What RPM for FEL work?

slantram · Apr 20, 2006

I'm new at this FEL stuff.I've got a new CK20 gear and I've got 16 hrs on it.All of those hrs are from moving 3 ten wheelers of just plain top soil.If I run at 1800 rpm it lugs too much.If I run at PTO speed it"s much much better but I have more of a problem getting a full bucket! I feel I should be running at PTO speed and practice,practice,practice-on filling the bucket FULL! Am I correct in my thinking? Need some expert opinions from you folks.Thanks, Wayne.

Bird · Apr 20, 2006

Wayne, I think it just takes practice and experimenting with different RPM to find what's most comfortable. You don't want to lug the engine, but at the same time, PTO speed is only rarely needed for front end loader work in my opinion. When I had the B2710, I found that 2200 was just about right for me to do extended work with the FEL and box blade, while I think PTO speed was about 2600. And I suspect getting a FULL bucket was something that took most of us some time and practice; at least it did me. Try moving forward into a pile of dirt very slowly with the bucket level and simultaneously very very slowly rolling the bucket back. When I first started I had a tendency to try to push too hard into a pile and then I'd spin a back wheel and dig little holes in the ground and sometimes still not come up with a full bucket.

KiotiJohn · Apr 21, 2006

I do most loading from about 2200-2400 RPM. One thing you'll notice is that the bucket operates more quickly at higher RPM.

Also, if you're not using a toothbar on the bucket, you'll have to work a little harder at getting a good full load in my experience.

With my CK20HST, I do a combination of things depending on how packed the pile is. One, I go in with the bucket below level, dig in forward while curling the bucket back. I then reverse a little while at the same time dumping the bucket back down a little going forward again and grabbing another bit of the pile while curling back again. I find I usually get a good full bucket with two trys.

If it's really loose material, I usually get a good bucket on the first try.

If you go too deep in the pile the first time, your loader has a harder time curling and lifting all the weight.

Try using 2200 first and see how that does.
John

Egon · Apr 21, 2006

Run at RPM's that give you very good loader respose. Come into the pile a slight down angle and then level, as you advance work the curl back and forth til you think you have enough and then curl up and lift. In tough digging you may have to make several attempts to get a full bucket. Approaching the pile at an angle and from uphill may also help. Always try and keep the approach area level and work at doing so.

With the gears there may be a little clutch work involved.

Note: seat time will be the true resolution. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Egon

bluechip · Apr 21, 2006

clutch work would be in and out, not a constant riding/slipping of the clutch to slow the tractor as some may tend to do...

RedDog · Apr 21, 2006

I usually run at 1600rpms to 1800rpms for loader work. I do not think my tractor has ever been run at PTO speed which I think is 2250. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

My bucket lies flat on the ground, (level) going into a pile. I then raise and curl at the same time. This works very well for me, and using the bucket level indicator rod helps too. My bucket never goes into a pile downward.

Practice is the main ingredient. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

RedDog

DK35vince · Apr 21, 2006

With a gear drive tractor I use the foot throttle for loader work and use whatever RPM's or amount of throttle I need at the time. (never use any set RPM's).
My RPM's vary anywhere from idle to full throttle when doing loader work.

kentrodngun · Apr 23, 2006

Wayne, just looked at my owner's manual for my KL122 FEL. They recommend engine RPMs of 1700-2200. Lots of good tips are in the manual for us nimrods who like illustrations and proper procedures associated with lifting, carrying, dumping, loading, peeling, backfilling, etc. Nice to have other info too like part numbers and all the specs including things like raising, lowering & rollback time. Got mine a while back through E-Bay - one of the smart things I did for a change.
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By the way, for those interested in that continuing discussion concerning use of toothbars and whether the manufacturers condone their use, my manual shows an optional manure bucket with a dirt plate and six tines (1" square and 21 3/4" long). So maybe it IS ok.