weatherproofing metal building against concrete.

[blakester]

hey everyone, I have a metal building on my property and I'm wondering about how to seal the bottom edge. I have attached a picture of what I'm dealing with. one of the issues is that there is a bit of a gap in a number of places. I was thinking of something like blueskin that you paint on, and tuck tape on the inside for the bolt holes. Thoughts. Its worth noting this is just for my workshop.

 

[kc5dlo]

Most of my building had small step around the outside edge. The tin sets on the edge like your first photo. the rest of the slab on the inside was about 1.5" taller. There was no filler strip used as urethane foam was applied inside that sealed everything.

One side however has a porch and the builder poured the slab at the same height so there was no step down to the porch. I did have some problem with water migrating under the wall. I found some sealer in the concrete isle of the big box store that was applied using a caulking gun. I dont remember the name but it was grey in color and lasted 12 or 13 years before needing to be re-applied in a few places. If you have access to the inside area of the photos, applying the sealer on the insdide as well as outside might be your best bet.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Lowes has SikaFlex sealant. One of the best of the urethane products. Apply on both sides where you can. Follow instructions to the letter.

Ron

 

[oosik]

I would go with a urethane product like Tractor Seabee recommends. For those holes - there are snap in hole plugs - fast - weather tight - not that expensive.

 

[woody]

I have the same type building and if my memory is correct I used mortar mix to build up a slope that covered the extra holes and gave the water something to run off of. I did have to go back and seal the top edge of the slope with some sealer.

 

[ustmd]

There should be a piece of flashing at the bottom between the metal and the concrete to divert the water.

Whatever you use, make sure it retains its flexibility over time. The metal will move with temperature changes and most tradition chalks will quickly fail.

Good luck

 

[jfh28]

agree there should have been a single piece of "L" shaped sill flashing installed with the vertical leg inside the building to prevent water intrusion......a commercial grade sealant will be best now and you'll have to accept that you'll need to re-do it periodically......keep in mind you have two very different materials that you will be sealing.......metal and concrete move dramatically different so it will need flexibility and also the adhesion characteristics of metal and concrete are very different so it will need to be aggressive with both porous and non-porous materials.......I'd suggest you stop in at a local metal building supplier or a masonry supply store and see what they recommend.......I don't know if your in termite country but they should have pulled those wood forms out of the ground too....no need to be inviting them onto your property.........Jack

 

[Diggin It]

agree there should have been a single piece of "L" shaped sill flashing installed with the vertical leg inside the building to prevent water intrusion......

....I don't know if your in termite country but they should have pulled those wood forms out of the ground too....no need to be inviting them onto your property........

Those were the two things I noticed earlier just after the thread was posted, but didn't have time to get into.

 

[blakester]

Awesome I have some products to check out, seems like High quality Urethane product for the win. I HAD thought about sloping the concrete with a masonry grinder but I'm sure that's going to be a **** of a job. Will throw that lumber on the burn pile tut-suite. We don't have a lowes in our neighborhood but Home depot is close. Although Maybe gong to our quick-crete / building supply place is a better bet.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Awesome I have some products to check out, seems like High quality Urethane product for the win. I HAD thought about sloping the concrete with a masonry grinder but I'm sure that's going to be a **** of a job. Will throw that lumber on the burn pile tut-suite. We don't have a lowes in our neighborhood but Home depot is close. Although Maybe gong to our quick-crete / building supply place is a better bet.

Home Depot has the Sikaflex products.

Ron