigToe. I looked into one of those units. Our well, professionally drilled to 240 feet, was much less expensive than buying one of those rigs. Of course, the sales literature says you can then sell the unit and recoup some of your initial outlay. (Or, you can read that backwards, and go look for someone else selling their used unit. You could even benefit from their experience, unless they were not successful and are just trying to recoup THEIR loss!) Our driller had lots of sand until he hit lots of rock.
Can be expensive...............
We just had an irrigation well dug. The driller used a 40HP tractor and manufactured rig to dig a 6+ inch hole
about 60 ft. Worked fine, he sunk the casing and we now have cheaper lawn water.
BUT, he told me the week before, he broke the auger off and lost about 30FT of auger and the bit. No choice
for him but to buy more, move over a couple feet and start over....................... Don't think he made any
money that day--and he said his insurance was like $1200 a month............
A lot of work to do it commercially, a lot of investment, and working hard for every dollar he earns!
Take Care,
Ron
We just had an irrigation well dug. The driller used a 40HP tractor and manufactured rig to dig a 6+ inch hole
about 60 ft. Worked fine, he sunk the casing and we now have cheaper lawn water.
BUT, he told me the week before, he broke the auger off and lost about 30FT of auger and the bit. No choice
for him but to buy more, move over a couple feet and start over....................... Don't think he made any
money that day--and he said his insurance was like $1200 a month............
A lot of work to do it commercially, a lot of investment, and working hard for every dollar he earns!
Take Care,
Ron
blazebfd
New member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2005
- Messages
- 2
- Location
- Aggieland TX
- Tractor
- 1970 MF 30 Industrial, 1984 Kubota M4050, 1953 Farmall Super C, 194? Farmall A, Bobcat w/Case backhoe
Hearne, TX? I built my own version of a Hydradrill. Earthquake auger, vertical frame and 3/4" black pipe for drill tool. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Harrygoodwrench
Gold Member
I've driven a point for a hand pump(drill point with 1 1/2" pipe) by hand. A lot of work bt hit water about 25 feet or so. Trouble is driving a point and if ya hit stone its he almost impossible to back it out even turning it. Took me half a day getting one out when my FIL hit rock doing his.
I'd like to see that homebuilt version of hydrodrill.
I'd like to see that homebuilt version of hydrodrill.