Welding Technique Advice Needed

TMcD_in_MI · Dec 21, 2006

I need to weld a trailer stub axle onto a piece of C-channel steel and I don't exactly know how to deal with the differences in the thicknesses of the two pieces. It makes sense that the thicker stub axle will need more heat than the thinner channel steel, but how do I go about doing that and what would be a reasonable amp setting? I'm using a Lincoln 180 AC welder and I have some experience, but not enough to be especially good.

Thanks for whatever advice you can give me.

Tom

deerhunterf350 · Dec 21, 2006

When Welding on even thickness's of metal I concentrate the Arc evenly on both pieces of metal.

Different thickness's of metal, for example, if the Axle is 75% thicker than the C-Channel, Then I would have the Arc on the Axle 75% of the time and on the C-channel 25% .

kenmac · Dec 21, 2006

I try to put most of the heat 1 st pass on the thicker stuff. Then, come back with a 2 nd. pass to tie the 2 (thicker metal to the thinner metal )together. If need be I'll run a 3 rd pass.

SPIKER · Dec 21, 2006

also wend putting stub axles on you need a bit of caster & camber built into the stub weld not perfectly square.

put the first tack on the bottom of the axle stub. lean it down a bit 3~5 degrees and twards the front 2~4 degrees. and tack it good, (REALLY GOOD)

if you look at it from the front of the trailer twards the back you should see the out side of the stubs pointing down and slightly at you. take careful measurements from the farthest corners to the stub making sure both sides are equal.

make several passes as needed and make sure there is a chafer ground into the stub weld end for weld fill material. If you find one side has pulled some you can pull it back with welding process. more weld on top will pull stub outter most part UP. so welding too much on one side or other will cause the stub to pull one way or the other.

hope that helps some..
maark M

thingy · Dec 21, 2006

Are you just setting a round axil on a piece of channel and welding it? Is it what you call a fillit weld,just welding the two pieces together,no groove? Kinda hard for me to figure out the joint.
As far as what amps,,,you really don't go into that way,,for instance,a 1/8 inch rod will just work right on a certain range of amps,maybe 110 to 130,plus or minus,you can weld on cold side or hot side of that range,but thats about it. So you weld with enough amps to make the rod burn right. You can turn down when on thin stuff,you can turn up some when on thick stuff,,,,but if you want to burn hotter than that,you go to a bigger rod,or if you want to weld colder than that,you go to a smaller rod.
The way your joint is will mostly determine how strong your joint is,,beveled full penatration joints will be stronger than just a fillit weld,,beveled joints reguire multiple passes,fillit welds too sometimes.
Generally speaking when welding something thick,[say 1 inch] to thin [say 1/4 inch],you just weld[ as far as weld size] to the thinner member,,,no need putting a 1 inch fillit on something 1/4. The chain is just as strong as its weakest link sort a thing. thingy

dirtdiggerdug · Dec 22, 2006

A good starting point for setting your amps would be to change the size of welding rod your using to a decimal. For example, if you're using a 1/8" welding rod you would set your amps at 125. 3/32" rod 95 amps. this is just a starting point, depending on your welder you probably will have to raise or lower your settings slightly.

TMcD_in_MI · Dec 22, 2006

Thanks guys, for the great advice. I definitely have a lot to learn about welding, and your comments have already helped me a lot.

To clarify a little, the axle stub is 1.25" diam. and will just fit into the channel of the trailer axle after a little careful grinding on the sides of the stub. I will be using 5/32" Fleetweld 37 rod, not necessarily because I know that it is the best choice, but more because it is what I have.

I appreciate your help.

Tom

thingy · Dec 22, 2006

Fleet weld 37,don't know what that is,almost sounds like a d.c. rod,,,,what does it say on side of rod,,e-6010,,,e-7018,,e-6013? Reason I 'm saying this is you said,[I think ],you had a lincoln 180 amp buzz box type welder that only put out a.c.?
Some rods don't work very good on a.c.,,6010 for one,,,some/most if not all, work alot better on d.c. ,7018 for one,,,6011,6012,6013 are some rods that are made to be used with ac or dc,,
Some rods like e-7018 need to be keep dry in a heated box after you open can or they ain't worth throwing away.. thingy

Brad_Blazer · Dec 22, 2006

"Lincoln Fleetweld 37
AWS E6013
This electrode provides a smaller flatter bead and slightly lower deposition rate than Fleetweld 7. This electrode is excellent for use with low voltage 225 amp AC welding machines.

For AC, and DC-+ welding in all positions."

Sounds like the right electrode. Lincoln has good info online such as this: http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/c210.pdf
Brad