Welder
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Cocre
Gold Member
Looks to me like it is a tapped transformer. Probably AC only, so there will not be positive and negative. For thin metals (lower amps) use taps 2 and 4 and then on up the scale to 1 and 3 for the max amps.
Tom_Veatch
Platinum Member
This isn't much help for your specific question, but I googled the welder ("zipper-et" "MID-STATES" welder) and only got a couple of hits on what appears to be newspaper ads from September 1947. Both hits required paid subscriptions to continue so I didn't pursue it. Looks like you've got a real museum piece there.
I doubt that there's going to be much original documentation available.
Interesting that the data plate specifies 110v/30a input but looks like 220v/15a has been steel stamped into the data plate beside the "low" range tap list. Incidentally, thats a very good sharply focused high resolution photograph. The dataplate is very legible even at 2X magnification.
If I were forced to guess, I'd say it's an AC output welder with tap selectable high and low range heats (total of 4 heats? plus carbon soldering??) and to use the taps shown on the dataplate to select the range. If it's AC it probably wouldn't matter which of the two taps is used for ground and which is used for the electrode/stinger. But, I emphasize that's strictly a guess based on what I see on the dataplate.
But the steel stamped "220 15" makes me question what input voltage to use or even whether it might be a dual voltage input or maybe field modified to use 220/240 instead of 110/120.
Perhaps someone with knowlege of welders from the mid 1900's, or even this specific unit, can throw some reliable information into the hat.
I doubt that there's going to be much original documentation available.
Interesting that the data plate specifies 110v/30a input but looks like 220v/15a has been steel stamped into the data plate beside the "low" range tap list. Incidentally, thats a very good sharply focused high resolution photograph. The dataplate is very legible even at 2X magnification.
If I were forced to guess, I'd say it's an AC output welder with tap selectable high and low range heats (total of 4 heats? plus carbon soldering??) and to use the taps shown on the dataplate to select the range. If it's AC it probably wouldn't matter which of the two taps is used for ground and which is used for the electrode/stinger. But, I emphasize that's strictly a guess based on what I see on the dataplate.
But the steel stamped "220 15" makes me question what input voltage to use or even whether it might be a dual voltage input or maybe field modified to use 220/240 instead of 110/120.
Perhaps someone with knowlege of welders from the mid 1900's, or even this specific unit, can throw some reliable information into the hat.
George2615
Super Member
I agree its an AC welder so no positive / negative. You'll have to experiment where to plug the cables in. Start by using the LOW taps 2-3 or 2-4. If your weld needs deeper pentration use the HI taps 1-3 or 1-4. Eventually you'll get the feel for what holes the cables need to be in for each job.
bota7800
Gold Member
That looks really interesting.
I think you might find out more on a welding specific forum such as WeldingWeb - Welding forum for pros and enthusiasts or Weld Talk Message Board and Online Forum - Hobart Welders. I have found out a lot there and occasionally someone who knows the history pipes in.
I think you might find out more on a welding specific forum such as WeldingWeb - Welding forum for pros and enthusiasts or Weld Talk Message Board and Online Forum - Hobart Welders. I have found out a lot there and occasionally someone who knows the history pipes in.
Thank you for all the help and advices I got, I just seen the stamp 220v - 15a and It makes me wonder , I plugged in a 110v outlet and I hear it humming just like a transformer, today I am having a test welding whit the machine and I'll post the results .
George2615
Super Member
Since it has 220V stamped on it I suspect its wired for a 220V 15A primary. Since both 110 and 220 are on the label the transformer probably has different taps to wire the primary up either way.
If it is wired for 110V primary you should have a 30A fuse as the label says and not a 15A.
You may have to remove the cover to determine whether the primary of the transformer is wired for 220 or 110. 220V would be the way to go if you need to rewire it.
If it is wired for 110V primary you should have a 30A fuse as the label says and not a 15A.
You may have to remove the cover to determine whether the primary of the transformer is wired for 220 or 110. 220V would be the way to go if you need to rewire it.
Tom_Veatch
Platinum Member
I try welding whit a 1/8 road a piece of 3/16 piece of steel but it's not enough power it sparks and,it's blowing my 15A fuse
Questions :
- my circuit barker is o low ?
- welding road to thick ?
I'm going to leave it to those with more practical welding experience to comment on the rod type and size - especially since the output voltage and amperage are somewhat undefined. But, since it appears you are using it on a 120v circuit, I would expect it to trip a 15 amp breaker with anything larger than about a 1/16" rod on the lowest heat taps. Remember, the data plate specifies 30 amps with a 120v input.
My experience is that 120v/30amp circuits are fairly uncommon and normally exceed the ampacity of 12ga wiring. You'd generally need at least 10ga wires for a 30 amp circuit whether 120 or 240 volts. When wattage that large is needed, it's usually supplied by a 240v circuit.
In your shoes, I'd do as others have suggested. Open the case and try to determine if the unit is wired for a 240v input. I doubt that it is since you plugged it into 120v which implies a NEMA 5 series (120v) plug. A straight 240v circuit uses NEMA 6 configuration devices which are physically imcompatible with the NEMA 5 devices.
If there's some indication of how to revise the internal wiring for 240v, you should do so. If it's just a simple transformer and can be reconfigured for 120 or 240 volt inputs, the reconfiguration probably involves a split primary coil in which the two halves can be wired in parallel for 120v operation and in series for 240v operation. You may be able to identify that situation by inspection. If it is reconfigurable, you'll need to replace the plug with a NEMA 6 plug to match whatever 240v circuits, 15 amp or greater, you may have available.
As an aside, the welder could be used at 120v on a 120/240 volt 30+ amp multiwire circuit if one is available and you use a properly wired plug (NEMA 10 or 14 series to match whichever is used on the supply circuit).