Welding a tall deer stand

HCJtractor · Jul 7, 2015

I have a great deer stand in one of my favorite places that is about 32 feet up in a big oak tree. I've hunted if for years. It is attached to the tree with 3" angle and 5/8 lags and decked with treated lumber. I climb the tree with screw in steps ( which I don't trust). Also the steps have aged and tend to get deeper in the tree. So as I grow older, I'm trying to come up with a better/safer way to get up this tree. I'm thinking about welding a tall ladder out of 2"x 2" x 1/8 square tubing, and of course sinking it in the ground and attaching it to the tree at the stand level and also bracing it half way up. If I go this route, I will also enlarge the platform and make it more comfy. What should I use for the rungs?

My question is have any of you guys welded really tall stands or ladders? This is way up there. And no, I can't go lower. I need the height for seeing my shooting lanes. And yes I wear a harness and ascender device so I'm always clipped in. I just don't like going quite that high in the dark on screw in steps. On other stands I use 5/8" telephone pole spikes and those are better. But I'm trying to avoid putting new spikes in this tree.

AaronS · Jul 7, 2015

Screw in steps need to be removed annually are screwed into new wood to remain safe. I've seen them pull out when climbing if you don't. No help on the welding, just don't want anyone to get hurt.

HCJtractor · Jul 7, 2015

AaronS said:
Screw in steps need to be removed annually are screwed into new wood to remain safe. I've seen them pull out when climbing if you don't. No help on the welding, just don't want anyone to get hurt.

Yes, I used screw in steps for years. Some were in the tree ten or more years and eventually were "absorbed" by tree growth. I no longer use them. Had one break in my hand one day. Never had one pull out. The best ones were the Ameristep Grizzlies. What I use now on my permanent stands (and my buddy and I have several dozen) are the 5/8" steel telephone pole spikes I buy from the utility company supplier. I drill a 1/2" hole and drive them in with a mallet. I find these the easiest to install, bombproof, safe, and trustworthy. Had some in for over 5 years and they look like new. But I still use a safety rope from the ground to the stand and clip in with an ascender, so I'm always tied in. And I climb, I slide my attachment up as I go. But these steps are very sturdy and safe. But expensive at about $4 each. The stands we now build are attached with 3 or 3.5" angle, lagged to the tree with 5/8" lags, and decked with treated 2x6s. They have a trap door you climb thru so you don't have to climb over the lip of a stand. The the door hinges down, a separate seat hinges down and you're set. Very quiet and safe. There is a 360 degree shooting rail and camo netting surrounding you.
But this one stand I'm working on has so many old spikes in it that were done poorly, from so many years ago, that I would rather not have to cut them all off and start over. That's why I was thinking of a really tall ladder, that I could fabricate in my shop and install it. I realize it would be heavy, but I can use my tractor to stand it up, or winch it up. Plus it's a reason to use my welder

triptester · Jul 7, 2015

I have used 1 1/4" pipe with 1/2" rebar for ladder rungs. Made them in 10 foot sections joining with 1" pipe inside for transport.

woodlandfarms · Jul 8, 2015

You couldn't just buy an aluminum ladder? Guess I don't fully understand.

EddieWalker · Jul 11, 2015

At 32 feet, you are a braver man then me!!!!!

Since you are risking your life climbing up to you blind, and you are unsure of how to weld up the ladder, I would just go to the best welder in your area and have them engineer it for you.

I would also set it in, or on concrete footings and probably have at least 2 supports at ten and twenty feet tied to the tree for bracing. There is a lot of flex over that much distance, and over time, the more something flexes, the weaker it gets.

Eddie

HCJtractor · Jul 11, 2015

EddieWalker said:
At 32 feet, you are a braver man then me!!!!! Since you are risking your life climbing up to you blind, and you are unsure of how to weld up the ladder, I would just go to the best welder in your area and have them engineer it for you. I would also set it in, or on concrete footings and probably have at least 2 supports at ten and twenty feet tied to the tree for bracing. There is a lot of flex over that much distance, and over time, the more something flexes, the weaker it gets. Eddie

You're right Eddie. I've hunted this stand for many years. I hate to give it up. I always used spikes and a safety rope, but as I grow older and smarter, I've just don't like climbing up there. So I'm just brainstorming. Now I'm considering using a long aluminum ladder, buried into the ground and firmly attached to the tree at several points with supports and at the top have it enter the stand. But I would still wear a rope as I ascend. After pricing steel, I think a ladder would be about the same price. Looking at aluminum and fiberglass ladders. I suppose an aluminum would hold up better left outdoors for many seasons. Any reason not to do that? If I get it firmly attached so there's no chance of movement, I think it would be safe.

MikeInEburg · Jul 11, 2015

HCJtractor said:
...If I get it firmly attached so there's no chance of movement, I think it would be safe.

Keep in mind that the tree will move each time the wind blows. Your design must allow for movement, or the ladder may suffer a hidden fracture that could be catasrauphic.

Mysfyt · Jul 12, 2015

2" square tube x 1/8 wall is going to weigh in excess of 250 lbs figuring uprights an 16 cross bars. Your going to need some help to install it.

GLyford · Jul 13, 2015

MikeInEburg said:
Keep in mind that the tree will move each time the wind blows. Your design must allow for movement, or the ladder may suffer a hidden fracture that could be catasrauphic.

Take a look at a bunch of the treehouse sites out there, they have interesting ways of attaching things securely while still allowing for the tree to move and grow. A bunch of those guys want to sell you the hardware, but they do a pretty good job of explaining the ideas so you can make your own. If you don't make your design flexible, you're likely to either break your ladder, or break the tree...