What size for New Holland 2120??

[Zerk]

First tractor, no attachements, other then FEL. Just curious what size my New Holland 2120 diesel can operate. Not really looking to go as big as I can. A few extra passes probably not a big deal. I'll be hooking it up by myself. Figure to get it on blocks and be able to back up to it.

I don't really know what I want yet. Hoping to jump on used ones if I can. Looking to make trails for my 40 acres camp,wooded with rolling hills, some for truck, but mostly for side by side,and dogs.

First two purchases
On my list is box blade. 72"?? which is about width of the tractor.
Brush hog??

For food plots, probably nothing big since it so wooded. Nothing will be that big, and probably just as easy to make an extra pass.
Maybe other cutters,


Yes, I realize this is really vague. Just hoping someone else is sitting inside on crappy day, and has some random thoughs. Thanks.

 

[George2615]

Most attachments purchased should be close or slightly larger than the width of the tractor. One exception would be a Back Blade. For a 72" wide tractor you should get at least an 84" BB so it covers your tracks when pulling it with the blade angled.

 

[Zerk]

I was worried more about power. Never thought about the back blade being at an angle. It is on my list too. Thanks.

 

[George2615]

The 2120 has a 4cyl Shibaura engine. It has plenty of power to run 6' implements.
My XR3037HC has 36.2 HP and I use nothing smaller than 6' implements. Rear tires are 66" wide.

 

[fried1765]

I was worried more about power. Never thought about the back blade being at an angle. It is on my list too. Thanks.

I have a Ford 1920 (baby brother to yours), and have my wheels purposely set as narrow as possible (58") to accommodate my KK 60" tiller ( rim centers can be adjusted to provide up to 66" wide tire track ).
I have an 84" KK back blade.
Be certain to buy a back blade that not only tilts, and angles, but can also be offset both left and right.
A wide rear blade is the best, if you want to keep a driveway crowned, and pull gravel back in from the driveway edge.
The wide (with offset) blade will allow you to, reach out well beyond your wheels, much the same as an industrial road grader can.

 

[Zerk]

On the note of crowing a road, I just read about doing whole road on angle, rather then crown.

Some people “crown” a road, that is, they make the center of the road bed higher than the sides letting the water drain from the middle of the road to either side. We have found making a crown hard to do, especially on the steep grades of our mountainous road. In fact, when we agreed with the forest service to maintain our road, they gave us pages and pages of instructions for minimum standards for a single lane fair weather road, and they recommended the side to side slope drainage. Their recommendations call for an outslope of one-fourth inch per foot of road width. At this rate a thirty foot wide road would be seven and one half inches higher on the high side than on the low side. This doesn’t look or feel like much slope when you drive down the road, but it is enough to force the water to run off the side instead of following the road bed down the grade and cutting ruts.

How to maintain a dirt road | Backwoods Home Magazine

 

[fried1765]

On the note of crowing a road, I just read about doing whole road on angle, rather then crown.

Some people “crown” a road, that is, they make the center of the road bed higher than the sides letting the water drain from the middle of the road to either side. We have found making a crown hard to do, especially on the steep grades of our mountainous road. In fact, when we agreed with the forest service to maintain our road, they gave us pages and pages of instructions for minimum standards for a single lane fair weather road, and they recommended the side to side slope drainage. Their recommendations call for an outslope of one-fourth inch per foot of road width. At this rate a thirty foot wide road would be seven and one half inches higher on the high side than on the low side. This doesn’t look or feel like much slope when you drive down the road, but it is enough to force the water to run off the side instead of following the road bed down the grade and cutting ruts.

How to maintain a dirt road | Backwoods Home Magazine

There certainly are situations where a cross road slope can be the best for drainage, especially at some points on a hillside road, however, surface erosion will be more of a problem with a cross slope design.
The idea behind a crowned road is to have the shortest possible distance for the water to travel, thus keeping the runoff water velocity, and subsequent surface erosion to a minimum.
The three most important road/driveway considerations are: Ditches! Ditches! Ditches!
Another important consideration is ...GRAVEL!
Even using "pit run" gravel (relatively cheap) is VERY helpful, although screened gravel (not washed) is definitely the best.
I have a 2200 'x 12' long gravel driveway with lots of screened gravel, and my neighbor says it looks like a highway.
I am a former highway design Civil Engineer, So..oo..oo, I just cannot help myself! I think I may be a driveway fanatic!

 

[Zerk]

I don't have gravel yet. If I run a box blade down trail, will this just create a bunch of loose dirt?

For me idea is just to level it out so I can get the riding mower over it.

 

[Zerk]

Any good sites or discussions on trails for beginners? Up until now I have just been clearing land, not shaping it.

 

[fried1765]

I don't have gravel yet. If I run a box blade down trail, will this just create a bunch of loose dirt?

For me idea is just to level it out so I can get the riding mower over it.

A box blade is PERFECT for leveling, but it is not good for shaping (crowning) a driveway.
For your described use, a box blade is what you need!
The soil that you move will be loose, but will compact naturally with repeated rains.