Water Well manifold

   / Water Well manifold #1  

StanR

Gold Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
280
Location
Houston, TX
Tractor
Kubota M7040
The time has come to bury some water and electric lines. I got the electric and the actual lines covered.

My googled and found almost zero on the well manifold.

All the water lines will be poly... starting with 1.25 then to 1 then to 3/4 inch

I have 100 ft 1.25 300 ft of 1 and 200 feet of 3/4

I have going to have 3 zones, 2 hose bibs at the well, and want room for expansion.

I cut the pieces for a dry run and need suggestions for improvement.

The pvc will start at the shut off value..

005.jpg


This is my first mock up... but not sure I need the unions. I do want to be able to shut off each zone if needed

I left the spaced between connections incase something is needed later.

008.jpg


I have not decided how to do the tso hose bibs.. but on the way to lowes.

006-1.jpg



Also any preference on screw clamps or oetiker clamps. I have heard the oetiker clamps are prefered.

Thanks for you help. The trenching will start Thursday about 7 am... going down 24 inches.
 
   / Water Well manifold
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Why the individual line shutoff's after the union?:)

3 zones that way I can shut them off individually.

Zones to trailer, storage container, and front gate.

I think I can do without the unions since there will be a connection between the pvc and poly.. that I can rebuild from if needed.
 
   / Water Well manifold #4  
Is that PVC UV stabilised? I've had some that rotten in the sun, it got very brittle.
 
   / Water Well manifold #5  
I ran two lines to the house and two to the shop, that way if one fails I have anouther as a spare. I have a 250 ft run to the house and used 1.5 inch pipe, mainly as it was easier to transport. For me the pipe is the cheap part, digging the trench in the rock was the expencive part.
My irrigation lines are all above ground, all 2 inch, I put a ball valve at the end of the the run to flush the algae out.
I am not a fan of steel pipe even galvanised it rusts, it flakes off, it causes a lot of problems a few years down the road.
 
   / Water Well manifold
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Is that PVC UV stabilised? I've had some that rotten in the sun, it got very brittle.

Not sure it is sch 40 I am getting at lowes... The PVC will be in the well house . Might take a little bit to get the built.
 
   / Water Well manifold #7  
At first, I thought I'd reverse the valves and the unions. But since you are going from PVC to poly, you don't really need the unions, unless you want to be able to get into the poly lines with out having to fight the barbs. If that were the case, then I'd put the unions after the valves. With the way you have it now you have to shut the whole system down to break the zone line at the union. YMMV.
Rick
 
   / Water Well manifold
  • Thread Starter
#8  
At first, I thought I'd reverse the valves and the unions. But since you are going from PVC to poly, you don't really need the unions, unless you want to be able to get into the poly lines with out having to fight the barbs. If that were the case, then I'd put the unions after the valves. With the way you have it now you have to shut the whole system down to break the zone line at the union. YMMV.
Rick



Good point... Thanks

Kinda like this water supply in the back middle... two place for bibs and the end for expansion...

013.jpg
 
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