Water Well Pressure

Beltzington · Oct 1, 2011

What are my options to increase pressure and maintain flow from my well?

My pump will move 10gal/minute for at least two hours (longest I tested for) at pump pressure. I have a 20-30 gallon pressure tank and switch that starts pump at 25psi and shuts it off at 50psi.

With this setup garden hose pressure is pathetic, trying to wash dirt off my tractor and attachments is useless. What I would like is at least the same pressure and flow as in my suburban home which is 75psi and unlimited.

I have read some similar posts but still unclear on the best solution. My best guess would be using a cistern with a higher pressure pump but would appreciate your ideas. No house is connected to this well. TIA

Gods Country · Oct 1, 2011

I doubt you will be able to go beyond 60psi. You could try to change to a 40/60 switch if you feel you won't damage your plumbing, should be OK.
Be sure your high pressure relief valve on your tank or water heater won't blow.

You could always investigate your options to increase your water volume with a larger supply line either from your well or to your spigot. I知 just guessing at this point though.

tnmike · Oct 1, 2011

I personaly wouldn't mess with what you have. If you want more pressure for farm implements, buy a pressure washer.

Egon · Oct 1, 2011

buy a pressure washer./QUOTE]

Yes!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

LarryD · Oct 1, 2011

Well you could spend a lot of money and install a constant pressure pump. They are variable speed and maintain pressure based on demand.
Or just adjust your pressure switch like I did. Mine is set for 40/65. I like this setting because when I have two sprinklers going or filling the horse troughs the pump just runs. No short cycling.

skipmarcy · Oct 1, 2011

30/50 psi works great for my house but also make sure your bladder tank air pressure is set correctly - approx. 2 psi less than your cut-in pressure. With above settings you would want 28 psi air pressure with absolutely no water pressure in the tank - turn off the pump, drain off all the water pressure and use an accurate air gauge to read the tank. Depending on where your bladder tank is located, you may need to readjust the air pressure a couple times a year when the ambient air temp changes much as this will change the air pressure in your tank too, just like a car tire in the sun or shade will be quite different. My pumphouse is well insulated but I still have to adjust the air pressure in the late spring and late fall slightly to maintain the same pressures in the house. No big deal, only takes a minute or two.

EagleTDL · Oct 1, 2011

skipmarcy said:
30/50 psi works great for my house but also make sure your bladder tank air pressure is set correctly - approx. 2 psi less than your cut-in pressure. With above settings you would want 28 psi air pressure with absolutely no water pressure in the tank - turn off the pump, drain off all the water pressure and use an accurate air gauge to read the tank. Depending on where your bladder tank is located, you may need to readjust the air pressure a couple times a year when the ambient air temp changes much as this will change the air pressure in your tank too, just like a car tire in the sun or shade will be quite different. My pumphouse is well insulated but I still have to adjust the air pressure in the late spring and late fall slightly to maintain the same pressures in the house. No big deal, only takes a minute or two.

Based on my setup, I have to do exactly what skipmarcy does (and thanks for the reminder to check my bladder pressure now that it's cooling off!

). Lowes, Home Depot, or any reputable Ag store will carry pressure switches. Before you dump a bunch of money, like Gods Country said above, buy you a 40/60 switch. They are only $20 or so and will really make a difference in regards to the pressure at the end of the hose. That's what I use and with the "jet" setting on nozzle, it's more than adequate to clean the worst of the mud off your vehicles.

BeezFun · Oct 1, 2011

If your pressure tank and fittings are old, they could be getting clogged with junk. When I replaced my last tank the outlet fitting at the bottom didn't have more than a pencil sized hole left in a 1" fitting, the rest was plugged with corrosion or whatever. Also if you have 1/2" pipe to your faucets it could be a problem, you might look at changing to 3/4" if it's easy to get at. I'd do a flow test a few different places at the same pressure to see if you can decide if there's an obstruction.

Western · Oct 1, 2011

All great advice here. I use the 40/60 switch on mine currently also.

What I have done and a system my brother uses now, consist of 1000 gallon holding tank (above ground) Well water is pumped into the tank, then a jet pump pulls from the tank into the main supply line. Never had a pressure issue with this set up

Mine supplied water to about 40 pens, the house, 2 barns and the shop. My brothers currently supplies 3 homes, each with a sprinkler system, but they do water on alternating days.

Larry Caldwell · Oct 1, 2011

Most pressure switches are adjustable. One nut changes the cut-in pressure, and the other changes the differential. It's simple to change a 30-50 switch to a 40-60 with a 4" crescent wrench. If you have lost the instructions that came with your switch, look for it online.