What size chain should I use to pull large trees

[_RaT_]

Incredible strength on this stuff. I guess Sprectron 12 is the former name and AmSteel is the new name. I'd like to have a length just to have a length. Amsteel_12S

 

[btolle]

You can get the 1/2" AmSteel from Sherrill Arborist Supply , rated minimum breaking strength 22,500 pounds. $2.40 per foot, a little pricey.

Warn and other winch manufacturers are now selling the AmSteel as replacment winch cable and they charge a lot more than $2.40 per foot for it.

I bought 150' of 1/2" StableBraid (10,400 pounds breaking strength) also make by Sampson. Cost me about $125 including shipping.

My tree service man (who has many years of experience) knows rope very well and he said I couldn't break it with my B7510 (21 HP).

The main thing with any rope is to not subject it to "shock" loading. Don't jerk on it with the tractor, use a slow steady pull.

Samson Rope Catalog there is some technical information starting on page 22 that is worthwhile reading as well as information about when a rope should be "retired".

Bill Tolle

 

[slowzuki]

Synthetics are great for self recovery but have poor abrasion resistance. They don't tolerate misuse like wrapping around sharp edges on equipement to pull.

There are two major types, here is a link to my webpage on them, scroll down for the info on which types are appropriate for each use.
http://moose.ca/~slowzuki/slowzuki/body/winch/index.htm

Please don't say chain and wire rope are dangerous in a blanket statement. They all have their correct use. Synthetics are dangerous too if you misuse them.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Chain and wire rope are dangerous. I only use short length of chain around log for abrasion resistance. From there to tractor it's Spectron12 rope. Very light with virtually no stretch. Sure beats dragging heavy chain around and I can coil it uo and hang it from my ROPS without hurting paint or my back Check spec, but I think 1/2" is rated 12Klbs. )</font>

 

[_RaT_]

Ken, that is what I gathered as well especially after reviewing the various websites. There is no question it is great stuff and looks like more suitable rigging for the right situation, but dragging it on the ground over time as well as wrapping hard corners will shorten it's life tremendously. Nonetheless, the Samson website is filled with great information. I downloaded a bunch of PDF's on knot's, rigging for arborist etc. I think I'll stick with my 3/8" chain.

 

[stevenf]

Well Alamo Iron Works was good as their word they called last night and said the 1/2" system 7 chain was in and they would deliver it Fri AM. Its Friday and low and behold I got chain and its 31' all in one continuous piece. I guess they were still feeling bad about their first attempt to sell me chain hence the extra foot of chain. I took it back in the shop and weighed it, it weighs just under 80lbs hopefully I can drag it around to the different trees as carrying it over hill and dale will quickly get old. Now if I can figure out this choker thing I'm set for tommorrow, I think what I'm going to try is attach a large clevis to one end and feed the chain through it to tighten up on the tree as someone mentioned that grab hooks wouldn't stay hooked for long dragging on the ground and I have a big drawbar grabhook to attach to the tractor with. Thanks again for everyones ideas I'm sure many of them will be taken into consideration while I'm dragging trees to the house tommorrow.
Steve

 

[kenta]

I have been logging with a M-5400 and a farmi winch and pulling some 2000 lbs logs once and awhile. Your 90 horse without a winch should pull about anything, so I would get you this advise. I am not a professional logger, but am around them alot and they have the big skidders and take big hitches of half the forest so they have to have good chains. Go to a logging store or ask a professional logger what to buy. That's what I did and the chain was not like ordinary chain. The once hook was square to accept the chain and tighten the log and the other end was a hook to clinch it to a drawbar attachment or lay in the slot of a winch. I would think you would be happy with a farmi or similar winch. Mine has a 12,000 lb pull and can take 4 logs at time, depending on the size of the logs, etc. Anyway, the logger chain s are not sold in hardware stores and sometimes not in chainsaw stores. You need the loggers supply. They are very strong chains. Kenta

 

[Tom4310]

I have some pics to post of the chokers from Bailey's. I have read a few posts about dangerous cables, etc and yes, they will break and snap but so will chains. I live in a logging community in NE Oregon and I talk to loggers, my friends are loggers, and I live next to loggers and ALL of them use chokers and not chains, ropes or straps. Whether they buy locally or order from an online company, they all use choker cables in various configurations and lengths. Yes, the cables will get frayed from rocks but they are much cheaper than chains and gloves (as I am sure all of us wear) will save your hands.

The first is the 12' choker I have and it is 2 years old. I have skidded more logs than I can remember and it is a little frayed but will last many more years.

 

[Tom4310]

Closeup of end. You can get different size ends or have swedged ends to connect to bells on a winch line. I just drop this over a large hook on the drag bar on the tractor.

 

[Tom4310]

The swedged end is brought around the log and inserted into the bell. It lays into the slot and forms a loop. You can bind many logs together as it cinches down and holds them together when you skid. them. Release the tension and it comes apart, unlike most chains.

 

[Tom4310]

Closeup of the swedged end going into the bell. Very easy to do, especially when you are logging in 1-2 feet of snow and ice.