what do people look for hp or lift capacity

[linpat]

i have matched up tractor brand with other brands, (lets keep brand name out so we don't start a war)

some brands need more hp to lift the same capacity as others with less horse power. so what do most people look at hp or what a tractor can do?

 

[kozak]

When I was looking I was a total novice. But in general, from the riding lawn mower that I had, I knew I wanted something bigger, heavier & of course the greater the lift capacity the better. Did'nt really look at HP although (for the most part) they do go hand in hand.

Vic

 

[gordon21]

Without starting the colors war, I have 3 comments. 3PT lift capacities are highly overrated. I mean that more attention is given to them than necessary. The vast majority of rear implements are box scrapes, blades, rotary cutters, leaf rakes, etc. Most weigh less than 600# making a buying decision on whether a 3PT is rated 800# versus 1000# or #1500 is just not that important. The FEL rating is more important, but the way they are measured is so inconsistent. The last comment concerns shim kits available to boost some hydraulics to more powerful levels. If a Mfgr sets a low factory setting to cover his butt on liability and there is the proven ability to boost it another 20-25% safely, then how do you compare it to other brands where the mfgr is at the limit of safety and lists the maximum capacity where another 50# might start breaking stuff? Be realistic in your actual uses. Buy a tractor that fits 90% of your needs. The worst thing you can do is underbuy. Don't buy a 20-22Hp tractor if you will need to use a 6' bush hog or lift 1200#+ with the FEL. Don't buy with the first project being to try to improve the ratings of what you just bought. If you need to tow 6000#, then don't buy a Ford Ranger and start adding helper springs, bigger motor, etc. Buy right in the first place. Place another post and let everyone know exactly what you need to do and you can start getting some very precise recommendations. If your needs are mainly FEL work, then you will get 20 responses and you can then decide.

 

[gordon21]

Oh yeah I forgot the gasoline versus diesel conversion. A diesel HP is far more than a gas HP rating when it comes to usefulness. Others will add their comments, but this might be a guess

15 diesel Hp= 25 gas HP

I have a 16HP Kohler gas engine on my 42" riding lawnmower. My tractor has a 28HP diesel. I can assure you that my tractor has at least 5 times the power of the mower, if not 6 times the power. Gearing and torque are more important than raw HP ratings.

 

[beenthere]

3pt lift capacity is important to me, to lift pallets of green, split oak firewood and to lift large logs with the logging tongs. Both were important when I purchased, and a bonus on my 33 hp tractor was a more powerful and quicker FEL than competing brands. I was quite used to mine, when I had an occasion to get on another brand to do some FEL work. That other brand would lift a good load, but would do so in slow motion.
Smaller gpm pump and larger hyd. cylinders will move slower but lift a lot.
There are trade-offs, and many can be happy with what they buy and be satisfied.
Bottom line, I go for the best. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Just can't help myself.

 

[KiotiJohn]

I'm fairly sure most of us are not able to give an accurate answer as to what criterion most people would use to choose a tractor, but I suspect most go by the HP. Most of the threads I've read on TBN lead me to that conclusion as most responses go something like this: If you have a lot of acres to cut, you're going to need a XXHP tractor, or an XXXHP tractor.

Yes, many talk about lift capacities, but the baseline seems to be what HP the tractor is, and then what can it lift.

Lift capacity is more a function of the hydraulics and the frame of the tractor than HP. A 20 HP tractor that has the same flow rate as a 40HP tractor could theoretically have the same lift, but wouldn't have the same infrastructure to lift and carry heavy implements.

HP and lift capacites, frame size etc. are all important factors in buying a tractor.

Base your purchase on what the overall tractor can do. It does no good to have a tractor that can lift a lot of weight if the frame is too small to handle the size implement you need to use. And if the PTO HP is not enough to run the size implement you need to use, then lift capacity wouldn't mean anything.

I hope this is clearly stated, I feel like I'm phasing in and out I'm so tired.
John

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Linpat -

As always, I guess there's no universal answer, just a lot of individual preferences and differing situations.

In my case, I wanted all the loader and 3PH hitch lift capacity that I could get in a hydrostatic drive tractor (for lifting the biggest logs possible, front and rear). I know you wanted to leave colors out of this, but a look at my profile would show that this led me to a Kubota 5030. If the 4330 had the same 3PH lift as the 5030, I just might have ended up with that instead so I could get into tighter spots.

Lots of good points in this thread; many people might not ever need as much 3PH lift as their machine has, and it is very hard to get "hard" numbers on actual loader and 3PH lift capacity due to "fudging" of figures by manufacturers and relief settings that are below the rated pressure. Makes me wish the Nebraska Tractor Test folks covered more of the tractors that most of us have.

John

 

[tcsmpsi1]

Everything about a tractor is important. This forum is an excellent place to get the most important factor of a tractor.
Real life information from individuals who work/have worked tractors.

One of my individual factors, is terrain/environment in which it will be mostly working. Working dirt inside residential foundation forms, most with pilings, moving, brushing, clearing with as little 'footprint' as possible (without disturbing owner's trees, etc.) requires getting all that I can, in the smallest, lightest package possible, being tough, dependable, responsive and with reasonable parts available.

Does one need brute force of the tractor (pushing/pulling), or more hydraulic force?

Fit the tractor to your needs with as much as you can reasonably afford.

I would go to the tractor specific forums and ask specific questions tuned to your particular needs.

 

[LarryRB]

everyone has specific needs that are more important than others.,. For me, it was a turn around seat, instead of dismounting machine and mounting hoe and vise versa. And the need for three hydraulic pumps instead of the main plus steering pump was the other main issue,, At the time, this limited me to two different colored tractors,. Today, there are probably 4 or so,,,. For what little I use the 3 pt, a hog mower and landscape rake 7 times each year,,, the 3 pt isn't anywhere as big an issue

 

[rockyridgefarm]

What people Look for and SHOULD look for may be way different.

When comparing specs, make sure the same yardstick is used. So if you are considering loader specs, find out where the measurements are considerd. 500mm forward of the bucket pivot numbers look like less than at the pivot. But the loader may be stronger. Speed and capacity need to be balanced. A loader can be optimized for one at the expense of the other. A big cylinder can lift more higher, but if the hydraukic pump speed is constant, it will do so more slowly. Because the bigger cylinder is a bigger tank to fill.

So for best loader performance, you need a fairly strong and fast loader. And a tractor whose tires and axles are up to the load. One reason to carefully consider an 'upgrade' aftermarket loader for a machine that the oem loader might seem to be detuned... The tractor itself may not be up to more due to weight, wheelbase or axle rating.

And what is the ballast requirement. The rating of the loader or 3 point always requires proper ballast to reach full performance and safety.

The transmission and engine torque reserve can also greatly affect real world loader performance. If you have a strong loader but can't get a full bucket without stalling the engine, what good is it? And if you have to clutch and shop for gears during loader work, you will have lower overall performance. One brand offers an electronic system that balances the transmission on the fly to maximize performance here. Another has a user selectable range switch on the loader to allow the operator to quickly hop from grunt to GO... Reverser manual trannies are a huge help, also. Especially those that don't require clutching.

Other ergonomic factors come into play. An operator that has an unobstructed view of the bucket can often work faster. A comfortable vibration limited operator station lessens fatique. Hearing protection, even. A cup holder might even raise productivity (or destroy it - if manufacturer disapproved fluids are set there...)

Balancing all this often ends up with compromises. And which ones we choose to accept is how we end up with finding what fits. What fits me may not fit you. Have fun!

Wow, there is a lot that goes intO a loader, should I address the 3 point?!!!