HI I am new to the forum and just bought a MF1723EB. I was wondering if anyone knew the weight of the front bucket of a 1723? I have to take it down to a relatives house for a project and will have to move it around on occasion. I have a 7 x 10 trailer with a 3500 lb axle that I can load it on but the max cargo weight is 2140 lbs. The guy who delivered it said it was about 2360lbs with the loader and backhoe. I put it up on the trailer as a test to see how it fit. I 'chicken winged' the backhoe arm and put the bucket over the front of the trailer. Picture attached. It didn't seem to compress the springs as much as I thought it might. I was thinking of swapping out the axle and springs to a 5K axle and adding electric brakes or I was considering taking the bucket off and putting it in the bed of the truck when I transport the tractor to take a little more load off the trailer. Anyone transport theirs a lot? Any input would help.
weight of the front bucket & trailering
- Thread starter Ecroker
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Aquamoose
Platinum Member
I would simply upgrade the trailer. You don’t want it to break on you and if insurance found out, you’d be out of luck. Especially if you are found negligent for overloading the trailer even if you upgraded the axle. Shop around, you might find that it’s just a few hundred bucks more.
the old grind
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Springs will want 'room' to flex over bumps, should never look fully compressed or 'straight' when loaded. I got away with cheating once by keeping sped <35 mph when loaded a good 1-1.5k over axle ratings for a 12 mi trip to bring a tractor home. Up ton 5 mi or so I'd just drive the tractor there with a proper SMV plate and flashers going. Rules and reasons could be a lot easier. BTDT when the job was days and the trip was <1 hr.
btw, I never hitch or load a roaded trailer, to a job or back, w/o checking tire pressures. IMO they can be a weak link vs a trailer's rated capacity and a bit of fudge factor. Balancing (for trailer length) and tongue weight may figure into whether it's best to load facing forward or backward. Tying buckets down is required by statute in some locales/instances.
btw, I never hitch or load a roaded trailer, to a job or back, w/o checking tire pressures. IMO they can be a weak link vs a trailer's rated capacity and a bit of fudge factor. Balancing (for trailer length) and tongue weight may figure into whether it's best to load facing forward or backward. Tying buckets down is required by statute in some locales/instances.
WranglerX
Super Member
I think weight issue is border line, and you probably should get a bigger trailer.... What bother me somewhat in picture is axle placement of trailer and a lot of weigh of tractor forward, kind of wonder how much tongue weight is on hitch?
Also some states (like Kommuist Kalifornia) require four point tie down for "vehicles" on trailers....
Really weak link here may be ramp, 1> It may prevent you from balancing load (forcing load to far forward)... 2> it will probably bend and fail at worst possible time...
As for changing out axle and adding brakes, also consider frame material and hitch size, it may not be adequate for additional weight... Might be better to sell trailer and replace with larger size....
I move tractor and Jeep and Dune Buggies around on a dual axle "car carrier", but it also came at a time when I was towing almost ever weekend to autocross races, and my opinion is a trailer can not be to big (within certain bounds)... And yes on brakes, had two incidents in same day about 30 miles apart I was really glad trailer has brakes.... Both times I was cut off when running about 55 MPH and if it were not for added trailer brakes both incidents probably would have wrecked truck and trailer and race car on trailer.... And as rear bumper for offending car disappears below hood of PU and anti-lock brakes are in full action and trailer brakes are squalling, your first though is how good are tiedowns on car on trailer, is car going to come forward into PU bed?... Both time you probably could not put a piece of paper between car and my PU bumper but we did not touch... Towing in is whole different dynamic and most idiots on road are not aware your driving situation is different from theirs... Love the idiot at on ramp, screaming down ramp and going to tuck in behind my truck only to realize there is no space for him as there is a trailer on back of truck....
Also some states (like Kommuist Kalifornia) require four point tie down for "vehicles" on trailers....
Really weak link here may be ramp, 1> It may prevent you from balancing load (forcing load to far forward)... 2> it will probably bend and fail at worst possible time...
As for changing out axle and adding brakes, also consider frame material and hitch size, it may not be adequate for additional weight... Might be better to sell trailer and replace with larger size....
I move tractor and Jeep and Dune Buggies around on a dual axle "car carrier", but it also came at a time when I was towing almost ever weekend to autocross races, and my opinion is a trailer can not be to big (within certain bounds)... And yes on brakes, had two incidents in same day about 30 miles apart I was really glad trailer has brakes.... Both times I was cut off when running about 55 MPH and if it were not for added trailer brakes both incidents probably would have wrecked truck and trailer and race car on trailer.... And as rear bumper for offending car disappears below hood of PU and anti-lock brakes are in full action and trailer brakes are squalling, your first though is how good are tiedowns on car on trailer, is car going to come forward into PU bed?... Both time you probably could not put a piece of paper between car and my PU bumper but we did not touch... Towing in is whole different dynamic and most idiots on road are not aware your driving situation is different from theirs... Love the idiot at on ramp, screaming down ramp and going to tuck in behind my truck only to realize there is no space for him as there is a trailer on back of truck....
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Dmacleo
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I use my 7x14 single axle (3500 lb axle 2k payload on STOCK tires) to haul a 1723 TLB as well as my 2400 with no issues.
I added trailer brakes though,very important.
key is tongue height when loaded and weight dist inside trailer.
got thousands of miles on it no issues.
however a 16ft dual axle is better.
I added trailer brakes though,very important.
key is tongue height when loaded and weight dist inside trailer.
got thousands of miles on it no issues.
however a 16ft dual axle is better.
mgstevens
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I'm not sure if much has changed weight-wise since the GC2410, but my 2410 bare is about 1450 lb and the FEL is about 325 lb, the BH around 900 lb. Total together: 2700 lb +/-
I needed to bring mine home, some 900 miles, after purchase. Used a 16-ft car hauler with brakes. Glad I did.
If you drop the BH, you should be good on the lighter trailer. A well-built trailer can take more than its rated weight, but if any force-magnifier happens in transit, it may fail and the operator will be w/o insurance (overloading..) and the problems mount from there.
I needed to bring mine home, some 900 miles, after purchase. Used a 16-ft car hauler with brakes. Glad I did.
If you drop the BH, you should be good on the lighter trailer. A well-built trailer can take more than its rated weight, but if any force-magnifier happens in transit, it may fail and the operator will be w/o insurance (overloading..) and the problems mount from there.