I have a 3 inch MH axle with a damaged welded-on backing plate which I have cut off in hopes of replacing it with a welded-on flange for mounting a universal backing plate. I know the alignment of the flange is critical for the brakes to operate properly and I have read that if you can稚 weld this properly you should take it to a shop for accurate welding. Well, I don稚 want to put out more $ for an axle which, at present I have no plans for, so having nothing to lose, I have a plan on doing it myself. So here痴 my approach: bolt the flange to the backing plate and place the assembly on the axle, install the hub on the spindle and over the brake assembly tighten the spindle nut. Adjust the brakes so they lock onto the hub and now the whole assembly (hub, flange and backing plate) should be properly aligned. Then tack-weld the flange to the axle, disassemble everything and finish welding the flange to the axle the re-assemble. Is this a reasonable approach?
Weld flange on axle
- Thread starter MillWeld
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rjmack
Platinum Member
i have never done that before, but i would be hesitant to use that method.
you should have all your measurements available from the other side, right?
is it a semi, or full floating diff?
if it's a semi-floater, you should be able to use a tri square to square the backing plate to the axle flange and, theoretically, the axle housing.
full floater... i guess you would have to use the drum as a reference, or measure from the other backing plate.
go for it.
you should have all your measurements available from the other side, right?
is it a semi, or full floating diff?
if it's a semi-floater, you should be able to use a tri square to square the backing plate to the axle flange and, theoretically, the axle housing.
full floater... i guess you would have to use the drum as a reference, or measure from the other backing plate.
go for it.
Craig Clayton
Platinum Member
I agree mostly with your method but let me throw in my 2 cents.
1 Install the backer plate as shown
2 Install the brake shoes and magnets but do not tighten the shoes as this will push the backer off center
3 Install the wheel bearings and drum and tighten them down to find the longintiual position on the axle
4 Have a temp collar behind the backer plate to hold the plate from sliding along the shaft
5 Remove brake drum and bearings
6 We now have the longintiual position of the backer plate
7 Now center the backer plate with a measuring gauge ie caliper/ spring scribe/ a
piece of steel and a feeler gauge
8 Now as suggested by rjmack use a square to set the backer plate square to the axle
9 The problem is the shaft is taperd so put the square on and measure the distance at
3 spots
10 After all this you need to stop it from moving around maybe some thin steel used
used like a brace.
11 In theory it is accurate tack with 6011 because I have found it moves the least
12 Reassemble test
13 Disassemble weld
14 Weld with prefered rod
Craig Clayton
1 Install the backer plate as shown
2 Install the brake shoes and magnets but do not tighten the shoes as this will push the backer off center
3 Install the wheel bearings and drum and tighten them down to find the longintiual position on the axle
4 Have a temp collar behind the backer plate to hold the plate from sliding along the shaft
5 Remove brake drum and bearings
6 We now have the longintiual position of the backer plate
7 Now center the backer plate with a measuring gauge ie caliper/ spring scribe/ a
piece of steel and a feeler gauge
8 Now as suggested by rjmack use a square to set the backer plate square to the axle
9 The problem is the shaft is taperd so put the square on and measure the distance at
3 spots
10 After all this you need to stop it from moving around maybe some thin steel used
used like a brace.
11 In theory it is accurate tack with 6011 because I have found it moves the least
12 Reassemble test
13 Disassemble weld
14 Weld with prefered rod
Craig Clayton
Well, I want to thank everyone for their advice and experience because I successfully welded the flange allowing the drums to turn nicely. I did have to make one change to my proposed approach. As it turned out it is better to make slight adjustments to center the flange on the axle rather than to accept its position after locking the brakes. Thanks to Craig Clayton on this. (On the first wheel I spot welded the flange according to my plan even though it was very slightly off center on the axle. The drum scraped when turned so I ground the weld, centered the flange, re-welded and this worked. The 2nd wheel I centered from the getgo and all was well). Now I have a nice axle just waiting for an application. Thanks again.
rjmack
Platinum Member
oops, my bad
i was thinking about something else.
congrats on the success:thumbsup:
i was thinking about something else.
congrats on the success:thumbsup:
