Welding cable question

Superduper · Mar 17, 2008

So I decided to make some extra cables and ordered some supplies from weldingsupply.com. Made a pair of extra cables and decided to move on to repairing an existing cable.

Removed the plug and electrode holder on old cable and found that the bare end has a copper ring that was crimped, then secured to clamp/stinger using the hex set screw.

My question: The new cables that I just made was assembed by simply tightening the setscrew against the bare strands. Does anyone know if this is adequate or even proper, or must I first crimp the bare end with a copper ring (don't even know where you would buy that) prior to securing it to the clamp and stinger?

Thanks.

Treemonkey1000 · Mar 17, 2008

If the end didn't come with that copper filler you might not need it. I would make sure that the end of the wire is seated into the connector as far as possible then tighten down the set screw. Although I just made up some cables for another system where we run 80 to 100 amps. Those connectors were a bit large for the cable that I had. So I stripped some solid copper wire and wrapped it around the main cable kind of like a spring. Then I soldered that together. It filled in a lot of the extra space and helped the set screw bite in a little harder.

Superduper · Mar 17, 2008

Treemonkey: I didn't realize that the copper ring was a filler. I presumed it's purpose was to maintain the integrity of the strands, which are clearly finer than most wire cables.

Also, is solder an acceptable material to be used on welding cables or wiring of welders in general? I wonder if the low melting point characteristics of solder could be an issue.

tommu56 · Mar 17, 2008

Superduper said:
Treemonkey: I didn't realize that the copper ring was a filler. I presumed it's purpose was to maintain the integrity of the strands, which are clearly finer than most wire cables.

Also, is solder an acceptable material to be used on welding cables or wiring of welders in general? I wonder if the low melting point characteristics of solder could be an issue.

Don't tin the wires before you put them in connector they rely on surface area to to carry the current if any thing wrap them in a thin copper or brass material like shim stock that will contain the wires and deform with the screw to make good contact.

tom

Matt_Jr · Mar 17, 2008

tommu56 said:
Don't tin the wires before you put them in connector they rely on surface area to to carry the current if any thing wrap them in a thin copper or brass material like shim stock that will contain the wires and deform with the screw to make good contact.

tom

-I have fixed mig welder ground clamps by soldering the ground wire into a copper eye loop and bolting to the clamp. Although electrons use the surface area of wire to flow, if you use rosin core solder the elecrons will flow through the rosin and continue to flow outside the copper strands and lead solder. The extra lead that is soaked into the wire will also act as a heat sink so that the wire doesn't overheat. Soldering is abslotutely the best way to conduct electricity from one wire to another. I have seen many connections fail because of crimps. All the wires don't always get squeezed together which causes some strands to carry more current to make up for the ones in the crimp that don't make good contact. This causes more heating and cooling of the crimp area which causes it to come loose...and needing repaired again.

Treemonkey1000 · Mar 17, 2008

Matt_Jr said:
-I The extra lead that is soaked into the wire will also act as a heat sink so that the wire doesn't overheat. Soldering is abslotutely the best way to conduct electricity from one wire to another. I have seen many connections fail because of crimps. All the wires don't always get squeezed together which causes some strands to carry more current to make up for the ones in the crimp that don't make good contact. This causes more heating and cooling of the crimp area which causes it to come loose...and needing repaired again.

That is the reason I soldered the copper solid wire to the welding wire is to incorporate all of the strands together at that point. To keep from heating wires that are not making as good a contact. Especially as they age and oxidize under the connector. And to fill in the large void that was inside of the connector. When the set screw was seated inside there were wires that were getting crushed and some going into the loose void. After tinning the end and wrapping it with the solid wire I had a much more solid contact with the set screw. I am not sure if it is standard practice. They do use copper strips as fillers and strand holders in high current applications.

Wayne County Hose · Mar 17, 2008

Matt jr is right on. I used to repair electric forklifts that used a lot of 2/0 cable. These systems were in excess of 300 amps at 36v. We always soldered the ends on. The only thing you have to be careful of is a cold solder joint. Nothing better than a solder joint, properly done.

pat32rf · Mar 18, 2008

A good solder joint is the best way to go, but tinning the end of the cable then trying to tighten the set-screw into it can be counterproductive as it no longer allows the conductors to "mash" under the screw. A few heating and cooling cycles and it could work loose. Better to fill the oversized void with more copper, then TIGHTEN it with a set screw that has been slightly greased..

tommu56 · Mar 18, 2008

pat32rf said:
A good solder joint is the best way to go, but tinning the end of the cable then trying to tighten the set-screw into it can be counterproductive as it no longer allows the conductors to "mash" under the screw. A few heating and cooling cycles and it could work loose. Better to fill the oversized void with more copper, then TIGHTEN it with a set screw that has been slightly greased..

I agree

We have had alot of failures (heating of cables) on terminal strip were they were tinned then put in to connector screw only hits on a amall area of circle at top and bottomof connector.

A complete solder joint is not aproblem I have used copper pipe flattened and drilled and soldered on for welding lead lugs with out a problem.

tom