What is this thing? How does it work?

[def38]

No commercial work...just me and the 8 acres. My intention is to install a hydraulic top link and from what I have gathered from all your helpful information, I have all the needed hardware for that application.

My only current projects are, disk the remaining 3 acres and plant everything in Berseem clover before mid-November. Over the winter, I'll rebuild the alternator with a new slip ring and possibly add some better rear tires. In spring, I'll till the clover in and plant Bermuda and put in a small orchard. Do any of you use a 3 point post hole implement for planting trees?

Roll Tide, go Trump...lets get some lower taxes!

 

[def38]

IF that is indeed the case, I'd be looking to find a PB and plumb to that and forget that diverter/selector valve.

What's a PB?

 

[LD1]

What's a PB?

Power Beyond

 

[teg]

...Do any of you use a 3 point post hole implement for planting trees?...

Even when I plant a dozen trees, I'll dig by hand. Couple reasons, we have pretty nice dirt and it's easy to dig and the other reason is by the time I take off what's on the tractor and mount the Post Hole Digger (which is a pain to do) I would have the 12 holes dug already.

If I would create some frame to hold my post hole digger so that attaching it would not be such a pain in the butt... I still would have to track down where the post hole digger is!?!?! (One of the few implements I bought new so I went in on Halves with it - it spends lots of time at the other owner's place).

I would check into renting or borrowing a post hole digger before buying one. One guy I loaned it to wanted 9" holes so he bought the bit for me (also got a 6" bit the same way).

 

[def38]

I can probably borrow a PHD from a neighbor. Otherwise, renting would make sense.

I'm still kinda stuck on this power beyond thing...my tractor doesn't have it and if I were to equip it with PB, it sounds expensive. All I want is a hydraulic top link...I think I'm there.

I'm certainly not going to buy a different tactor with PB...I'm quite satisfied with the M-F 231S I have. But, I learned sometin' and that's good.

Now, I'm adding another project to my list...I need a 3 point mount for my homemade AG sprayer. It is a 55 gallon poly drum with a pump, hose and spray wand and plugs into a rear mounted lighter socket. I can spray from the seat. It works well for Glyphosate, bug spray and fertilizer. Cost me about fifty bucks.

I also need to ad some weight to my disk harrow to help cut a bit deeper. I think I'll find some iron body building weights and weld on a vertical spindle on which to install the weights. Any ideas? How much weight do you folks ad to your disk harrows?

Hmmmm...it sounds like I need a welding rig. Do any of you do you own welding?

 

[LD1]

A power beyond is just a feature of a hydraulic valve.

Usually on a tractor equipped with a loader, the loader valve has a PB port. That port is used to feed the 3PH.

You cant simply take hydraulic valves and run them all in series with the outlet of one valve feeding the next valve.

PB basically gives a valve TWO outlets. So you would have P (pressure in).....A and B (work ports operating whatever cylinder).....and instead of just a T (return to tank)...it will ALSO have a PB. You still need the T to return to tank, the PB feeds the next valve in the series.

The 3PH is usually always the last valve in the line. And thus just needs the T and no need for PB because you dont feed anything after the 3PH.

So normally when someone has a loader tractor and wants to add remotes. You take the existing PB line that feeds the 3ph and reroute it to feed the remote valve instead. Then take the PB out of the remote valve and feed the 3PH. Doing so allows the use of both the 3PH AND the remote without having to change any selectors. Whereas what you have now, you basically have to shut off the 3PH and direct that fluid to the remotes manually via that selector. Most modern tractors with remotes you dont need to do that. If you want to run the remote, grab the remote lever and do as you please. if you want to raise the 3PH, grab the lever and raise. No need to think about that extra step of switching the selector to the function you want.

Sure, you can make do with it, but if it were mine, that would get old really quick and I'd be changing it.

 

[the old grind]

A power beyond is just a feature of a hydraulic valve. Usually on a tractor equipped with a loader, the loader valve has a PB port. That port is used to feed the 3PH. PB basically gives a valve TWO outlets. The 3PH is usually always the last valve in the line.

So normally when someone has a loader tractor and wants to add remotes. You take the existing PB line that feeds the 3ph and reroute it to feed the remote valve instead. Then take the PB out of the remote valve and feed the 3PH. Doing so allows the use of both the 3PH AND the remote without having to change any selectors.

If you don't mind my trimming it a bit, I suggest this as a best yet explanation for those of us who are considering and/or comparing the addition of a diverter as alternative to plumbing for PB. (IMO, adding PB for similar $$ is such a no-brainer)

I suggest that if one ever lays a wrench to a tractor it's a great time to add PB while their hands are dirty anyway.

 

[def38]

Gents, the only thing I'll need additional hydraulics for is my top link. And that will be intermittent depending on the implement I'm using. Once the hydraulic top link is set to the desired position, I'll switch back to the three point and go about my work. Also, from what I can tell, I have all the needed hardware in place already...only thing is I need to free up the TS300 valve and possibly install so new O-rings.

My tractor is a puller only...I have no intention of adding a FEL. If I need to move dirt, I'll get a track loader or hire a dirt guy.
Thanks for all the comments.

 

[LD1]

If you are gonna set the top link and forget it, why spend the money on a hydraulic one?

I adjust my toplink all the time. Changing pitch on a blade, dropping a mower over a bank or up an incline, adjusting pitch on a trailer mover ball, etc etc.

If your only adjustment is to hook up then go, why go with hydraulics?

 

[KubotainNH]

Lots of folks weld here, check out the section in the link below. I recently got a $300 Everlast MIG that I'm loving. It can do quite a bit on a 20amp 110v breaker.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/

 

[teg]

One thing I would suggest... there are top links with and without check valves. I would get a top link WITH a check valve which would help with any leak down..

 

[def38]

If you are gonna set the top link and forget it, why spend the money on a hydraulic one?

I adjust my toplink all the time. Changing pitch on a blade, dropping a mower over a bank or up an incline, adjusting pitch on a trailer mover ball, etc etc.

If your only adjustment is to hook up then go, why go with hydraulics?

Because I'm a fat, lazy, retired sailor who has money to burn and I don't like getting off and on the tractor to mess with some screw. Now, where's my bourbon? "Hey woman, get over here and light my cigar. And while you're at it, take off those fancy pajamas...."

 

[def38]

One thing I would suggest... there are top links with and without check valves. I would get a top link WITH a check valve which would help with any leak down..

This is what I ordered. Now to install it....

http://www.haytools.com/images/Hyd_Cat_1_long.JPG

 

[def38]

The TS300 has been overhauled. Works fine now. The hydraulic top link (with check valves) has been installed. Cylinder extends only...does not retract. Do I need a different control valve?

 

[tophoseman35]

Does anyone have any weatherhead crimper dies for a T410 t440 or t400 dies they want to sell preferably used. Thanks,:drink:

 

[LD1]

Wonder if your valve is made for a single acting cylinder. Something designed to be powered only one way and gravity return? Kinda like your 3ph

 

[teg]

Wonder if your valve is made for a single acting cylinder....

The description of the Part, TS300 (stamped on the part), will allow 3 setups. MY question is does anyone have the plumbing diagram of the TS300... (setup for 2 way)

def38, can you take a few more photos, it looks like the opposite side of where your hoses come into the valve, looks like a plug. Take 4 photos of each side... I'm thinking the valve will work but it needs to be plumbed correctly.

 

[def38]

The description of the Part, TS300 (stamped on the part), will allow 3 setups. MY question is does anyone have the plumbing diagram of the TS300... (setup for 2 way)

def38, can you take a few more photos, it looks like the opposite side of where your hoses come into the valve, looks like a plug. Take 4 photos of each side... I'm thinking the valve will work but it needs to be plumbed correctly.

Additional photos attached.













I swapped the hoses at the rear and no change. I'm baffled.

 

[aczlan]

The first thing I would do, is to remove both hoses from the valve on the transmission to the valve on the fender (at the fender end), then stick both of them into a clean five gallon bucket and start the tractor. One of them should let out fluid. That one should go to the in port of the valve on the fender. You should be able to blow into the other one if you have the three-point hitch levers all the way down. That one should go to the out port of the valve on the fender. While you have things apart, make sure you can blow air from the in-port to to the out-port of the valve on the fender.

Aaron Z

 

[Gator6x4]

This is from memory. My deceased brother in law had a old ford he thought the world of. It had a one arm loader that was a beast on it. It had a valve like you are describing that was used to operate the loader when mounted on the tractor. I think the tractor was a Ford 2000.

If you could find some info on how the hydraulics were plumbed on one of the old fords with the one arm loaders, you may be on the way to solving your problem.

http://www.ntractorclub.com/eds_stu...rochure for 711 loader/Ford 711 Loader Ad.pdf