spo307
Gold Member
can you mig or stick weld small cracks on my cast cultipacker wheels?
weld cast
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dex3361
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- Kubota L4400-1 HST,FEL, 3x3 remotes, TNT. BX1500 54 mmm
I have welded cast and I used Nirod. It requires preheating and slow cooling to keep from cracking as it cools. If it is a large casting and you can see the end of the crack you should drill a small hole at the end of the crack to halt further cracking. I have seen some welders weld cast with 7018 after preheat and then post heating and slowly cool it to. It would help to post a pic for more advice.
AKwelder
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there are several types of cast, cast iron and cast steel being common. Cast steel i have welded many times using a 500 degree preheat, and low hydrogen rod (XX18 rod, mostly 11018), and then wrapping it in fiberglass insulation and letting cool very slowly. Preheat small items in the BBQ grill, works well and you can back off the heat over a long period of time.
Cast iron can be tricky, I have seen old timers weld it, braze it and recast it. The best results i have had for none load bearing units is the brazing or silver solder method. Clean it real well and heat it up, apply flux and brazing rod or silver solder.
There are many trick rods to weld the unit together, some work well, some don't, some work on this cast but not on that.
If I weld a cast iron item this is how i do it. Drill the crack, grind out the crack, heat the unit to 200 degrees, weld each side of the crack with lincoln Ni-99 rod and clean with a needle scaler (an air hammer with a dozen needles to remove slag), then weld the crack (this alloys each side before closing the crack up, seems to work better) fill the crack with rod and clean well as you go, Flip the unit over and grind out crack from backside and weld if needed. Then i warm it back up and wrap it with fiberglass insulation, and let it cool slowly
seems to work most days, good luck and let us know ow it works
Cast iron can be tricky, I have seen old timers weld it, braze it and recast it. The best results i have had for none load bearing units is the brazing or silver solder method. Clean it real well and heat it up, apply flux and brazing rod or silver solder.
There are many trick rods to weld the unit together, some work well, some don't, some work on this cast but not on that.
If I weld a cast iron item this is how i do it. Drill the crack, grind out the crack, heat the unit to 200 degrees, weld each side of the crack with lincoln Ni-99 rod and clean with a needle scaler (an air hammer with a dozen needles to remove slag), then weld the crack (this alloys each side before closing the crack up, seems to work better) fill the crack with rod and clean well as you go, Flip the unit over and grind out crack from backside and weld if needed. Then i warm it back up and wrap it with fiberglass insulation, and let it cool slowly
seems to work most days, good luck and let us know ow it works
Just Bill
Silver Member
Hello
A lot of cast iron is repaired by brazing.
A lot of cast iron is repaired by brazing.
alltoys
Silver Member
Welded Grey cast a lot with Ni-rod it was developed so the cast does not have to be preheated unless of course the outside temperature is below comfortable working levels.
Drill two small holes on either end of the crack, grind out the surface a little run some weld in the ground out crack. Peen with chipping hammer or air hammer on weldment. Turn over grind out crack to the new weld now weld the ground out area till it is full. Chip out the slag or air hammer the weld to peen it. This stops the weld from contracting to much putting stress on the surround area.
I have done this type of weld with 11018 as well but heated the area to at least 500*F and peen the weld immediately to relieve stress.
Once you are done and have a sand blaster you can blast the welded area to put the grain back in the material the weld will take on the appearance of the surrounding cast.
Drill two small holes on either end of the crack, grind out the surface a little run some weld in the ground out crack. Peen with chipping hammer or air hammer on weldment. Turn over grind out crack to the new weld now weld the ground out area till it is full. Chip out the slag or air hammer the weld to peen it. This stops the weld from contracting to much putting stress on the surround area.
I have done this type of weld with 11018 as well but heated the area to at least 500*F and peen the weld immediately to relieve stress.
Once you are done and have a sand blaster you can blast the welded area to put the grain back in the material the weld will take on the appearance of the surrounding cast.
