welded trailer balls

[jack707]

I had to weld this up because I was not going to spend 30.00! After all I had one just had to weld it to the reciver because when I cut it the shank it was not long enough to go thru the hole so how did I do? I had some 8018 left so I use them.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Weld on up on the other side, can be handy for height change or you can use a different ball size

 

[LD1]

Looks good, but I'd still keep it off the road.

I have a few inserts that are homemade, and others that have had repairs. They get used behind the tractor pulling the wood hauling trailers, shuttling the logsplitter around, etc.

Not that I dont have confidence in my welds, as I believe they would hold whatever I wanted to tow......but its the liability thing. Too much risk to take over a $30 ball/insert combo.

 

[Tomtint]

I wouldn't use that over the road. 30.00 is not much to pay when a life may depend on it. .02

 

[jack707]

I just put this together to tow my log splitter in to town. Then I won't use it anymore.

 

[Thomas]

For off road use :thumbsup:

 

[RickB]

Without any weld on the top side it's an accident waiting to happen, off-road or on.

 

[coralhead]

Without any weld on the top side it's an accident waiting to happen, off-road or on.

The 1st picture does show it welded on the top side.

 

[RickB]

The 1st picture does show it welded on the top side.

I'd does. I would be OK with off-road use.

 

[1stDeuce]

I'd be OK with any use...
You can buy a welded ball assembly from Harbor Freight, and it's welded in China with sub-standard components, using sub-standard equipment... Your welds look solid, and from a materials standpoint, there really isn't any issue with what you've done.
I take that back. Generally speaking, you need to grind off the chrome plating before you weld, I believe. But you welded the top and bottom, so it's probably 2x stronger than the crappy HF 3-way ball mount, and I HIGHLY doubt they grind the chrome off the balls before they weld them.

Nice looking welds, btw.

 

[jack707]

Thanks a lot 1st.Deuce! I know it's stronger I use 8018 that's 80 pounds per inch of weld!.

 

[jack707]

80,000 not 80

 

[LD1]

I'd be OK with any use...
You can buy a welded ball assembly from Harbor Freight, and it's welded in China with sub-standard components, using sub-standard equipment... Your welds look solid, and from a materials standpoint, there really isn't any issue with what you've done.
I take that back. Generally speaking, you need to grind off the chrome plating before you weld, I believe. But you welded the top and bottom, so it's probably 2x stronger than the crappy HF 3-way ball mount, and I HIGHLY doubt they grind the chrome off the balls before they weld them.

Nice looking welds, btw.

No doubt it is better than a HF China one. The difference is the liability IF something happens

 

[jack707]

I hear ya to many lawyers today
.

 

[Snobdds]

Hitches are designed to resist shear loads with a shank through a thick plate. As long as there is a shank through the plate, welds just provide a clamping force.

The question is, is there a shank on the bottom of the ball that extends through the thick plate?

 

[jack707]

Hitches are designed to resist shear loads with a shank through a thick plate. As long as there is a shank through the plate, welds just provide a clamping force.

The question is, is there a shank on the bottom of the ball that extends through the thick plate?

Yup there is just long enough not to go thru the bottom hole.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Your welding is replacing the clamping force of a nut and it appears to be solidly welded on the bottom. Just to be on the safe side, I would grind a slight groove around the top of the existing bead to remove the chrome on the ball. Then put 2 passes around the ball, one on the bottom with half overlap of the existing bead then the second on top of the first with half overlap taking care to tie the weld in good on the ball. Don't step the rod in and out of the puddle like it appears that you did on the top bead, keep the rod in the puddle and drag it slowly around the ball. LH rods don't like to be stepped due to slag entrapment and porosity forming.
After that, I would not be afraid to run it anywhere.
As far as liability goes, if a HF Chinese welded ball did break off, I rather doubt that you could claim any liability from the manufacturer so you had better have some good insurance in any case.

 

[Snobdds]

Yup there is just long enough not to go thru the bottom hole.

Then there is no reason to not run it anywhere...