What implements???

[BobReeves]

Hi, I am a real newbee when it comes to tractors and what they can and can't do. I am in the process of buying 10 acres just outside of Tulsa with a 40 x 40 metal shop building. The property is mostly flat with few trees and the soil is clay. Most of the property has been let go with the previous owner just brush hogging the weeds down a couple of times a year. We are going to be moving our 14 x 70 mobile home onto the property and living in it until we get into a position to either build a house or add onto the mobile home.

We are planning on having 3 to 4 acres of lawn and I am going to put in a 170 foot grass circle for flying my control line model airplanes. I am also going to need to trench and run underground water, gas and electric to various out buildings. I will have a 180 foot gravel driveway to maintain and a little snow removal. We get a couple of snow storms a year usually 6 to 8 inches but we can have ice storms that can dump a couple inches of solid ice on everything.

The question is what implements, attachments should I be looking for, thinking about?

 

[RobS]

Pretty straightforward Bob... a brushhog to keep up where the previous owner left off. A finish mower for your lawn and RC airport. Rear blade for driveway maintenance/snow removal. Rent a trencher for your trenching, not really a CUT job unless you spend big bucks for a trencher. You may want a tiller/disc/rake etc. to transform the current soil into lawn but that too could be rented or hired out as it will be a one time thing.

Do you already have a tractor or is that on your list as well /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

I think Rob hit on the right tools for the jobs you listed. Personally, I think the number one attachment for any tractor is a front end loader and bucket with a toothbar. I hardly even think of them as 'attachments' anymore. I've come to assume they're just mandatory. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif The only other thing I might change would be going with a box blade either instead of or in addition to a rear blade. If you have a gravel drive to maintain, I think a box blade is an invaluable tool. If you don't want to rent a trencher and have some time you might want to look at a subsoiler for your underground lines. It's not as quick or elegant as renting a trencher, but it's cheaper and then you own the tool. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[BobReeves]

Thanks for the input guys, I have been reading this board for a couple of weeks now and have already gained allot more knowledge than I had 3 weeks ago. Haven't bought the tractor yet. I am on a limited budget after using my available cash to buy the land and am thinking something along the lines of an older Ford 3000 as they seem pretty plentiful around here. I thought it might be best to get some input on the implements and that may dictate what I will need in a tractor.

For example, I know I want a Front Eend Loader which means I need power steering, right? At this point I am not even sure if the Ford 3000 had a power steering option but at least I hope I will know what to look for when I get serious about buying the tractor.

 

[nomad]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( At this point I am not even sure if the Ford 3000 had a power steering option)</font>

Yes, it has. Power steering kits available for Ford 3000 too.

 

[chrisjbell]

Congrats on your purchase - sounds like a good place to live /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Good advice on implements - my $0.02 is to go with a box blade, and you can probably make a brush hog do mostly what you'd want from a finish mower if you sharpen the blades. Saving $$$ is good - and a finish mower will cost more than the rotary cutter (brush hog) and can't handle rough stuff as well.

Keep us posted with your adventures /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif!

 

[Soundguy]

I think you've goptten good advice here so far.

If you didn't live in an area that froze, I might have suggested a middlebuster, or subsoiler type plow to make a furrow to drop poer or water lines in... but that gets them only about 6" in a pass.. perhaps 8-10 on a two pass.

For freezing areas.. i think i would want the water deeper.. and for gas.. well..I wouldn't even want to run gas myself.. I would probably sub that one out.. dunno..

Soundguy

 

[Ramon]

What are the pros versus cons of using a scrape blade versus a box blade? Are the some jobs that one can do that the other cannot? Thanks

 

[Soundguy]

A grader blad generally can be angled and swiveled. And is great forcrowning driveways.. or even doing some ditch work. You really don't dig with a grader blad.. only smooth and shape.. though small cuts can be made. It is mainly used to winrow up material.. ( it leaves a row of cut material. ). A box blade on the other hand is fesigned to make cuts.. and to drag material. You can skim an inch or two of material and drag it along in the box ( has sides to keep the material in ) to fill low spots.

While you can angle it up or down using the tractos adjustable link.. it doesn't work as well as a grader blade for that sort of thing.

If I was pushing snow.. I'd use a grader blade.. If I was pushing up a maneuer pile.. i'd use a box blade.

Similarly.. If I were doing a building pad.. use a box blade. A gravel drive could use either.

Soundguy

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Ramon,

Soundguy gave you some great advice and info here. The only thing I might add is that if money has you making a decision between a box blade and a back blade, I'd suggest you go with the box blade. While you can work gravel in a drive with a grader blade, there's nothing quite like a box blade for that. I just spent an hour or so yesterday morning on mine and it looks like I had tons of new gravel delivered. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif